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What Mitsu Alternators will fit 2.0L 4B11 engine

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Old Nov 8, 2017, 08:18 AM
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What Mitsu Alternators will fit 2.0L 4B11 engine

I've been having issues with the Battery draining out and figured out it's not a bad battery as I dropped in a known good battery from my other vehicle with same results (battery ends up dying and warning lights come on like crazy until RVR won't run. Charge up the battery and it runs again till battery dies again.)

I did have it in a local auto repair shop when it failed the first time and that shop told me the alternator was good and battery had a dead cell which it's obviously not according to Canadian tire who charged it back up and said it was good during the warranty test and my own swap with other known good battery test).

I'm about to take it to another auto repair shop to diagnose the problem which I assume is either the alternator/regulator, wiring or harness corrosion, bad ground connection or possibly TSB 14-16-001 (but I don't hear any squeaking or grinding from the alternator).

From searching the forum I have the 2.0L 4B11 engine and possibly a re-gen alternator that gets help charging the battery from the brakes (although I'm not really clear on that). so a new factory mitsubishi alternator is apparently very expensive (~$1500).

I kind of have a feeling that it may not actually be the alternator as the first shop said it was testing good but before I take it to the another shop I was going to try and price out and find availability of a used alternator at a scrap yard because I have a feeling they may tell me it's the alternator even if it isn't. I have a feeling that the Lancer and possibly other model years (newer OS/RVR) with the 2.0L engine would also be a fit and I was hoping to get one that is from a newer vehicle so I know it doesn't have the issues with the ones pre TSB 14-16-001 Can anyone confirm if I could use something from a donor vehicle that is not exactly a 2011/2012 RVR (AKA other vehicles with the 4B11 engine or other engines that use the same alternator).

FYI I just bought this 2012 RVR GT (born Nov. 2011) and it has 168,000KM, it is a re-build from a front end collision in 2014 and looks like it's been driven in quite a dirty area with salted roads in the winter (Ontario Canada) Previous owner replaced the battery about 18 months ago and no indication if the TSB 14-16-001 was ever completed but I doubt it was from the paperwork I got showing the other recalls that were completed like the wiper motor and rear lift struts..

Looking for any additional knowledge or comments the group may have (perhaps where to check for any common corroded harness/wiring points).

Sorry for the long post I just figure the more info the better. Thanks
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Old Nov 8, 2017, 09:50 AM
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There have been a few DIY wiring done in your vehicle. I suspect you have a parasitic loss somewhere due to incorrect wiring of a device (DRL perhaps?). Try the following before you go anywhere. You will only need a multimeter to do this.
Measure the battery voltage between the terminals at the engine not running and the ignition at the off position. Your voltage should be in case of a good battery at least 12.7 V or so. I am using my car mostly on short trips and my battery voltage never goes higher than 12.4 V (since two years or so ago; I was recommended by the dealer to replace the battery but I declined and I am still fine). Perform the same voltage test when the engine is running. If your alternator works well you should get above 13.5 V voltage irrespective of what your resting potential (with the engine off) was. There are more sophisticated methods but this one is a good crude test.
If you get this 13.5 V or higher with the engine running then I would look for the parasitic loss(es).

Last edited by AWCAWD; Nov 9, 2017 at 06:36 AM.
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Old Nov 8, 2017, 12:08 PM
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@Stevedask

The $1,500 is for the re-gen alternators.
You can try to find an old alternator from the big brother - Outlander (or a Lancer).. IF you really had to swop it out. Most likely that's not the issue.

Double check the terminal connections on battery: 1. make sure they are securely tightened 2. there's no corrosion between the posts and clamp 3. MAKE sure the positive "fuse block" is not rusted...
(pic of fuse block) >
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ou...ntegrated.html


Also, before you do all that.. make sure you get a Brand NEW battery with at least 530CCA (minimum)
See here (Look at Post#5) >
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ou...m-battery.html

If you're getting weird ECU warnings like this >
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ou...y-feature.html
it's definitely a sign of dead/"Dying" battery. It MAY show 'good' voltage, but something is wrong internally with the cells.

Last edited by mRVRsport; Nov 8, 2017 at 12:13 PM.
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Old Nov 9, 2017, 01:54 PM
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Shop just called back and said it's the alternator. wants $1000 CND to put in a new one saying 2-3 hours of labour and $500 plus dollars for a new non mitsu alternator. Is telling me a used one is really not a good option. I'm trying to find a new one stocked in an autoparts store in Niagara Falls NY as I am her efor the nioght but no one stocks them.
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Old Nov 9, 2017, 03:36 PM
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^
If this "Shop" is not a Mitsubishi dealership, then I would suggest you go to an authorized dealer and have them pull up the TSB history for this vehicle and see if they can perform the TSB 14-16-001.
Verses going out of pocket for $1,000 immediately for an alternator that may not solve your problem(s).

It won't hurt to try and just tell them/dealer it's a "Safety issue"/concern that you have this TSB done > Due to the Many random non-starts and dash ECU warnings. That you had a regular repair shop try to diagnose and they can Not figure out what's wrong with the vehicle...
(That's the reason you give them, don't try to explain that you're trying to save a buck on an alternator or anything else.. then they can deny your request.)
(Just a heads up - the dealer may likely charge you $125 just to look at your vehicle since it's likely out of factory warranty.. but at least they can give you a better diagnosis.)
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Old Nov 10, 2017, 06:44 AM
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Originally Posted by mRVRsport View Post
^
If this "Shop" is not a Mitsubishi dealership, then I would suggest you go to an authorized dealer and have them pull up the TSB history for this vehicle and see if they can perform the TSB 14-16-001.
Verses going out of pocket for $1,000 immediately for an alternator that may not solve your problem(s).

