And sell none of them as it would be $3000 lol. I have a few hundred in just asthetic Ti bolts and haven't even scratched the surface compared to Dan. I'd like to get some for the trans mount as the mount kit came with black oxide and as always they have already rusted.

By the way everything is looking nice Dan. The paint chipping can happen. If I'm not in a hurry I put a little masking tape under the washer but as tq is applied it usually cracks the paint away from the metal. Order a touch up pen or keep a spray can and a detail brush around.

 

Weathley is some what right. Guys this Ti stuff is not for everyone. 98% of people will think it is a waste of money and time. To the 2% like my self it is not. It adds a nice look, stronger, and lighter. I will not gut my car out or chop it up more then I already have. Over the winter I plan to change nearly every nut and bolt over to titanium. Wait until you see the box I have built up filled with OEM nuts and bolts. It is also very heavy. Ti is 40% lighter so the savings will be very nice IMO "for nuts and bolts"

Just in cosmetic nuts and bolts I got to be around 650/750 bucks. Not including the engine/trans mount hardware, suspension hardware, and other crap I'm waiting on.

The order BJ and I did was almost 900 bucks. I'd be more then happy to get you guys what you want. But you need to be ready to pay for it. I don't need to make money on anything. Matter a fact I lost money on are order because I priced it wrong and was charged shipping. I am here to help the community and have a good time. Although some secrets are starting to be kept that way haha. I got a few things under rolling around in my head other then marbles

 

False, I'm pretty positive you lost those marbles a while ago....

 

Hot damn DAN! lol... You have TI bolts/nuts ontop of bolts/nuts!

I bet the engine bay is going to be so clean. Keep it up man!

 

HAHAHAHAHHA

thanks man. yea it is getting intense over here. i cant wait to post a finish product. i really hope it looks awesome.




does anyone need TS drive shaft bushings? i bought a set and being i only need half of them because i still have the AWD motorsports drive shaft i do not need the other half of this kit. 25 shipped if anyone is interested.

 

I also have two TS driveshaft bushings if anyones wants a full set lol, same price as dan.

 

how dare you steel my thunder. 24.99 SHIPPED. shizit son.

 

Sick build and getting crazy.

Most titanium hardware is actually weaker then grade 8 hardware. Most are cut threads instead of rolled and the head is machined instead of forged. This greatly reduces the fatigue strength of the bolts. Lots of companies also use 140ksi material where the grade 8 equivalent are 160ksi.

I wonder if some gun drilled L19 bolts with hollowed heads would be lighter yet maintain good fatigue strength.

 

i certainly do not need grade 8 to hold my valve cover on or other things in the engine bay. IMO as long as the bolt holds the OEM trq specs it is plenty strong enough. i was able to bend a M10 OEM bolt in the vise. i ruined a ti bolt by cutting it so i tried to also bend it and i literally was pulling my body off the ground. maybe it is weaker when stretched? i am not sure.

i have Ti on the driveshaft to rear diff nuts and bolts, ti crank pulley bolts, ti water pump bolts, ti cam gear and sensor bolts, and some other stuff. the test is on. LOL.

 

That's a pretty open questions. I'm far from an engineer but you have to look at sheer and torsion loads. Most SS stuff isn't grade 8 either so if it had stainless in it before then I wouldn't worry too much. The ds to diff I might be concerned with and would check specs of oem to the new Ti. I'd primarily look at sheer in that case. Same thing with suspension bolts. I'm sure you'll be fine but it wont take long to do comparison since you already know the metals and sizes used I'm assuming.

Anyone more versed in that field please correct me if I'm wrong. Bolts sheer, twist or pull apart is usually the 3 ways they fail.

 

Ha for sure no concern at all about valve cover bolts. Just talk about suspension and brake bolts is the only thing I'd be concerned about.

One of the race bolt places has a grade 8 titanium equivalent that uses rolled threads and forged heads. Seemed like they were about 50% more than the other places selling titanium hardware. You could probably drop a few pound out of the suspension and brake hardware, it would just cost $1000+ for those few pounds.

Edit:
http://store.mettec.com/
They do forged head flange bolts with rolled threads. They use Ti6Al4V which is 160ksi tensile strength material (same as Grade 8 and Metric 10.9 hardware). I would trust these in place of the standard automotive grade fasteners.

Material strength is only a fraction of what's important when it comes to fasteners. Sure, a bolt with cut threads and machined head is just as strong as a good bolt when you install it. I'd be far more concerned after some stress cycles where the cut threads operate as stress risers and the grain structure at the head is all wrong because it was machined instead of forged.

To answer my own question though, the weight of a hollow ARP 625 fastener in M12 size that was hogged out as much as possible would only save about 10% weight for the same fastener strength. If you need a metric 12.9 fastener, I wouldn't use titanium, but for Grade 8 and Metric 10.9 fasteners, it looks like you can't really beat titanium hardware for weight, they just need to be made right.

 

I think Dan is being lazy..............

 

I cant say the strength of ti... But i can say at 600hp/525tq i sheered off the bolts that connect my front half of my ds to the center section. I replaced them with 8.8 autozone bolts and they held up really well so far... I would hope a $20 ti bolt would be stronger then a 4pk of 8.8 for 3bucks...

Ps. If you are concerned about them at all dan you can probably drill out the flange and upgrade from m8 to m10... Or at least i think they were m8... Been a long time...
The taper of the ds side of the flange might have to be adjusted to fit the larger hardware but i'm sure you can figure that out if you think its necessary

 

Not much to update. Manifold was test fitted and fit perfect. It was sent out to he final welded and then being shipped to head games for porting.

Other then that I put the bumper back on, fender liner plastics, and finished up the wiring using the new zip tie push clips I got.

As for the Ti driveshaft I thought about upgrading to the next size up but never really looked into it. I'll look into it this week and see if it can be done or if there is enough room to drill the holes larger.

 

Shearing the driveshaft bolts could have just been improper torque? The friction between the mating surfaces due to the clamping load of the fasteners provides the resistance to shear at the bolted connection. Only time those fasteners should see shear loads is if you lose the clamping load.