Worcester/Boston Social Thread
Oh ok. Well if you want, I have an extra steering column cover I can give you since I didn't drill the holes where you wanted them.
Marshall i cant decided between 46" and 52". I fear the 52" will just not look right. it is quite large (thatswhatshesaid). I did the math and with the price difference the TV is still the same price per inch
I got a quick question for you guys. What insurance company do you guys have? This month is my last insurance payment and in April my insurance expires and I wanna put my car insurance under my own name. I got a quote from progressive and its $1600 every 6 months which is cheaper than what im paying right now with the car under my parents name and much cheaper than the $5500 a year that I was quoted from the same company with the car under my name. I'm also thinking of refinancing the car to try and drop a year or two off of my loan.
Last edited by 19DB794; Jan 18, 2009 at 03:35 PM.
I got a quick question for you guys. What insurance company do you guys have? This month is my last insurance payment and in April my insurance expires and I wanna put my car insurance under my own name. I got a quote from progressive and its $1600 every 6 months which is cheaper than what im paying right now with the car under my parents name and much cheaper than the $5500 a year that I was quoted from the same company with the car under my name. I'm also thinking of refinancing the car to try and drop a year or two off of my loan.
Unfortunately I don't have a garage. It stays in my driveway. I live with my parents but once I move out and get my own house I'm definitely buying something with a garage.
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From: Northborough, MA
EDIT: i do think on-street vs off-street parking matters tho
Last edited by Paulnsx; Jan 18, 2009 at 04:31 PM.
WOW speaking of suspension geometry - just ran across this accidentally.
I will try to explain where I am coming from.
Lowering the car is important for many reasons for both road racing and drag racing. Lower center of gravity and aero advantages are at the top of the list. The issue with lowering the car is: you have just messed up your suspension geometry.
Your caster, camber and tow all change as the suspension moves through its travel. This is factory engineered. It is supposed to change to help the car turn and maintain tire contact with the road. Lowering the car changes all this as your suspension is now starting its travel in an area of the camber / tow curve that was supposed to be designated for turning. You have also changed your roll center which changes how side loads affect the suspension. The more you lower the car, the further outside factory specs you get.
The best way to lower the car and keep the factory engineered suspension geometry is to move the inboard suspension points.
Here is a quick MS Paint drawing to show visually what I am talking about. This depicts what happens to the front control arm in a lowered car.
As you can see, moving the inboard suspension point up after lowering positions the control arm as it was designed by the factory.
On both the 8/9 and X, the front suspension mounting points are on the subframe. This makes keeping factory suspension geometry easy when moving them up.
When you get to the rear subframes, the 8/9 have a control arm mounted to the body in addition to the trailing arm. This makes keeping factory suspension impossible without moving the point on the body.
The X rear suspension has all mounting points on the subframe with the exception of the trailing arm. This makes it much easier to move suspension points.
I know this doesn't mean much to those that are solely interested in going straight but if we are going to put the effort into building subframes, it makes sense to try to cover all bases.
While on the subject of drag racing, there would be a benefit in eliminating the factory camber curve. The issue is more so in the rear of the Evo as the front camber does not change much. In the rear of the car, camber changes during a launch generally pull the outside of the tires off the ground limiting traction. This is especially prevalent when using stiff sidewall radials over soft sidewall slicks. The way to eliminate the camber curve is to run more equal length control arms. Obviously a rear subframe for drag racing would differ from one for road racing.
Sorry this got so long and thanks to anybody that read the whole reply. Basically, I am interested in hearing what is important to people (besides weight reduction) when it comes to a custom tubular subframe.
Lowering the car is important for many reasons for both road racing and drag racing. Lower center of gravity and aero advantages are at the top of the list. The issue with lowering the car is: you have just messed up your suspension geometry.
Your caster, camber and tow all change as the suspension moves through its travel. This is factory engineered. It is supposed to change to help the car turn and maintain tire contact with the road. Lowering the car changes all this as your suspension is now starting its travel in an area of the camber / tow curve that was supposed to be designated for turning. You have also changed your roll center which changes how side loads affect the suspension. The more you lower the car, the further outside factory specs you get.
The best way to lower the car and keep the factory engineered suspension geometry is to move the inboard suspension points.
