I got the fuel map fixed back up during my drive home. I then added a few degrees of timing out the top, looking to find the MBT threshold where it stops making more torque/power. It's now making 500 whp by holding the torque better in the top end.

I'll keep adding a degree at a time up top until it stops making more power. Then I'll go in and try some timing adjustments around peak torque, and see if there's more to be had around there. That's where my false knock is active so you have to be a Sherlock Holmes to interpret the data.

After I shakeout the MBT timing I'll go and pull 2 degrees out and use that as the tune. E85 is fun stuff.

 

GL with the build

 

E85 rules for sure. What boost are you at now?

Fathouse

 

27.33 psi

The modified Dude-bro is able to support that, and that's about where I feel the turbo's not a hair-dryer. If it was just a street pull car I'd rock 30 psi.

 

I run my 35r on about 26-27psi daily on e85 with a single modded walbro. I do run leaner a/fs than you do though. I have had it to 28.5 with no knock but I am already pushin the stock rods.

I have seen DLL's as high as 548 on 27psi.

Fathouse

 

What AFR's are you running? What sort of timing were you able to net at peak torque and out the top?

 

ah i missed where you switched to E85

 

I run about 3 deg when the turbo hits and 18-19 up top. a/f in the 12.5-12.8 range.

What are you #'s?

I can 2nd to the top of 5th on this tune with zero knock. I love me some e85.

Fathouse

 

Those are some lean AF's, seems like most people are running 12.0!

I need a few more days to get the timing tuned, then I'll post up some DLL graphs. Right now it's about 500 whp and 420 ft-lbs torque.

 

Errrrrrr.

I want to throw rocks at my car!

Went out last night to work on timing... made the first baseline pull and went to review the DLL power graph. 430 whp and 375 ft-lbs of torque. what the hell. At this point I'm wondering how reliable DLL is, since I was making well over 460 whp and 420 ft-lbs. So I make another pull, and I notice the car feels slow and seems to spool crappy. 430 whp and 375 ft-lbs again. So now I'm pissed and call it a night.

I went back and reviewed the older data where the car was making 460-500 whp and compared it to the 430 whp 375 ft-lbs. I think DLL is right. It's not the logger - my car is being lame. I'm spooling slower and noticed my AFR's got richer.

So I've got either a boost leak in the IC piping, or my manifold is leaking before the turbo. Stupid car.....

 

Welcome to the party. Cars are hateful!

Good luck to ya, keep us up on the results, and make some in car vids

 

F.

It's the manifold....

 

Well I pulled the whole turbo setup out of the car last night. There was dust and exhaust residue all over the engine bay from the leaky manifold. It's been cracked since I got it for $200 (although there was no mention of it being cracked). I patched it up with my TIG welder, but some of the areas were not accessible and fixing some created cracks in other areas. I've been worried about it since I installed it.

As much as I'd like to build a new manifold myself I don't have time as spring is for house projects - according to my wife. And I've got track day in 2 weeks, so I need it running to finish tuning STAT.

So I had the manifold dropped off at ETS this morning. We will see if it's best to build a new custom manifold which places the turbo in the same location as the RNR did so that I can retain my custom O2 housing etc. Or just switch over to their standard equal length and run one of their O2 housings. ETS is super flexible and can do just about anything in terms of manifold setups. So it's really nice to have those guys a few hours away.

 

YAY!

funny you say this now cause ive just started buying materials to build (attempt) to build my own manifold. im probably going to redo the 02 housing also

 

If it was winter I'd attempt. But I don't have time for me to screw up, and I'm afraid I would build something that would crack because the first time I would probably struggle with using the correct amount of heat.

I ended up just getting an off the shelf ETS equal length and one of their O2 housings with a V Band to modify my downpipe. It was the same cost as building a custom one jigged to match the RNR and this way I'll get the turbo in a better location as the RNR was too close to the block, too close to the AC and too far down...