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differance between recirculating and circulating?

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Old Feb 9, 2010 | 02:39 PM
  #31  
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From: Auburn,WA
Originally Posted by Evo8Monster
No, Rob. It will fit just fine. I just took out my upper and LICP to put Tclamps on. It was very easy to do by myself. My radiator was out too cause I was installing a new one, but you don't need it to be out. It'll go in with the upper rad hose in.

+ 1 for Dan's comment. Make sure your fittings are easy to get to.
thank you
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Old Feb 9, 2010 | 02:42 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Evo8Monster
No, Rob. It will fit just fine. I just took out my upper and LICP to put Tclamps on. It was very easy to do by myself. My radiator was out too cause I was installing a new one, but you don't need it to be out. It'll go in with the upper rad hose in.

+ 1 for Dan's comment. Make sure your fittings are easy to get to.
my intake system dont come up like that. i have the AEM short ram? is that goin to be an issue too?
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Old Feb 9, 2010 | 02:43 PM
  #33  
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I wouldn't recommend switching to a small battery unless you're concerned with reducing weight up front or need extra room for mods. With the small battery, if I let the car sit for over a week, it'll need a jump start.
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Old Feb 9, 2010 | 02:45 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by autoxer_minh
I wouldn't recommend switching to a small battery unless you're concerned with reducing weight up front or need extra room for mods. With the small battery, if I let the car sit for over a week, it'll need a jump start.
oh that sucks. i was goin to have the battery relocated to my trunk. would that be hard to do?
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Old Feb 9, 2010 | 02:51 PM
  #35  
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Sorry, I don't have any experience with relocating the battery but I can't imagine it'd be too difficult. I'm sure there are plenty of peeps on this forum that have done it for either race prep or some bumpin audio system.
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Old Feb 9, 2010 | 02:52 PM
  #36  
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Some people have mentioned optimas for honda civics are smaller / lighter but enough that you don't need a jump start... I haven't done it personally but it sounded good

In all seriousness, no reason to VTA, even if you have speed density. Just takes that much longer to rebuild the boost that you just let out of the system. VTA for people who want to look cool. Recirc for people that care about speed. If you're all about looking cool, I know a guy selling a muffler bearing. It will add 5whp and is made of carbon fiberz!.
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Old Feb 9, 2010 | 02:55 PM
  #37  
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its ok.
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Old Feb 9, 2010 | 02:57 PM
  #38  
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From: Everett
Originally Posted by *.jdmevo8.*
my intake system dont come up like that. i have the AEM short ram? is that goin to be an issue too?
Not sure about the AEM intake. I don't know anyone who has it....

I just installed the HKS SSQBOV in Angie's MR. It takes a C clamp to attach the BOV to the recirc fitting, and is a pain to do without the proper tool. I had to modify (ie, grind down) some pliers to get it to work. You are more than welcome to borrow them.

Also, it requires a 4mm tube for the boost line (stock is 6mm). So buy that before hand. You'll only need a little, like 4" or so.

I don't have a pic of her install tho.....
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Old Feb 9, 2010 | 03:00 PM
  #39  
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I haven't relocated a battery, but I have ran 4 gauge back to the trunk through the interior of the car. If you can get the 4 gauge back there, then it would be easy to relocate a battery back there since there is plenty of places to ground. There is a hole through the firewall on the passenger side (I don't have my VIII any more so I can't take pics), but ran the 4 gauge through there through the kick panel, through the door panels under the rear seat out a hole in the back. Took about an hour to do it clean.
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Old Feb 9, 2010 | 03:00 PM
  #40  
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From: Auburn,WA
Originally Posted by Evo8Monster
Not sure about the AEM intake. I don't know anyone who has it....

I just installed the HKS SSQBOV in Angie's MR. It takes a C clamp to attach the BOV to the recirc fitting, and is a pain to do without the proper tool. I had to modify (ie, grind down) some pliers to get it to work. You are more than welcome to borrow them.

Also, it requires a 4mm tube for the boost line (stock is 6mm). So buy that before hand. You'll only need a little, like 4" or so.

I don't have a pic of her install tho.....
oh. well if ur goin to the XXX meet then i can show you.
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Old Feb 9, 2010 | 04:00 PM
  #41  
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From: Everett
Originally Posted by *.jdmevo8.*
oh. well if ur goin to the XXX meet then i can show you.
I hope I have the time to go, but I'll be moving soon, so I'm not sure yet.

Moving-
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Old Feb 9, 2010 | 04:13 PM
  #42  
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From: Lynnwood, Wa
Wait!

Carbon Fiber muffler bearings?!?!

Where can I get my hands on some?

That will put my honda at just over 56 FWHP then I can throw my stock steelies back on the front and do burnouts all over the wal-mart parking lot!!!!!
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Old Feb 9, 2010 | 06:04 PM
  #43  
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From: Monroe - WA
Originally Posted by jdmEviL8
^ im wondering what the point of speed density is with 350hp? ...serious question
Remove the MAF - every bit helps!

Originally Posted by migs647
Some people have mentioned optimas for honda civics are smaller / lighter but enough that you don't need a jump start... I haven't done it personally but it sounded good

In all seriousness, no reason to VTA, even if you have speed density. Just takes that much longer to rebuild the boost that you just let out of the system. VTA for people who want to look cool. Recirc for people that care about speed. If you're all about looking cool, I know a guy selling a muffler bearing. It will add 5whp and is made of carbon fiberz!.
I've heard about Miata batteries doing fairly well, but I'm using an Odyssey PC680 and it generally works pretty well. During the cold it can die on me if it sits too long, otherwise it has been fine for 2 years. If you're not going to short piping I say stick with a big battery.

I'm not sure how VTA helps you look cool. I went with the TiAL 50mm BOV which happens to be VTA only. It certainly isn't there to look cool since no one sees it, but it is there as a highly proven piece.
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