Here is a quick MS Paint drawing to show visually what I am talking about. This depicts what happens to the front control arm in a lowered car.
As you can see, moving the inboard suspension point up after lowering positions the control arm as it was designed by the factory.
On both the 8/9 and X, the front suspension mounting points are on the subframe. This makes keeping factory suspension geometry easy when moving them up.
When you get to the rear subframes, the 8/9 have a control arm mounted to the body in addition to the trailing arm. This makes keeping factory suspension impossible without moving the point on the body.
The X rear suspension has all mounting points on the subframe with the exception of the trailing arm. This makes it much easier to move suspension points.
I know this doesn't mean much to those that are solely interested in going straight but if we are going to put the effort into building subframes, it makes sense to try to cover all bases.
While on the subject of drag racing, there would be a benefit in eliminating the factory camber curve. The issue is more so in the rear of the Evo as the front camber does not change much. In the rear of the car, camber changes during a launch generally pull the outside of the tires off the ground limiting traction. This is especially prevalent when using stiff sidewall radials over soft sidewall slicks. The way to eliminate the camber curve is to run more equal length control arms. Obviously a rear subframe for drag racing would differ from one for road racing.
Sorry this got so long and thanks to anybody that read the whole reply. Basically, I am interested in hearing what is important to people (besides weight reduction) when it comes to a custom tubular subframe.
So I changed the policy around and now its down to $3,000 a year. I basically copied my current insurance. How do you guys feel about having $20,000 each person / $40,000 each accident for Compulsory bodily injury? I'm only asking because it was set to $100,000/$300,000 by progressive. Also what does it mean under when I have a $500 deductible under collision but it also says with waiver of deductible?
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i happen to have my policy in front of me bc i just changed it. this is how im covered. i'm not really sure what would be best for you. whether you own a house or not is a big factor (i dont own one).
required:
bodily injury to others: 20k/40k
personal injury protection: 8k
bodily injury caused by an uninsured auto : 100k/300k
damage to someone else's property: 100k
optional:
optional bodily injury to others: 100k/300k
bodily injury caused by an underinsured auto: 100k/300k
my collision deductible is 1000 and my comprehensive is 500. fyi, when i lived in worcester, my insurance was 2700 for just the evo... then i raised my collision deductible to 1000 and i saved about 500 a year (it went to 21xx).
fyi i have amica, and i love them.
if i were you i would ask the agent to try lowering each portion of the policy and tell you how much it will drop you're premium. just lower everything you can until its not worth it (i.e. it doesn't drop your premium very much). just ask them to make sure what you choose is "reasonable" for your situation (i.e. you dont lower something too much). this is how i found the 500 savings i mentioned above.
required:
bodily injury to others: 20k/40k
personal injury protection: 8k
bodily injury caused by an uninsured auto : 100k/300k
damage to someone else's property: 100k
optional:
optional bodily injury to others: 100k/300k
bodily injury caused by an underinsured auto: 100k/300k
my collision deductible is 1000 and my comprehensive is 500. fyi, when i lived in worcester, my insurance was 2700 for just the evo... then i raised my collision deductible to 1000 and i saved about 500 a year (it went to 21xx).
fyi i have amica, and i love them.
if i were you i would ask the agent to try lowering each portion of the policy and tell you how much it will drop you're premium. just lower everything you can until its not worth it (i.e. it doesn't drop your premium very much). just ask them to make sure what you choose is "reasonable" for your situation (i.e. you dont lower something too much). this is how i found the 500 savings i mentioned above.
Last edited by Paulnsx; Jan 18, 2009 at 05:17 PM.
Thanks for taking your time to post that. I think ill keep my policy as is then. Now, once I get my new insurance, I have to re register my car and maybe ill get vanity plates.
Last edited by 19DB794; Jan 18, 2009 at 05:17 PM.
there are a lot of springs out there that are for looks, eibachs, teins, ect. I find suspension to be the most complicated thing about cars which i consider saying a lot. Spring rate vs dampening rate, caster, camber, toe in, toe out. I understand what they are but not how to optimize them. i truly think suspension tuning is an art form because unlike tuning a car to be the best you have to tune it according to the driver.
