wouldnt mind beating some R1's in spray

But to be serious, its not going to be done till march probably.. Been working many many hours overtime.. 60+ per week but ran into all kinds of rent issues at school and thanks to other people not paying they want all the rent up front!!! so there goes a quick $2200

looking for 650-700 on C16. i aim high, but if i dont hit it i wont be upset.

If anyone wants to pitch in a few thousand bucks i will take you for a ride when i am done, in fact i will let you pick the license plate slogo! lol lol

 

Jeremy few questions, looking into prices on things to possibly do hill climbs in the future cause it looks like alot fun. I know you don't want to skimp on safety but do you think this would pass ok as a fire suit, it's cheap and they have fairly big sizes for my fat ***...lol
http://wescoperformance.stores.yahoo...drivsuit1.html

Also do you have any idea if or when beaver run is having another time attack on the go cart track?

Thanks

Mike

 

Mike that suit will work just fine except for you would need fireproof long underwear then. You need at least a 2 layer suit. its nice to have just a one layer as they are much cooler in the heat. If your interested in getting one hit me up on PM. I can usually find good deals on suits thru my father.

As for the kart track. Sept 2! This is a perfect in between of racing. Much more fun the auto-x and not quite as scary or dangerous as a open lap day. I highly recomend doing this to anyone. Its a blast!

 

http://www.racepa.com/content/index.php?topic=5096.0

$75 and you need standard autocross safety equiptment (meaning pretty much just a helmet , and long sleeve shirt/pants.

you can pre register here:

http://www.myautoevents.com/pls/mae/...sevent_id=7953

hope to see you out there!

 

[QUOTE=jerdeitzel;4629574]Mike that suit will work just fine except for you would need fireproof long underwear then. You need at least a 2 layer suit. its nice to have just a one layer as they are much cooler in the heat. If your interested in getting one hit me up on PM. I can usually find good deals on suits thru my father.
[QUOTE]

I may hit you on the suit jeremy, I'm just concerned about size.

 

Thanks for the info justin, I believe a few friends and I are signing up. I'm not use
to a course this tight but should be fun regardless.

 

Well guys, on a Dynojet (TT) and some fine tuning I threw down 342 HP and 350 Ft-lbs. My first untouched run with a few new mods (10.5 HS, O2 H, Ported manifold, test pipe) was disgusting. I lost power! But after some tweaks, it got bumped up by 100! What do you guys think? 80 degrees and 80 percent humidity.

 

Hey Eric, why such a small turbo? I would've thought you'd go bigger! Haha

 

I would be thrilled with those #'s on an 80% humidity day.

EVODan I think went to TT has the same mods save HKS 272 I think he put down right about 350/350 on their dyno?

My car was pretty fast for a few months. Now I'll have to hang out in the slow lane and let you guys pass.

 

Yeah I called Dan. Similar results. On Dan's day it was even hotter than mine. He outdid me in the HP and I had an edge in ft-lbs. I guess that's the differences in the HKS 272's vs the GSC S1's. Or the different downpipes. (HKS for me) Kind of weird. I guess the S1's do make good midrange power like Greg said. Mark was pretty surprised I still had the stock clutch in the car. He told me not for long!

Dan and I were actually trying to figure out the effects of humidity alone on a vehicle, power wise. Is it sigificant? I would think humidity would be a possible power adder due to moisture having a cooling effect. Correct me if I'm wrong?

 

Is this the same dyno (dynojet) from your first time around? If so that is a great improvment! because you were under 300 before right?

I would be happy with those numbers on pump gas, stock turbo, and temps.

 

heat and humidity greatly effect a turbo car......High heat and humidity i see it costing you power because I always seem to run better on a cool night (obviously). I found this in a hot rod article, so from what this says high humidity can cost you performance.

Heat Kills

The next most important portion of our automotive atmospheric equation is temperature. This is relatively easy to understand—hot air is less dense than cold air. There will be more oxygen in one cubic foot of air at 60-degrees F than there will be at 90-degrees F. You’ve probably experienced this because engines make less horsepower as the temperature increases. That’s why drag racers like to qualify at night when the air is usually cooler.

Wet Weather

The final major component of atmospheric conditions is humidity, or vapor pressure. Humidity refers to the amount of water in the air and is expressed most often as relative humidity in percent. Relative humidity means that at a given temperature, there is a maximum amount of water that the air can hold. For example, 40 percent humidity means that the current conditions contain 40 percent of the total amount of water the air can hold. Since water doesn’t burn, greater humidity means this water will displace a certain amount of oxygen and that this water in the cylinder will tend to quench a portion of the combustion process. The bottom line is reduced horsepower.

 

Good call Travis, I figured you'd know. I did know that temperature changes power, but not the humidity factor. (For every 10 degree drop in ambient air temperature, you gain an approximate 2% HP. The more powerful your car, the more it will affect you.)

 

It is a different dyno and with completely different parts and tunes, so it's very hard to compare. Like Steel city Dan always says, trap speeds tell the true story.

 

well maybe a 42R next year lol