I should have clarified my statement a bit. The car I have NT01s on is pretty much a full on race car. No insulation, full tube frame, heims on all suspension parts... heck, at idle its got 96db coming out of the exhaust and full throttle is something like 108db. So through all that, I cant hear the tires one bit. Just lots of clunks and rattles. It also weighs about 2000 lbs so that might help cut down on tire noise too. So to me, the tires are the most quiet thing on the car haha.

Edit - Video to show what I mean.

 

I hate when you post things related to your bug because it's so gaw damn cool...

 

Sorry, I will stop posting about it haha. Its getting sold soon anyways.

 

Last year when my Nittos were new, I actually cut a track day short because I thought the car was broken. Even had someone ride with me on the street outside the track and they agreed it sounded like the t-case. I wasn’t happy when I drove the car the next day on Michelins and it was back to normal!

 

Gotcha. I was misunderstanding. I've set my camber to *recommended* then adjust tire pressure up or down to get the tire to roll where I want, using the arrows (what was recommended to me years ago). Then, depending on tire wear, adjust camber. Knowing what I know now, I've been running too little pressure, all the way around, and that would probably explain why they are turning blue on the shoulders
Bummer.. because the car grips a lot better with the lower pressures

I haven't noticed on track, but this is hilarious.

I'll admit. I was scared as ****. I thought for sure I was towing the car home haha.

 

Yea if the outside shoulders are bluing at the edge you're overheating them which most of the time means you don't have enough camber. The lower pressure may feel faster (or maybe even is) but that's because it's bandaiding another issue in your suspension setup.

 

Once you get more camber you can run less pressure. The NT01’s are way better with less pressure. They feel like *** at higher pressures.

i usually start the day at 24-25 cold and aim for 35-37 hot off the track.

They also feel wayyyyyyy better response wise when slightly undersized on the wheel, Japanese tuning style

Keep in mind I carry a little bit more weight around the track than you CT9A guys...

 

Already have an alignment scheduled

I'm sure if I'd remember to check pressures once they cool down, I'm in the 28f/26r+- area, so pretty similar. Car is 3150 and tires are 275s, if that makes a difference. As for sizing, I'm on a 10.5 wheel, so not sure how that compares side-wall-wise... I went with 10.5 instead of 10 so I could get a bit of the fitment you are talking about. I like how the cars transition with a teeny, tiny bit of stretch the sidewall.

 

Same setup as me. 275's on 18x10.5

I haven't weighed my 10 yet but it's the heaviest version with sunroof, leather and "extra" sound deadening so I'm sure it's in the high 34XXlbs.

 

I know this is a completely different type of turn and I have a lot less lateral load on the tire... but the difference in sidewalls and camber made me chuckle. I'd go faster.. but this turn doesn't like that, very much

 

Just catching up here. man u guys talk heaps

Basically you need to be checking your tyre temps across the tyre and relating it to pressure. Like dallas said its hard to get a real accurate measure of this but what we do is go and do say 5 full pace laps, then do a full pace in lap. come straight into the pit lane and have somebody check temps inside mid and outside and also pressures. Your temp will generally dictate your pressures but most tyres have a hot pressure they like to be at and its normally around 30psi. Ideally you want to be seeing around a 10deg c temp difference across the tyre from inside to outside with the inside hotter. and you want the median temperature up around 70deg C.

If you have real even temp across the tyre then u dont have enough camber. if the inside is way hotter you have too much. etc etc etc.

But you need to already be in the ballpark with your alignment settings really before this even becomes useful. sounds like lots of you arent running enough camber up front. and you want neutral toe or toe out on the rear also.

 

Toe out in the rear is a bandaid. It ruins corner exit accel capability and lowers max lateral grip in exchange for reducing understeer. Better to increase rear spring rate and keep some toe in.

 

On the Evo front, Ive only had 2 tires that seemed to like in the low 30s range. The Kumho V710 (known for its crazy stiff sidewall and Ive learn a lot since Ive run one so I could certainly have been under pressure on them) and Goodyear Eagle RS (dot slick). All the other street tires and Hoosiers Ive run have all made more grip in the 35-40psi range.

And we've tried back to back running them 4psi low, 4psi high, and back to nominal. Low pressure will make you think theyre faster but they end up being more progressive. High pressure ends up with more peak grip but a much sharper break away.

We are probably also a bit heavier than your car (Bee-radd) with front carrying 900lbs at each tire and rear 575lbs. When it comes to hoosiers, it seems about 4% of total weight at a corner is close to optimum with variance coming from total tire size and if its stretch, squeezed, parallel. So my 315 on a 12" wheel, that would be 900 * 0.04 = 36psi. 35-36 is what seems to be the best balance between breakaway and grip.

You may also notice the rear would be 575 * 23 = 23psi. Yet we run the rear a couple psi over what the front runs at. That sort of indicates how much overhead their is in rear grip we have if we're over inflating the rear to get it to move. But the reality is the reason we need to run that much rear pressure is because we really need to life a rear tire to get the car to turn the front and not just slide the rear. Once you lift an inside rear think about what tires are now carrying the load that inside rear use to carry.