Just so you know the coating on the engine block is Glyptal paint, it's purpose is to aid in the transfer of oil back to the pan.

 

It kinda happened by accident. I started taking things apart and next thing I knew there was nothing left to take apart! I will list my full plans soon - but basics are dip/strip/e-coat chassis, seam weld, roll cage, dry sump, new aero (50-100% more DF), widebody, AIM dash, fire system, wire tuck, trunk mount radiator, trunk mount ACD pump. . . the list keeps growing.

Sorry, probably keeping that. I AM selling the front splitter setup and the rear wing/trunk setup. If I do sell the diffuser I'll keep you in mind!

I am going to design and build it myself. Will be a hybrid NASA/rally combo. Not a full blown FIA style cage, but well over the minimum NASA specs and will probably be 12 points with full A and B pillar and windshield header gusseting. I am planning on building it and tacking it in place, then having someone else do the finish welding.


Thanks. I couldn't find the yellow on their website. Maybe discontinued or a different brand?

 

Are you planning on going to the rear diff in the rear with the cage?

This is really going to be a sick car when its done. You don't often see a car that has been self built that is willing to go this far. I can't wait to run with you next year. I will at least be able to help fill the field in TTU around here.

 

Yep, going to try to tie the cage into the floorpan above where the rear diff mounts. I picked that up from looking at rally style cages. I was planning on cutting out the spare tire well until I realized that the underside of it is part of the mounting structure for the rear suspension/diff bits.

 

I'd cut the tire well out anyways, too much at stake aerodynamically. You can always tie that mount point into the cage if you're worried about it.

 

I am widening the track of the car for next year and am trying to decide what to do for the rear fenders. The 3 main options out there are APR, Voltex and custom.

APR:




Voltex:



Custom/da hotness:






I like the look of the APR rear fenders. Looks OEM except wider, if that makes sense. What I don't like is that it goes so far up the quarter panel it affects the fuel filler door. Also, I believe it is made so that you have to run their rear bumper. I would hate to have to buy a new rear bumper just to hack it up for my aero goodies.

I like the look and design of the Voltex when it is used with the Evo7 rear bumper. It was designed for this bumper, and when the VIII/IX came out with a redesigned bumper Voltex didn't bother to change the lines on their rear fenders to match. You can see where the line coming off the bottom of the rear vent does not match up with the line in the bumper. This makes it look like a cheap and crappy ebay body kit in my opinion.

The last option is the wild custom DTM/SuperGT style as seen on the Nemo EVO. Of course this is my favorite style, but cost and my lowly fab skills will make this more difficult to achieve.


Please post up any thoughts or ideas on which direction I should go and why. Also, any links to other wide rear fender setups will be much appreciated!

 

Wow that last one is BADASS!

 

It should be - it's the fastest "EVO" in the world, and my inspiration for this project.

 

I like the Voltex kit the most, but looks don't suggest functionality. I would contact Andrew Brilliant and see what he can do for you/what he recommends.

For your ECU... I would recommend (in this order) MoteC M-400 ECU, v88 ViPEC, Pro-EFI 128, or Haltech Platinum Pro.

Where did you buy your rear TOE link adjuster from?

 

Talk to Dave Kern about the rear fender/rear door delete panels he made. That might be a good option for you.

 

How have I not seen this thread! Good stuff! Subscribed.

 

This project has taken a turn for the even more awesome direction. You find any where that will dip the car? Just from what I've come across, I'd go media blast over an acid dip. The acid gets stuck in the panel joints and comes out over time, causing corrosion issues and paint bubbles.

The APR kit can fit a ton of wheel. A friend has the APR kit on his car and with 18x10.5 +15 wheels, the wheels are still tucked in the fender like 1". You could probably fit a 12 with a 315 pretty easily in there with the right offset without having to run huge camber.

 

Nah Bro... 18x10.5 -10

 

I say Voltex if you keep runnung the Voltex front end, and APR if you change the front to something else.

 

That world fast Evo look amazing. The whole body is just a work of art. Unbelievable i keep looking and thinking how they came up with design of it.