Evodan2004 has lost his mind part 3. The new changes and goals for 2013.
i have decided to pull the engine out of the car and repaint the engine bay. i already will have the turbo kit off and the transmission out so why not just go all the way with it. so i ordered all the paint in OEM color in spray cans. primer, Y01 lightening yellow, and clear. it wont be a professorial job but it will look a hell of a lot better then it does now. im excited to get started on this.
thanks to streetthisevo for your help on setting me up with what i needed
thanks to streetthisevo for your help on setting me up with what i needed
Thanks I will give it a shot. Im no pro but with some time and patients I think I can do this.
As for ET products. Id rather shop at walmarts automotive department. Haha
The oem engine bay isn't clear coated so it only needs a scuff to make paint stick. Actually thats all paint needs over clear coat as well. If you use the scotch brite and ajax it will clean and scuff at the same time. I would first degrease the engine bay and power wash if you want. the next is to scuff. We usually use red pads. You will rinse again, reg hose pressure is fine. If you have any areas that have had ethanol or other oils pay special attention to them. Prime any bare metal spots. Buy a tack rag from your local paint or parts store. After cleaning several time tack it down before spraying. You know the rest of thin light coats is key.
DO NOT use wd40 or any other silicone containing sprays in the garage or in the house for several days before clearing. I'm unsure if the aerosol clear could be effected but standard automotive clear fish eyes like a **** if that **** is even misted in the area.
DO NOT use wd40 or any other silicone containing sprays in the garage or in the house for several days before clearing. I'm unsure if the aerosol clear could be effected but standard automotive clear fish eyes like a **** if that **** is even misted in the area.
The oem engine bay isn't clear coated so it only needs a scuff to make paint stick. Actually thats all paint needs over clear coat as well. If you use the scotch brite and ajax it will clean and scuff at the same time. I would first degrease the engine bay and power wash if you want. the next is to scuff. We usually use red pads. You will rinse again, reg hose pressure is fine. If you have any areas that have had ethanol or other oils pay special attention to them. Prime any bare metal spots. Buy a tack rag from your local paint or parts store. After cleaning several time tack it down before spraying. You know the rest of thin light coats is key.
DO NOT use wd40 or any other silicone containing sprays in the garage or in the house for several days before clearing. I'm unsure if the aerosol clear could be effected but standard automotive clear fish eyes like a **** if that **** is even misted in the area.
DO NOT use wd40 or any other silicone containing sprays in the garage or in the house for several days before clearing. I'm unsure if the aerosol clear could be effected but standard automotive clear fish eyes like a **** if that **** is even misted in the area.
as for the tack rag i do not understand what that is. is it a special rag i wipe the surface down with before i prime?
thanks for the tips. it will for sure come in handy.
Yes and it'll be labeled Ajax 
a tack rag is something that is well tacky lol. It'll be in the paint section of most decent automotive stores. When you open it it'll feel sticky. Open it up and wad it loosely. It's used to remove lint,hair and fine dirt from the surface. Before you dive in there are a ton of videos on YouTube and write ups all over. I worked in a body shop for a while and hung around for years after. This is how I did mine and how I've been taught to do most surfaces. Biggest thing is prep.
a tack rag is something that is well tacky lol. It'll be in the paint section of most decent automotive stores. When you open it it'll feel sticky. Open it up and wad it loosely. It's used to remove lint,hair and fine dirt from the surface. Before you dive in there are a ton of videos on YouTube and write ups all over. I worked in a body shop for a while and hung around for years after. This is how I did mine and how I've been taught to do most surfaces. Biggest thing is prep.
Yes and it'll be labeled Ajax a tack rag is something that is well tacky lol. It'll be in the paint section of most decent automotive stores. When you open it it'll feel sticky. Open it up and wad it loosely. It's used to remove lint,hair and fine dirt from the surface. Before you dive in there are a ton of videos on YouTube and write ups all over. I worked in a body shop for a while and hung around for years after. This is how I did mine and how I've been taught to do most surfaces. Biggest thing is prep.
a tack rag is something that is well tacky lol. It'll be in the paint section of most decent automotive stores. When you open it it'll feel sticky. Open it up and wad it loosely. It's used to remove lint,hair and fine dirt from the surface. Before you dive in there are a ton of videos on YouTube and write ups all over. I worked in a body shop for a while and hung around for years after. This is how I did mine and how I've been taught to do most surfaces. Biggest thing is prep.ok great. im hitting the store tomorrow and thanks a lot. i got a engine hoist on its way over to my house friday. i hope to have everything out of the engine bay in 2 weeks.
i am pretty bored so ill post my progress because i have no life. tonight i removed the C.O.P., coolant over flow, UICP, intake, battery tray, and unplugged the crank sensor and front o2. that is all. back to watching TV and eating apple sauce.