It won't hurt to try and just tell them/dealer it's a "Safety issue"/concern that you have this TSB done > Due to the Many random non-starts and dash ECU warnings. That you had a regular repair shop try to diagnose and they can Not figure out what's wrong with the vehicle...
(That's the reason you give them, don't try to explain that you're trying to save a buck on an alternator or anything else.. then they can deny your request.)
(Just a heads up - the dealer may likely charge you $125 just to look at your vehicle since it's likely out of factory warranty.. but at least they can give you a better diagnosis.)
A good thought but I'm way out of warranty (105,000 Miles), car is re-built (former salvage accident vehicle voided warranty) and I don't think TSB's are typically covered like recalls so I'd probably just be wastign my breath/Money for another diagnosis with the dealer i think.

The "shop" says it looks like there is currently a "junk-yard" alternator in there due to some markings they see on it that look like salvage yard paint marks and I understand that non-OEM alternators don't do well in Mitsubishi's in general; so I just purchased a Genuine OEM 1800A288 from E-bay and I was going to have him install that vs. the new aftermarket one the "shop" was recommending. Cost on E-bay is a bit less for a new Mitsu alternatioor ordered in the USA vs. $500 Canadian the shop wants to charge for the off brand anyways.

I would go route above unless TSB 14-16-001 involves something more than just replacing the alternator with the 1800A288 "one way clutch " version. If so maybe I should take my OEM Mitsu part to the dealer and have them install it (if they will install customer supplied parts)?

So the big question is TSB 14-16-001 more than just the updated alternator replacement?

PS - Indie shop says manual states 2.5 hours labor to replace alternator but TSB allows for only 1 hour labor for the swap - anyone know how long a Altrernator replace actually takes (assuming no seized bolts).
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Old Nov 16, 2017, 05:46 PM
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So finally received the new Mitsu 1800A288 alternator and went to have it bench tested before it gets installed just to make sure and Napa Auto tells me it fails because of the DC part of the test (autozone and Advanced auto machines couldn't even test the alternator as they didn't have codes/pigtails required). WTF with this Alternator -no stock anywhere and barely any place can test??? So did I get a faulty "new" alternator that I need to send back or is there something special about this Alternator that causes it to show a fail on the DC part of the test?

NAPA ALT test result on new alternator
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Old Nov 17, 2017, 05:16 AM
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Ouch!
What a headache and a downer...

Not sure what to say about that.
So, has the same test been done on the original alternator from your vehicle?
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Old Nov 17, 2017, 06:23 AM
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The old alternator is still on the vehicle but I will test it once it's replaced just to make sure that's the actual problem and not something else. Problem is I live in Canada and it's not like in the USA where you haev a bunch of places that will test alternators for free, so I have to take my parts a hour across the boarder to get tested. Also that makes returning this alternator a problem as I have to go over the boarder to send it back, wait for the new one and go back again to get it So now I'm thinking of taking the new OEM part to a local Mitsubishi dealer here in Canada and asking if they can check to see if it can be replaced under Mitsubishi warranty (maybe it has some type of date code or S/N they can use to identify it). If that doesn't work then I will take it to a local Auto-Electric shop to see how much they would charge to repair it (and try to work with the seller on paying for the repair). If that doesn't work I will have to send it back and wait for a replacement and hopefully the replacement isn't defective. Would be nice to get this OS back on the road and finally start to drive it!
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Old Nov 17, 2017, 08:08 AM
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Originally Posted by stevedask View Post
The old alternator is still on the vehicle but I will test it once it's replaced just to make sure that's the actual problem and not something else. Problem is I live in Canada and it's not like in the USA where you haev a bunch of places that will test alternators for free, so I have to take my parts a hour across the boarder to get tested. Also that makes returning this alternator a problem as I have to go over the boarder to send it back, wait for the new one and go back again to get it So now I'm thinking of taking the new OEM part to a local Mitsubishi dealer here in Canada and asking if they can check to see if it can be replaced under Mitsubishi warranty (maybe it has some type of date code or S/N they can use to identify it). If that doesn't work then I will take it to a local Auto-Electric shop to see how much they would charge to repair it (and try to work with the seller on paying for the repair). If that doesn't work I will have to send it back and wait for a replacement and hopefully the replacement isn't defective. Would be nice to get this OS back on the road and finally start to drive it!
Have you done the basic (crude test) I have suggested on the original alternator?
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Old Nov 17, 2017, 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by AWCAWD View Post
Have you done the basic (crude test) I have suggested on the original alternator?
No it's been sitting at the shop since I limped it there.

Good news though I took the alternator I bought to the Auto Electric shop and when they bench tested it they said it was fine. They said perhaps NAPA didn't have something hooked up right? I'm going to have the shop install it and see how it goes.
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Old Nov 18, 2017, 07:01 AM
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Good luck.

Keep us posted..
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Old Dec 27, 2017, 12:45 PM
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Originally Posted by mRVRsport View Post
Good luck.

Keep us posted..
Sorry I've been on vacation for a bit - Update is that is was ultimately the defective original Mitsu alternator and it's been replaced. I also had serpentine belt done at same time - FYI the belt pep boys sold me for $30 was apparently too small so had to get screwed for a $90 one from the mechanic - but have had no issues since the replacement was done.

Total cost was $950 CND or $750 USD
$135 for the first incorrect diagnosis.
$220 new mitsu open box alternator (updated style 1800A288) on E-bay
$595 for 2nd diagnosis and replacement of alternator and new belt.
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Old Dec 27, 2017, 07:16 PM
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Great to hear you finally got the problem fixed.
What a relief to have that monkey off your back!

Now go have a relaxing and Happy New Year!!
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