I don't offer those locks for the FA coils. I know Professional Awesome has them to lock at min or max. What is keeping you from adjusting at the tophat?

 

the tophat probably has 1degree adjustment. At max lock its already almost vertical, I'm thinking giving it more angle will smoothen its operation. it's quiet 'bumpy' so I just wanted to see if it will have some impact

 

Tight fit. I wonder how much more inboard you could get away with, given that tires flex inward under cornering. I'm not sure how much inward deflection you'd get 180 degrees opposite of the contact patch, though.

Seems like +45 wheels would be ideal. Eyeballing your photos it looks like that might even be enough to get it to tuck under compression.

Every time I remove the rear spring and cycle the rear wheel upward, I'm surprised by how much the rears can tuck under compression. I've got my 10.5+38 and 275 RC-1s tucking completely without the spring, but I don't know if I could make those giant 295s fit. At least not without going much more inboard.

 

Yup I've mentioned +45 would be the great. or some adjustable of the top control arm if available

 

You guys probably know this already, but I'm just realizing this. I'm trying to max out camber from the tophat and just noticed the wheel/tire setup don't fit well anymore. So keeping my front struts vertical as possible seems to be the key

just FYI. I'm still trying to figure out how to get that extra caster from the tophat

 

Use the camber bolt set at max positive and then use your camber plates for adjustment. This will not change the tire to strut clearance.

If you have the camber bolts flipped to negative camber, that will bring the wheel/tire closer to the strut.

 

I initially set it up with max camber from bolt and tophat at zero adjustment. It cleared 99.9%. Trying out max camber from tophat (adds caster i believe) and a little from the camber bolt, the issue is not the tire-strut clearance but steering/full lock clearance ... the effective caster change gets the tire closer to the the backside fender lining and the tire now hits the frame. the tire seems to be sweeping instead of spinning on the contact patch

 

Only at full-lock? just send it. If you are at full lock when driving you have other issues.

 

haha yeah. i'll test it out, . just want to see the impact of additional caster
just fyi to those who's struggling to fit 275+

 

Found the rub with previous alignment settings. this bracket scrapes the very tip of the wheel lip


I moved some camber to the tophat so now it clears the bracket. I just figured out how to use the PA camber locks + standard camber bolts

 

I'm sure it's been covered, but I ran 18x11+38 with a 275 NT01. There was a slight stretch. I wasn't a fan. I also rubbed the rear fenders despite all the pulling/hammering and rolling I could do. The fronts ate the fender liners beyond recognition since I have PSRS.
TLDR: It was really, really tough to run that size wheel. People run even wider, you just have to be really, really committed and ready to cut stuff
I now run an 18x10.5 +38 with the same tire and the car is MUCH happier.

 

yup I went thru a number of fender linings with wheels setups that tucks and goes low, so I'm setting up with stiffer springs/stockish ride height + additional clearance i can make from relocating oil cooler and ACD + pushing in the fender linings in. I may have some room for some rake

 

I bent the metal portion then went to town with a heat gun. They ended up being so deformed, they barely fit. To the point that I was wondering if they were ruing the airflow path.
But.. they mostly cleared unless at full lock.

 

see here that I have moved the fender lining holes a few times. need to zip tie them too so they dont get blown in at track speeds

 

18x10 +38 with 265s was surprisingly easy to fit.

The same wheels with big 275s was a challenge. The extra height makes a huge difference.

Getting the front/rear positioning correct was key for me. PSRS, camber/caster plates, and Dallas' control arms combined for enough adjustment. Getting the fender liners tied back and molded out of the way helped.

Now that I've got it figured out, I'm tempted to try 18x11 with wider tires. This setup wouldn't pay off for NASA classing, though. The wider 275 tires on 10.5" wheels already won't clear the tire template tool and I don't think stepping up to 285s or 295s would be worth the penalty.