I used Klasse before, but that took forever to remove. Any advice on application and removal. I have read that using a small spray bottle for application works really well.

 

Depending on what you're applying, I have a little trick for applying wax by hand (that is NOT pure carnauba), take the applicator and soak it in water and wring it out REALLY well - no dripping and just noticeably damp. This will help to disperse the wax and ease the movement on the surface. Klasse is a good brand but it's finicky.

The pure stuff, I apply with my bare hands

 

it is difficult when there are a lot of people behind you. last night i did a firm slow down to like 40 mph and the people that were like 1/4 mile behind all slowed big time thinking there was a cop ahead. that is how traffic starts Some idiot taps his brakes at 2pm on 76W and the whole things is stopped at 4pm.

btw i hate information! i read a lot of instructions about brake bedding, most said to do heavy applications from about 60mph to 20mph about 8-10 times. let them fully cool. and repeat until an even blue hue is on the rotor. now i am pulling up info saying light to moderate braking for the first 400-500 miles or 20 light applications (and this is for performance brakes). gotta love. hope i didn't F anything up now!

 

Pete I went with racing brake 800 pads, ss lines and ate superblue.

I was reading back to back 60 to 10 and then cool down with out stopping and repeat. something along those lines. I have never spent much time bedding pads on any of my old cars just drove em around. I want to make sure I bed these right cause Im gonna need em

60 to 10 in Eagle and your *** is toast. Bye bye JDM rear

 

PATP won't be a bad place to do it. plus what i envisioned in my head was a completely different experience. i seemed to have forgotten how quickly we can stop from 60 and get back up to speed. you can do it on an entrance ramp (accelerate - slow to 20 - accelerate and merge). it take like 3-5 seconds for each one.

 

Yeah....If I was bedding the Fusion brakes, I'd need the turnpike....cause it'll take me from one exit to the next to do one "bedding"

 

Thats funny... Dan single handedly brings traffic to a halt on 76 while trying to bed his brakes.

I usually bed mine on Worthington. Its nice and straight, you can see cops if there hanging out and usually not to much traffic, just a soccer mom here and there. 401 would probably work good too.
I'll have to check out those racing brake pads. I have no idea what I want to order...

 

Damn. No it wouldn't have been anything like that. It must have been for another turbo I bought. I'm just going to sell it cheap and be upfront about the questionability I guess.

 

I know the water trick with the wax, learned it years ago. What's the "pure stuff" you're talking about? Dont tell me you got that $1000+ Zymol stuff?

 

I have the $300 DoDo juice and probably picking up the $550 Swissvax soon

 

I have a IX turbo if you want to compare Josh. You should be able to identify the compressor side with the model number in my post a few pages back. For the turbine side, I believe the 9 has the single flapper, but I'm not sure about the 8s. The 9 turbo is noticeably larger than the 8 when looked at side by side. I'm pulling mine this weekend if you wanna check it out.

Nick, you're crazy. Do you choose the wax to use depending on how much the customer pays? I've seen the DoDo stuff before, but never heard of it, so I didn't buy. I need to start reading the detailing forums again. I'm a member of autogeek but haven't been on for almost a year.

 

The real detailing forum is Autopia.org, yes I use it depending on what is paid/what use the vehicle goes through.

 

I'm on autopia also. I use autogeek for discounts, lol.

 

You guys running new pads, here is some info I pulled from TireRack that I've used over the years. Some manufacturer doesn't say anything about bedding pads, but I've used the Hawk procedure in those cases. Durign the bedding process, I check the rotors to make sure the entire pad surface is in contact with the rotor surface by looking for variance in ware on the rotor surface.

Bedding-in new pads and rotors should be done carefully and slowly. Rapid heat build up in the brake system can lead to warped rotors and or glazed brake pads. Most brake pad compounds will take up to 300-400 miles to fully develop an even transfer film on the rotors. Following are the recommended bed-in procedures from each manufacturer:

AKEBONO

400 to 500 miles of moderate driving is recommended. Consumer should avoid heavy braking during this period.

ATE

400 to 500 miles of moderate driving is recommended. Consumer should avoid heavy braking during this period.

BREMBO Gran Turismo

In a safe area, apply brakes moderately from 60mph to 30mph and then drive approximately 1/2 mile to allow the brakes to cool. Repeat this procedure approximately 30 times.

HAWK

After installing new pads make 6 to 10 stops from approximately 35 mph with moderate pressure. Make an additional two to three hard stops from approximately 40 to 45 mph. Do not allow the vehicle to come to a complete stop.When completed with this process, park the vehicle and allow the brakes to cool completely before driving on them again. Do not engage the parking brake until after this cooling process is compete.

NOTE: Hawk racing pads (Blue, Black, HT-10, HT-12) may require a different bed-in procedure. Contact your sales specialists at the Tire Rack for racing application information.

POWER SLOT

Follow the brake pad manufacturer's recommended break-in procedure taking care not to produce excessive heat in the system. Avoid heavy braking for the first 400-500 miles.

SATISFIED

For Gransport GS6 Carbon Ceramic Pads —

Step 1: Make 10 stops from 30 mph (50 kph) down to about 10 mph (15 kph) using moderate braking pressure and allowing approximately 30 seconds between stops for cooling. Do not drag your pads during these stops. After the 10th stop, allow 15 minutes for your braking system to cool down.

Step 2: Make 5 consecutive stops from 50 mph (80 kph) down to 10 mph (15 kph). After the 5th stop, allow your braking system to cool for approximately 30 minutes. This completes the break-in of your pads to the rotor surface.

During Steps 1 & 2, a de-gassing process occurs which may produce an odor coming from your pads as they complete the break-in cycle. This odor is normal and is part of the process your pads must go through to achieve their ultimate level of performance. The odor will go away after allowing your braking system to cool for approximately 30 minutes.

As with any new set of pads, do not tow a trailer or do any hauling during the break-in period.

Full seating of your new brake pads normally occurs within 1,000 miles.

 

Here is what I've used over the years with various cars/pad materials and the same good results.

All you're trying to do is transfer a layer of pad material to the rotors. if you're using old rotors and new pads you should clean the old crap off the rotors with some scotch-brite or steelwool so the pads have a good surface to start, then hit them with brake clean. New rotors just hit them with brake clean to take the oil off.

Do 6-10 "panic" stops from +65 to 5 without letting the car come to a complete stop. By panic stops I mean you should try and brake as hard as you can without triggering ABS. You are done bedding when you feel the pads start to fade. Pad fade = a hard brake pedal but deminished braking ability, as opposed to fluid fade which is a soft pedal and deminished brakes. Once you done that drive for several miles w/o touching the brakes to let them cool completely.