hello, i have a 2011 OS SE

I have had the code P0145: oxygen Sensor Circuit Slow esponse Bank 1 Sensor 3.

it has plagued my MPG and my OS now does this thing where it revs on its own at stops or even in park. it pulsates up and down about 400-600rpm from normal idle. this morning i was stopped at a light for a solid 5 minutes straight with my OS just reving and it some how killed the battery. it completely died but i restarted it and it started up again.

I have already replaced the sensor with an OEM 02 senser and i had it checked and mitsubishi says "maybe" its a faulty sensor like they didnt want to look that hard. is it possible theres a leak? wouldnt they have noticed? im not a mechanic but i cant keep buying $300 sensors.

any advice or info would be greatly appreciated!!!

 

First off, your vehicle is 5 years old. Time for a new battery!
When the battery is dying the ECU can throw out weird code(s).

Here's a related thread >
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ou...y-feature.html

>> If you don't have/can't pull any -maintenance history at the Mitsubishi dealership- then I'd suggest you get the basics out of the way (spark plugs, air filter, oil/filter change etc) BEFORE you spend any more money on sensors and the like.

 

cool thatll be first step, ive been holding off incase i have to put down a lot of money to fix this car... red top here i come

 

If you're strapped for cash, then I'd go in this order:

1. Oil/filter change
2. Air filter (depending on how dirty it is, you might be able to vacuum it abit to extend its usage...)***
3. Spark plugs
4. Battery

Main thing is to get that battery checked, But be ready to get a new one soon.
If you need to know the specs (model #'s) of each item, then look here >

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ou...t-asx-rvr.html

*** NOTE: your 2011 uses a DIFFERENT air filter than the one I have pictured, so double check for your vehicle before you order/buy!


.

 

I agree that a dying battery can induce false DTCs. However, spark plug failure would cause a misfire code and a clogged air filter would be detected by the MAF.
The P0145 is a specific code for cars to be registered in California. Attached, please find the file from the service manual containing the diagnosis.
It is highly possible that the sensor itself is just fine. It could rather be a leaking injector, failure of the pressure regulator, or coolant leak, just to mention the most common causes for such DTC.
Check the battery first with a volt meter. When the engine is not running you should measure at least 12.2 V. If the battery checks out, check the coolant reservoir. If you notice a dropped level then you may have coolant leak. If all those are fine then take the car in for performing the test described in the attached file. Good luck.

 

so got a new battery, which reset the computer but code came back on with the same symptoms. P0145 is in relation to an oxygen sensor, do you really think it could be spark plugs or MAF? 90k miles im sure they havent been changed. air filter is nice and clean changed out when i bought it. ill look into the coolant level but engine temp is right where it should be.


like i said earlier the sensor was changed out with a new OEM one so its got to be a connector or over heated. ill keep hunting i guess.


also where did you get that PDF? that seems really handy for future codes too

 

I think I suggested otherwise. The spark plug failure would give you a different DTC (misfire) and so would the MAF.
As for the service manual: Google gave me this for "2011 Mitsubishi Outlander Sport Service Manual pdf" search in 0.65 s:
http://mitsubishiforum.com/forum/mit...al-data-40049/

I also found this:
https://www.yourmechanic.com/article...by-jay-safford

 

haha sorry i thought you had access to a full PDF repair manual like chiltons. with my lexus there was a lawsuit for my make and a lot of site with free repair manuals were shut down i just assumed that was same for a lot of newer vehicles especially. ill search first next time

 

jon the fb page we have it

 

So still having some issues I've had Mitsubishi look into it and I feel like they lazily told me I need a new O2 sensor still, so I had it replaced again with OEM just incase the first new one was faulty. Still same code. Car is super hesitant and when in park or stopped at a light it revs on its own and car shutters pretty hard wen RPM drops. My car has died 4 times now when it does this at a light longer than 3 minutes. I've told the shop both times I had the sensor replaced to check all the wire connections as it may not be the sensor itself that is the issue. I get the code read regularly to make sure it's nothing new and the guy reading the codes dead it's likely my catalytic converter is going out prematurely. Any recommendations or help would be great before I have to pay 1k for a new exhaust 😩

 

@Spacko0131

Really..
If you haven't done the sparkplugs then do that before you throw away MORE of your money on some silly new exhaust OR a third "new" O2 sensor...

> While you're at it, double check the spark plug wiring, if they are frayed or in any way cracked/ripped/deteriorated have them replaced at the same time as the sparkplugs.

>> Also, check closely the intake tube between the MAF and the intake throttle, if there is a small crack/rip in that rubber tube, it would 'definitely' cause the cycling of the RPMs at stop/idle.

 

thanks for the input ill look into those issues this weekend, i thought if it was a spark plug there would be a miss fire code along with it :/ ill let you know what i find thanks again!

 

Not always...
The sparkplugs are OLD for sure at 90K. AND, the spark plug wires are Just as Old and when that happens the protective sleeve/insulator may have deteriorated/cracked causing it the "bleed" voltage/spark out > to the cylinder wall(s) and causing a 'retarded' detonation which would not be error coded.

It's one of those things that you ONLY know about IF it ever happened to you before. Not many techs** would catch that because they relay so heavily on what the computer tells them now-a-days, and not from what they SHOULD be looking at.



** As proven - that they(the dealership's technicians) STILL Haven't fixed your basic hesitation/stalling problem After diagnosing AND replacing of said sensor parts.



>>> Just to clarify - When I say spark plug wires, I also mean the insulator boot that goes down over the sparkplugs... If any of them are worn/rip/cracked (flaking or brittle - even by a tiny bit) = Replace them all at the same time!

 

So i checked the air intake tube between the MAf and engine it seems fine, seals are both tight no rips in the hose, but my Air filter wasn't secured correctly. there were sizable gap along the top. i tried to readjust it this morning and the lower portion would'nt seal correctly either ill try and pull it apart later and see why the air box is not closing entirely. after adjusting the air box notably the CEL was off when i started the car but it seems to cycle on and off anyways so im sure itll come on soon the RPM issue still happens intermittently with the CEL off. this wouldn't cause the RPM Cycles without another code than the P0145 right? i don't get what is causing the issues still.

Replacing spark plugs end of the week still and ill check the coil packs as well

 

Pull that air filter out and check to make sure it's the proper one for your 2011 model...

The 2013 and newer air filter changed, they look like diapers >

Notice that large radius on one of the corners
which may cause a non-fit issue, IF somebody put that in your airbox!

compared to the original 2011's >


So, get that airbox seated properly FIRST!


Keep us posted.