How are the cars placed in classes? Like what is the tts bracket and how is your car classified to race in it with vettes? Hp-to- weight ratio, engine output, etc?

 

Correct; H/P to weight, and then you take/give points for tires and a handful of other items. You can get Vette's to Civics' and everything in between.

TTR/TTS/TTU are the least complex classes to complete in if you have done more than just the basic stuff to your car.

The other classes up to TTA are like watching your weight and counting calories as most anything you do adds points to the equation and is factored into the H/P to weight ratio.

The real trick is to a get nice big chunky "area under the curve". The best set up would be one that produced a ton of TQ as TQ is not in the classing equation.

I asked Mike to look for a good condition 4G64 block for a rainy day....

 

Keep us posted. Love to see the car run!!

 

Setting up triple adj suspension is going to take a bit of time to get right. I have a few friends that have worked thru the learning process that can help out with any questions. You do have top of the line stuff tho, so once you get a good handle on things, you will be able to make them do whatever you want.

I've been thinking lately about starting to run NASA events myself. My car should fit into TTS also I'm thinking. I actually think a EVO might stand a chance against the vette's in TTS. At least on some of the tighter tracks.

Was this recently you bought the tires from AMS? I saw a thread a while ago about them. Then I went back to look again and it wasn't there. I was thinking of calling them and trying to get a few sets of the R1's myself. I'm guessing your running the 285-18's then?

Let me kno if you need a hand with anything.

 

Here's the tire thread https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ve...ires-sale.html

Not sure what they have left but the pricing was very inexpensive and included the shipping. I got 265's as I wasn't sure what wheel size I was going to run at the time, and anything under 275's doesn't cost points!

It would great to see you out in TTS! BeaveRun, along with the events at Summit and Mid-O, all are within striking distance

 

hey guys...well i think i finally got the itch to buy cams...but wasnt really sure everything i needed to make everything run smoothly...my current mods are ams tbe, ams fmic, ams licp....i was thinking about going with gsc s1 mivec cams, ams head studs, gsc springs, boost controller, aem wideband....i have a ix mr with 32k on it...stock clutch is doing fine at the moment...i dont launch the car or beat on it like crazy...should i be planning on a new clutch with these mods?? thankksss

 

Local gurus, I need your vast Evo knowledge.

Got a leaking drivers side axle/axle seal. Replaced the axle seal 2 nights ago, but alas I still have a slow leak. Upon inspection of the axle itself, everything appears structurally fine, nothing remarkable or out of the ordinary. I can't for the life of me figure it out.

Google search brings up enough results to make me think this is a somewhat common occurance, however nobody can provide a definative answer just mere speculation.

Any thoughts?

 

Check the lock rings on the stub shaft...if it doesnt lock in the axle shaft can move in and out...causing leak.........

 

mike i was hoping you'd chime in.

i had shep build my tcase with a wavetrac diff. i reinstalled the tcase issue free, but im beginning to think the stub shaft may have a little excess play on it. i cant be sure there is excess play because i didnt feel for play before i pulled it out the first time with a slide hammer.

the axles are definatley locked on the lock rings because i need a pry bar to get the axle off the stub shaft.

the metal cup on the end of the axle which mates to the stub shaft is perfectly round, no burrs, no scratches, etc.

ill take one more look at it, then i may bring it in to you to get an experts opinion.

you think you'd be able to check it out mike?

 

If the axles been replaced, check the actual Tcase seal could be nicked. The axle is a sealed unit and shouldn't leak ever, check if its leaking from above down on it.. The axel i think has a gray thicker fluid in it.

 

I think you have the wrong picture Eric. I'm leaking gear oil (turquoise color redline shockproof) where the axle meets the transmission on the drivers side. I thought it was the seal but it appears as though I have a bigger issue

 

Is there any free software out there that I can pull the code for a service engine soon light? I had this happen about a month ago. I started the car up and it came on. Took it to Baierl and Mike said it was a speed sensor warning. He reset it. I haven't driven the car much since. So I started it up today just to get it running and it threw the SES light again. I guess it's the same code, but it would be nice to confirm before running down again.

 

I thought you got the tactrix cable,, use ecu scan to view the code....

 

Ok , that stub shaft slides all the way through the trans and locks into the new wave trac...if the retaining ring on the stub shaft is to soft(worn out) the stub shaft can be pulled in and out from the trans...Now that stub shaft shouldnt have any resistance on it unless there are outside issues....some eamples bad cv joint causing binding,ball joints control bushings(rear) worn, motor mounts still rubber allowing the engine,trans to lift or the rear mount is loose ...What happen to me : torn the body where the cradle mounts to the body,,,so hard launches the cradle was jumping all over the place...the only real syptom was a leaking axle seal...

 

Okay, I didn't get a chance to pull the axle back off this morning but I really studied my passenger side axle and it's snugged up much closer to the tcase than my drivers side axle is to my trans.

In other words the axle is not in all the way or my stub shaft isn't in all the way. I don't really feel too comfortable hammering the bejesus out of either piece, but somethings not correctly seated.