Need pics ASAP!

 

Did a little work last night. Finished the new turbo mount bracket and mounted the manifold on the head. My oil return line won't work in it's current form because the CHRA for the turbo now clocks the drain straight down. On the RNR manifold it came out at 45 degrees to the front. So I'm switching the orientation of the fitting, from 45 out the turbo to straight out the turbo, and making the hose shorter - hopefully that works. The oil feedline takes a new route but still works. The lower IC pipe will work as-is along with the intake. But I'm going to need to modifiy the down pipe a fair amount, as well as my dump tube which exits out the splitter in a specific location.

Here's the way the 3" O2 housing fits - pretty good.



The wastegate requires modifications to the surrounding area to fit. First you have to bend the AC hardpipe to the left about 2 inches; that's pretty simple. Then you need to remove the power steering heatshield and trim it to clear the wastegate.



Here's the engine bay now. I still need to fix the downpipe, dump tube, and oil drain. Then I can put the radiator back in place and get back to tuning. I'll probably finish the Accusump while I'm under there.

 

drool

 

Looks great Jared! Sorry this crack caused so much more work for you, but it will better in the long run.

 

Sorry about the crack. Guess my keeping of a log manifold is not a bad idea.
Good luck man!

 

Another "work" night where I was in the garage until 2AM. My oil line won't work with the 45 degree fitting, I tried all sorts of things but it puts a kink in the hose. So I went and got a new straight fitting at lunch with some new hose. Now the return line will use a straight fitting at both the turbo and oil pan.

I had to take off the under panels to get the downpipe off - that always sucks. But I was able to cut the downpipe like I did on my first round of modifications and then add the Vband and a section to locate it correctly. Might be running again tonight...

 

Looking good man.

 

Routing the dump tube was a little tricky. I cut it apart for the third time now since I first built it. I had to reorganize the bends and do some cutting but I got it to dump out the hole in the splitter like it should. The oil line is sorted as well and the radiator is back in place.

I just need to add coolant (water only since the cold/freezing season is past). I still want to finish the Accusump install while the bottom is off the car and it's on jack stands. Just need to route the hose under the car and tap into the oil filter housing. Crossing my fingers to be back to finalizing the tune on my commute tomorrow.

 

I've been addicted to this thread. I was doing my 2.3l at the same time, now I'm just waiting for my 35r to come in the mail.

Did you ever figure out the phantom knock issue? Me and my tuner haven't really been able to figure out mine. It doesn't seem to happen that often, it just gets annoying after a while. Did you get knock under load or when it was just iddling? We're hoping that when I switching to e85 will eliminate all the knock issues....

 

I had knock everywhere: revving at idle, light throttle, decel, peak torque etc. This was with the factory knock settings. I added the knock control tables to my ECU .xml and then adjusted them to the same values most of the user guys with built motors have adopted. This gets rid of all the idle, part throttle and weird knock. At peak torque I still have some random knock counts. I still believe it is false because it's independent of timing values or fuel. But to get rid of it you really have to increase the knock settings and I feel it removes the safety margin. So I'm still working around that issue.

I got all the coolant hose in place and topped of the radiator with distilled water and Redline Water Wetter - so it's ready to start.

But I decided to finish the Accusump install. Here's where the Accusump feeds into the oil filter housing. The fitting is a 3/8" NPT to -10 AN. I got the house routed under the car and realized it was about 1.5 ft too long. It wasn't last time I did it, but I guess I found a better route this time... So now I just need to cut off some hose, and reinstall the AN connector, which is a PITA, So I should be able to get the car started and fill the Accusump when I get home today. Hopefully tuning more tomorrow. I've got a track day Thurday to be ready for.

 

Accusump line routed under the car.



Fittings at the oil filter housing.



Finished in the trunk, you can see the idle oil pressure.



Finished engine bay with the new manifold.

 

I notice you used a washer under your braces. But, more important is what you welded to teh braces. Did you triangulate the sub-frame braces and weld them together?

 

Also...who made your downpipe? I think my car came with the same ****ty one on it. I recognize the flex pipe and the two mounts.

<-- bought my car from a guy that lived on Alkai Beach who bought the car from an older gentleman who DEFINITELY tracked the crap out of my car. You might know the Original owner

 

Hi, jid2
I wonder how ACCUSUMP works, and what are its benefits.
Thanks
Antonio

 

The washers help with clearance a little. I welded on plates with nuts to mount my flat bottom. It's not triangulated, I haven't done anything with bracing besides some stuff I hacked together years ago in the trunk.

The downpipe is a Megan racing part (cheap). It was the first thing I ever got for the car, it's OK, stainless pipe is stainless pipe for the most part.

The Accusump is a pressurized oil reservoir. If the oil pressure drops it injects oil into the system to bring it back up. It's a nice bit of additional protection for road racing and high G corners where oil pressure is an issue.

I had a few years of no track time when I first moved back to WA from Utah, just started again last summer, and only did one day before I pulled the motor to start all this stuff. So I don't know who had your car before... nothere might, he's a track all-star.