good god, that sucks.

 

Yep it certainly does

So Ive been tossing around the idea, particularly based off the way the car runs at the track once everything is all back together, of going up to a 6766 or a 6466, with a 3794 on the table as well, though its definitely likely not going to make its way onto my car but I still am keeping it as an option because its up there with the 6766. Highly likely that I would like to go twin scroll T4 with 1.15ar as the exhaust side.

I was really 97% decided on the 6766 until the a-hole 6466 came out and confused me I feel like for my build, I might as well just go for the 6766. The difference in spool on my 2.4 for the 64 vs 67 will probably be negligible and the benefit of the additional top end of the 67 will be worth it.

I enjoy my car as it is tremendously and its definitely quick as hell and very fun, I just feel like Im battling that stigma of the fact that my car can handle the power that a 6766 can make, but the build is held back by the stock frame turbo. It's an animal for being on a stock appearing turbo, but I don't really want it to be that, I'd rather it just be an animal period.

Make sense??

 

You, sir, have an extremely fun car right now. I would honestly argue to keep it the way it is. I built my motor like you built yours; to handle a **** ton of power. But, with that said, how much of that newfound power will you really be able to use, especially on the street?

I'm sort of biased to the "animal" type builds, as you just start breaking everything on the car. However, you're at the point where you spool almost immediately and can still ROCK most anything on the street while still being relatively reliable.

Maybe we're on two different trains of thought here, but your car is where I want mine to be when finished, as it's a respectable, usable powerband.

Just my .02.

 

Yea I do agree, it is a lot of fun. And its funny to tell people that you just got county lengthed by a car with a stock frame turbo lol. Im definitely going to keep the setup this way for the whole summer most likely, I think thats the best way to go with. Then when the cold weather comes again in winter, sell the setup and I have decided on a 6466 kit, likely in twinscroll 1.32ar.

 

wow, looks like uve answered my eternal question of "should i go big from the beginning instead of stock frame then get over it and waste money".
would you say your over the power and have grown accustom to it?
like blue91 just said, will it be useable on the road and how much more **** will break. even random **** starts to break like suspension compotents on mental launches.

 

I definitely dont think its a waste of money and Im definitely not bored of it by any means. I just am on the fence really because of the fact that theres so much more unused potential. Like I said, it's quick as hell for a stock frame turbo car and in a sense, that makes it really cool, thats for sure. I will be keeping it how it is for a few months at least. I know, that sooner than later, a bigger piece will end up in there.

I wouldn't settle for a a girl who's chubby who has a pretty face that would be super beautiful if she lost 50 pounds. I just want a beautiful girl period. Get what Im sayin?

 

It's been a while since I updated this. I just got home from the OCMD Summer Cruisin weekend. I had random small issues here and there, particularly a boost leak from an injector seal at the manifold that was causing the car to break up at the top of each gear. That was solved though.

The worst problem right now that I have is my clutch is fused to my flywheel. It happened from normal driving of the car, I wasnt beating on it at the time or anything. It locked up going into reverse for me to back into a parking spot. I replaced the slave, bled it, and adjusted the pedal. Nothing worked. Ive been given a few ideas on how to fix it without dropping my transmission. Hopefully that solves it and it doesnt happen again, and hopefully I dont need to drop my trans. I missed the whole important part of the weekend because of it.

Heres a launch video from the first night down there. For those of you who will say my car is rolling because my clutch is dragging, it is not. I was already well off the floor with the clutch just to get the car rolling a bit so as to not shock the drivetrain, plus the light stalled longer than I expected. I wasnt sure if the Hoosiers would dead hook or not. They didnt My friend makes some really good videos, and he made this as a teaser.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HAW7BgYN054

 

SO a few months have gone by since Ive even been on here because Ive been pretty frustrated with stuff with the car and just needed some time away from it.

It turns out everything I expected to be wrong with the clutch was not. I never was prepared for what I found when I finally got my trans off back in July. 3 of my flywheel bolts backed out, the rest were barely hand tight and the flywheel was chattering against the face of the crank pretty badly, so thats why my trans wouldnt come in and out of gear. There was no red loctite used on the bolts, and unfortunately my friend who did the install passed away recently. Here's what I found when I removed the trans.






I never expected that to be the issue. So, now I need to pull my motor out and Im going to have a new crank, bearings and a new head gasket installed by English Racing for good measure...and hopefully thats all it needs.

I have a QM 8 Leg with ARP Flywheel bolts that I was going to install as well, but I don't know what to do now if I should stay with the Exedy and just get a new flywheel and one disc due to the longevity and easy drivability of the triple, or abandon the Exedy and throw the QM in. I have some ideas for a TS T4 turbo that Ive been discussing with Aaron, but thats all preliminary stuff. The important part is getting the motor repaired right now.

 

Damn dude talk about bad news. evos suck haha. wasnt a good year for me either, dont feel bad lol

 

Sorry about the bad news. Was the chattering during all operation or decel? Reason I asked is I have had what sounds like clutch chatter only during decel when you let off the gas and let the engine coast down but after seeing your pics it makes me nervous if there's more going on...

 

Good choice on ER.

Run the QM twin and ditch the Exedy.

 

Quick question on your flywheel bolts, or for anyone else for that matter..

Did you have to reduce the under head length to get the Evo specific ones (ARP Flywheel bolts) to work in the 100mm crank? Or does ARP make a specific bolt for use in a 100mm crank?

I have a set of ARP flywheel bolts for the Evo, but the hole depth in the 100mm crank isn't as deep as the Evo's, and I have had to reduce the under head length of the bolts by approx 5.5 mm to get the head to seat against my flywheel.

Could that be the reason they backed out? It would vary on how much you would have to reduce the underhead length based on the thickness of your specific flywheel from the clutch you are using.

FWIW, I am using a carbonetics pro blade clutch on the 100mm crank obviously...

 

hahaha yes Evos suck. 99 problems and my evo is em.


If its a very loud deep buzzing on decel, then Id worry. Like making the cabin buzz. Plus you wont be able to get the trans in and out of gear with it running, that will be the most obvious issue. Has it not been engaging/disengaging properly? If it sounds like knives being sharpened and marbles in a can on decel, dont worry its normal.

Ayeeee Im concerned about the life though! I drive a lot and I drive a lot in normal stop and go traffic going thru my town at stoplights and whatnot Im very on the fence. I wanna run the QM since Ive got it and it obviously is a clutch that stays together. I havent been around in a while here, has there been any obvious issues with the QM 8 leg? Aside from clearance/shim issues?

Thats a good question, I had stock Evo bolts in with the Exedy clutch on the 100mm crank and as far as I know there was no issue when they were in. But, these ARP bolts I was given the part number for by a trustworthy source who has experience with the 100mm crank, so Im not concerned about them being wrong.

 

Do you remember what that part number was? I can measure the hole depth tonight or tomorrow and see what at least the thread depth is in the crank if you are really wanting to know why the bolts backed out that badly.. I am just dealing with this as we speak and had my bolts machined the final 1.5mm yesterday to get them to where I think they need to be. I'll be testing/trying them out most likley tomorrow to see if they will work. When I screw them in all the way without the flywheel, I am hoping that with my measurements the bolts will screw in 0.5mm past where the underhead would contact the flywheel for 0.5mm of bolt stretch and clamp load.

Oh, and don't rule out that even the experts/professionals have a little oopsies from time to time...

 

From my experience, even when dealing with one of the alleged "best" Evo shops, all Ive seen is BIG oopsies haha

Part number of the bolts I have is 107-2801.