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Evodan2004 has lost his mind part 3. The new changes and goals for 2013.

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Old Jul 27, 2013 | 04:28 AM
  #781  
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I do not run a stuck intake manifold. But for the guys who do I would post up some pics. Also look into the JDM manifolds. I think there setup smoother with out the crap your removing.

About the cams. You mean smoothing off between each lobe right? Yes I have. I heard it is beneficial in a few ways.

Keep your eyes open. Crap load of pics to be posted very soon. Can't wait.
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Old Jul 27, 2013 | 09:14 AM
  #782  
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I was refering to the cylinder head itself... The interior walls, and the casting slag everywhere... Even the offset ridges left by the core shift. But i'll look into the cams as well good idea. I know buschur used to import the jdm intake and it was a sexy piece. Most of us aint got one and i wasnt aware you didnt run an oem mani... My bad...
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Old Jul 27, 2013 | 02:17 PM
  #783  
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o ok. my bad. no i didnt do any of that. maybe i will when i remove the head.



ok i need some help. shimming my QM 8 leg clutch. i did not do this before and i want to make sure it either does not need it or if it does it gets done.

measured from the contact point on the TOB to the bell housing. i put a straight edge across and got my reading. that was 68.48MM.

i then measured from the face of the pressure plate to the stater plate. that was 75.73MM.

then from the face of the PP to the fingers. that was 6.50

now how the hell do i put this together HAHAHA.
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Old Jul 27, 2013 | 02:32 PM
  #784  
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i had to have done something wrong. here is what i came up with .

measurements in MM

TOB to bell housing 68.48mm ''2.696 in''
starter late to PP 75.73mm ''2.981 in''
PP to fingers 6.50mm ''0.256 in''

75.48 - 68.48 =s 7.25mm ''0.285 in''
7.25 - 6.50 =s .75mm ''0.030 in''

QM calls for a .160 clearance. i show a .030. i am going to re measure. but anyone else have an idea?
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Old Jul 27, 2013 | 02:36 PM
  #785  
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New they are designed to just drop in... Mine has been machined and it still isnt shimmed... Works great...
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Old Jul 27, 2013 | 02:42 PM
  #786  
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Originally Posted by joseph143
New they are designed to just drop in... Mine has been machined and it still isnt shimmed... Works great...
i know they are. but i had issues last year i want to eliminate. this probably will not do it but it will at least be off my mind. QM told me 99% of the time it does not need it. but to at least check. check i did not do.
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Old Jul 27, 2013 | 03:17 PM
  #787  
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You do have the starter plate installed, right?

I would measure again. Do not forget about the thickness of your straight edge you are placing the MIC on. That needs to be subtracted as well.
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Old Jul 27, 2013 | 03:19 PM
  #788  
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As for it being drop in... Some can get away with it, then they wonder why it goes out quickly or starts having lockout issues. We always measure for reassurance.
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Old Jul 27, 2013 | 04:17 PM
  #789  
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Originally Posted by LGshow19
As for it being drop in... Some can get away with it, then they wonder why it goes out quickly or starts having lockout issues. We always measure for reassurance.
Yes the starter plate is installed. I remeasured and basically got the same thing. Also I measured from the bottom of the straight edge. Which was actually my level. Bottom of level is the top of the bell housing.

Also this clutch is used so I don't know if that matters
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Old Jul 27, 2013 | 05:36 PM
  #790  
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I should probably do the clutch shimming also. I am really hard on my transmissions and I need everything I can get.
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Old Jul 27, 2013 | 07:39 PM
  #791  
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Originally Posted by evodan2004
Yes the starter plate is installed. I remeasured and basically got the same thing. Also I measured from the bottom of the straight edge. Which was actually my level. Bottom of level is the top of the bell housing.

Also this clutch is used so I don't know if that matters
As long as the PP teeth are not worn out too crazy you should be fine measurement wise.

You can measure everything a few times then get an average of everything. Any slight movement can throw off your measurements quite a bit.

Just for reference, my car took a blue shim(smallest, .015). Another car was within spec with no shimming(.170) and my old QM twin also didnt need shimming.

Measure, measure, and measure to be sure. Sucks to pull the tranny down for lockout issues or dragging gears which leads to messed up synchros.
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Old Jul 27, 2013 | 09:54 PM
  #792  
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I said screw it. Back in she go's.

Engine and trans are back in the car. Im done wasting time. Tomorrow I will do the tc and whatever else I can get done before my evening plans
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Old Jul 28, 2013 | 10:03 AM
  #793  
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Originally Posted by evodan2004
I said screw it. Back in she go's.

Engine and trans are back in the car. Im done wasting time. Tomorrow I will do the tc and whatever else I can get done before my evening plans
Hopefully it works out. That could be the difference between 3k miles of clutch life to 7k miles of clutch life.

Anyways, get it back together
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Old Jul 28, 2013 | 11:59 AM
  #794  
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Originally Posted by LGshow19
Hopefully it works out. That could be the difference between 3k miles of clutch life to 7k miles of clutch life.

Anyways, get it back together
its all coming apart this winter again anyways. i want a brand new TRE trans and a new clutch. i also may build a new engine. i just want to drive the damn car even if it breaks going up the driveway. at least i sat in it.

it is 100% i am going to ohio. no car though. i got my room back at the hotel
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Old Jul 28, 2013 | 12:22 PM
  #795  
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ok here is the new TRE transfer case. specs are new R&P, quaiffe, bearings/seals, and whatever else is able to be replaced. also TRE's custom machine work and settings. this should last me a long time.





TRE custom made metal magnetic pick up plate.



putting the 5 year old power plant back in


trans bolted up


TC bolted up




axles and a lot of other bits and pieces back on the car.





making good progress. more to come.
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