well guys.. its been nice knowing you. I might not be able to talk soon after i receive more points.

 

Wut for man??

hahaha nevermind I seen it , ahhahahahahaa

 

I got the cast piece with the jet coating... My only problem with it is that the jet coating is only suppost to be rated at like 1500 degrees. The manifold gets to be like 2200 easy.

I haven't really thought a whole lot about the boost. Probably in the 21-23lbs on pump, and whatever Nate thinks is best on race gas. I am certainly open to the thoughts and suggestions/ stories and experiences of those who have been through this. I am still really excited about getting all this **** in my car before I do all my research about the details...

 

Did you have a leak or did you do it to get a new TB? I have been hearing about a lot of people having the same problem as me. If it was because of a leak, which seals did you go with? It looks to me like WORKS makes some good ones. Also did it work?

 

Basic bolt on's and cams? Geeze! Do you know what kind of cams? I think i found a decent deal on some HKS 272's. Dont know if id want to do 280's on a stock turbo....

 

actually it wasn't me. it was speedjunkyz. he had a leak, and got the works tb seals. he said the directions were a bit vague, so they ended up in backwards.

others have replaced their tb seals with the works ones on here and i haven't heard any complaints.

 

We did my old VIII seals with the works seals and they did just fine.

Getting the TB off is easy as pie.

1. Make sure you have all the right tools. All of them. This job requires a couple very specific items. I would get a brand new #2 screw driver to get the TB apart. Some of those screws could EASILY be stripped as they are lock tighted on the tb, like the flap.

2. The shaft seats themselves only really make sense going in one way. How anyone messed that up is beyond me. Just be careful.

3. You use a marker to mark the tps but to make sure its right you can use your laptop and tactrix cable to adjust it after it is on the car. Travis and I did it that way. Very helpful.

4. Have fun. Take your time.

Here is the writeup on how to replace them.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...ht=shaft+seals

 

Skip the head studs unless you are pulling the head. Mike put mine in with the 1x1 method and things were fine but I don't think I ever needed them.

If possible, get JAM no tick lifters installed. Cams will increase the odds of having lifter tick and that noise just sucks.

Get the GSC S1 cams or HKS 272 or 280 cams. I got BC 272 and I was extremely happy with them but latter I wouldn't have minded the extra go power of the larger cam. They're all very nice.

My car never stalled or anything with the AC on with the bc 272 though. Just a nice lopey idle.

I would skip cam gears unless you find a nice cheap set.

My car ran(and I assume still does) 24lbs on pump just fine.


Buy a cheap reflash to drive it home on. TTP sells them for $50.00. This way you can enjoy the car straight away and get the power dialed in latter.

 

Found more stuff I forgot was sitting in the garage.

ARP Head Stud Kit

207-4203 Mitsubishi 4G63 1994 and up
11mm hsk

Bought these with the stage 5, but never installed.

Paid $110, sell for $70

 

Just thinking about the 10% difference i would say on the wyotech dyno he would have put down about 425 whp and 440 lbs tq

He has a FMIC, intake, boost controller ,exhaust and COSWORTH 9 cams. I am told between them and the GSC2's they make the most power for the 9's. HKS has a slightly lower lift and duration i believe and have not been proven. If you are interested in a good price on some cosworth cams hit me up in a PM.. I can get you a price plus a price installed and tuned!

let me know
eric.

 

So, i have been missing from some the EVOm lately. YOU SOLD YOUR WHIP!!?? What did you decide to purchase in place of it? thinking of getting an evo again?

 

HAHAHAHA - So that means it would have 10% more power?? Wyotech is not that much higher than SBR, and no matter what, the tune is the same.

 

I highly doubt anyone with bolt on's is making 425 whp... Guys with greens and meth have trouble making that.

 

I will be doing mine this weekend (I think) - mine are leaking really really bad. I ordered the mach V seals, they are a nitrile seal and dsm's use this type of seal with great success.

The works seals are supposed to be good, I installed a set for another owner here and they worked out good (his leak went away) but I am an anti anything Works guy and will not give them my money.....

Mach V sells them for 11.00 + shipping

Install is rather easy - take your time and dont rush.

 

Long story why I sold it...just say you do things for your kids all the time it seems. Bought a Honda Civic...traded in the EVO. I am now driving a "WRX" (my son's)...of all cars

...but his is cool to drive.

I am actively looking for a normal daily driver...and then something to race that will put me in the 9's or 10's. Probably an old Fox body mustang.

The problem is...I was looking at BMW 335i/335xi's on Saturday...they make some nice power...and with a flash/piggyback ECU, they run low 12's and some high 11's.