10 10 10 10 10 - You nailed it!

 

I will be in McKees Rocks on Saturday through Monday for the Steelers game. Go Steelers!!!

 

Yea I have worked with SBR and they aren't that organized. I ordered parts off there website and they said they were in stock and then got a call an hour later saying they aren't in stock. Then update your F'ing website. BR is really good and down here in VA.....Nick at DTMotorsports in one of the best tuners around!

 

A proper tuning tool that can properly load the car is hard to beat. Such as an eddy current load bearing dyno such as a mustang. It is virtually identical to street.

I would prefer to set my car up on a dyno then back it up via the street. Not saying street tuning isnt effective. It just is alot simpler being strapped down and do your tuning thing. make adjustments make a pull repeat process.

Call me a dyno b!tch but I do like to see before and after results and I will pay for them. Of course its only good if you are using same dyno

 

Hahaha its like an epidemic. Sh!tz is everywhere. you can talk to people from PA to Cali to asshats across the pond. You will find just about the same opinion of this fantastic establishment

 

Yea it really pissed me off because I paid next day shipping and I need the parts for my car to move and I had to wait a week and half.

 

I can agree with tuning on a dyno like mustang is def. nice if you have one available, if setup right they are very close to real world. I mean you will have to fine tweak it on the street and make adjustments at the track to get the most out of it. Not to many people pull a car off the dyno and immediately go fast, the fast guys are making adjustments every run and seeing the mph's go up and et's come down.

The best benefit of the dyno is the before/after numbers so u can watch the changes being good or bad, other than that it doesn't mean much to me. I use datalog lab and when used correctly it can be very effective, I have also got in the habit of calculating logging seconds to see how much time i pick up from change to change. I always try and start around the same rpm and end at the same rpm to get the best guess I can to if my changes are doing good.

I recently did a 1-4 gear pull and my log seconds at the time i went wot in 1st till the time i lifted in 4th (11 mph to 108 mph) was 11.7 sec. That also included shift time and the delay for the car to spool in 1st and take off, I was very pleased with that with where I am at current tune wise, more adjustments to be made as im learning to tune the new fuel....

 

Or you order a turbo that you researched and you specifically picked out because it was the best match for the car / motor. You could have gotten it online but decided to give a certain company your business. After 2 weeks of waiting for an off the shelf garrett turbo it was the wrong one, it was a t3/t4 that I was told no you want this much better.

After arguing for a while it was sent back and another 2 weeks I had the correct turbo - what a waste of time. Not to mention the motor I was going to have built there sat for 4 months untouched, finally i picked it up sent it to a place in State College and it was done in a week. This was all for my old turbo crx I built.....

This was many many years ago - i see not much has gotten better, lol.

 

Absolutely Truth

I also used the logging seconds with the AEM to try and calculate wether or not my adjustments were working or not. And obviously you need to work with the same strip of tarmac and rpm start stop points.

And hey you always need to keep looking for more power. When I would go to the track I would already have a few proven altered maps that I would load to see if it would make more steam on the topend.

As you would know Just because the map looks good no knock and it pulls clean on the street dosnt always mean it is actually making more power.

I had a what I thought was going to be a good meth map to run with. I loaded it made some pulls and logged on the street . All looked good no knock and pushing 28 psi. I go to the track the car is down on power with clean logs no knock nothing, boost as flat as can be 28 psi all the way out.

I say F that pull the fuse on the meth turn the boost back down and load my pump map the car picks up 3mph right away.

So even though the meth map looked good on the street it really didnt add up to much at the track. Of course I ended up tweaking things to work with the meth and ended up picking up a few more mph.

 

He also the one that tuned my car runs great. DTM. Is also where the guy i bought my car from got all his work done.

 

He is one of the best in the area and on the East Coast at tuning Evo's!!

 

i f*cking hate changing the oil on these cars.

 

on the evo??!!!



come on

 

no. on the toyota prius i just traded my evo for yesterday.

 

well that might be a more difficult car to do it on over the evo...

here are the 10, count em 10 steps i take.

1) turn steering wheel.
2) lay down on ground
3) put socket on oil drain plug
4) slide oil pan under car
5) take oil drain plug out
6) reach over and spin off filter
7) stand up, wipe off hands listen for the oil to stop dripping
8) pull oil pan back out, and spin on the new filter
9) take off oil cap filling it up with the oil of choice
10) put oil cap back on, check level and call it a day

If you notice, there are no jacks, jack stands, or removal of under tray

all in all it takes me about 10 minutes. or the time that gravity takes to make the oil fall out of the pan.