Evodan2004 has lost his mind part 3. The new changes and goals for 2013.
ok here is my update. im literally out of things to do. well maybe not but once i get the manifold back from head games the car should start. ill post pics up of the double pumper i made soon. sorry for the crappy pics. camera is dead so i used my phone
brakes....... front giro disc rotors anodized black to match the rear wilwood rotors. also i had the front brembo and rear wilwood calipers powder coated black so everything looks ''stealthy'' thanks to antilag for the anodizing of my front rotor hats.


drive shaft...... i bought the TS carrier bushings and new OEM nuts. sorry there not Ti. LOL. anyways i did not like that the nut flange was much smaller then the bushing. so i found a washer with a M10 hole and it was nearly as wide as the bushing. so this IMO is the best way to mount these. it also stops the nut from digging in and eating up the bushing over time.

here are the Ti nuts and bolts holding the drive shaft to the rear diff. when i bought these i only bought 4 because i planned to do the carbon 1 piece drive shaft. i still plan to but for now the AWD 2 piece will have to do. i need to order another 4 nuts, blots, washers in Ti for the middle of the drive shaft. since i have to order these bits i guess ill add a few other things to the mix. SIGH.
i also looked into going from M8 to M10 on the drive shaft. it can be done but the only thing that worries me is a properly sized nut. i like to use nuts with flanges on them. so ill order 1 M10 nut and see if it fits. i dont think it will though. if it does ill upgrade all 8 of them. thanks joseph143 for putting this back into my head

exterior........ nothing crazy but here is what is going on. front bumper is back on. i had MP-Fab make me a custom plate bracket. i built one out of steel a few years ago and it was hib, bulky, and very crappy. i sent it to MP-Fab and he made me one that was 80% lighter ''1.5lbs'' and a hell of a lot stronger. i do not want to show how it is mounted. its kinda ''my thing'' but there are ZERO holes in the bumper. i also used Ti to mount everything HEHEHEH.

brakes....... front giro disc rotors anodized black to match the rear wilwood rotors. also i had the front brembo and rear wilwood calipers powder coated black so everything looks ''stealthy'' thanks to antilag for the anodizing of my front rotor hats.


drive shaft...... i bought the TS carrier bushings and new OEM nuts. sorry there not Ti. LOL. anyways i did not like that the nut flange was much smaller then the bushing. so i found a washer with a M10 hole and it was nearly as wide as the bushing. so this IMO is the best way to mount these. it also stops the nut from digging in and eating up the bushing over time.

here are the Ti nuts and bolts holding the drive shaft to the rear diff. when i bought these i only bought 4 because i planned to do the carbon 1 piece drive shaft. i still plan to but for now the AWD 2 piece will have to do. i need to order another 4 nuts, blots, washers in Ti for the middle of the drive shaft. since i have to order these bits i guess ill add a few other things to the mix. SIGH.
i also looked into going from M8 to M10 on the drive shaft. it can be done but the only thing that worries me is a properly sized nut. i like to use nuts with flanges on them. so ill order 1 M10 nut and see if it fits. i dont think it will though. if it does ill upgrade all 8 of them. thanks joseph143 for putting this back into my head

exterior........ nothing crazy but here is what is going on. front bumper is back on. i had MP-Fab make me a custom plate bracket. i built one out of steel a few years ago and it was hib, bulky, and very crappy. i sent it to MP-Fab and he made me one that was 80% lighter ''1.5lbs'' and a hell of a lot stronger. i do not want to show how it is mounted. its kinda ''my thing'' but there are ZERO holes in the bumper. i also used Ti to mount everything HEHEHEH.

Last edited by EvoDan2004; Sep 3, 2013 at 04:50 PM.
Shearing the driveshaft bolts could have just been improper torque? The friction between the mating surfaces due to the clamping load of the fasteners provides the resistance to shear at the bolted connection. Only time those fasteners should see shear loads is if you lose the clamping load.
if you can find one buy a vacuum bleeder... one that hooks up to shop air... i used that on a few car recently and it makes a bleed job 5minutes start to finish if the wheels are off... one person can do it no problem.
another great one man method is you get clear vacuum line the size of the bleed nipple... and a gatorade bottle... punch 2 holes just smaller then the line in the cap... push them into the very very bottom of the bottle. fill it 1/4 the way with your favorite brake drink and then open the bleeders. pump pump pump. the line being under the fluid level don't allow air to back feed and viola... since their is still a good bit of pumping involved its not my favorite method. i'm lazy...
pretty clever plate bracket idea... i might have to steel that... get it? steel that? ahahahahaahaha
another great one man method is you get clear vacuum line the size of the bleed nipple... and a gatorade bottle... punch 2 holes just smaller then the line in the cap... push them into the very very bottom of the bottle. fill it 1/4 the way with your favorite brake drink and then open the bleeders. pump pump pump. the line being under the fluid level don't allow air to back feed and viola... since their is still a good bit of pumping involved its not my favorite method. i'm lazy...
pretty clever plate bracket idea... i might have to steel that... get it? steel that? ahahahahaahaha
if you can find one buy a vacuum bleeder... one that hooks up to shop air... i used that on a few car recently and it makes a bleed job 5minutes start to finish if the wheels are off... one person can do it no problem.
another great one man method is you get clear vacuum line the size of the bleed nipple... and a gatorade bottle... punch 2 holes just smaller then the line in the cap... push them into the very very bottom of the bottle. fill it 1/4 the way with your favorite brake drink and then open the bleeders. pump pump pump. the line being under the fluid level don't allow air to back feed and viola... since their is still a good bit of pumping involved its not my favorite method. i'm lazy...
pretty clever plate bracket idea... i might have to steel that... get it? steel that? ahahahahaahaha
another great one man method is you get clear vacuum line the size of the bleed nipple... and a gatorade bottle... punch 2 holes just smaller then the line in the cap... push them into the very very bottom of the bottle. fill it 1/4 the way with your favorite brake drink and then open the bleeders. pump pump pump. the line being under the fluid level don't allow air to back feed and viola... since their is still a good bit of pumping involved its not my favorite method. i'm lazy...
pretty clever plate bracket idea... i might have to steel that... get it? steel that? ahahahahaahaha
Picked up my new tires yesterday. Also my new catch cans came in along with more titanium hardware. Also some other stuff. I'll get pics posted soon once everything is installed.
Last edited by EvoDan2004; Sep 14, 2013 at 01:10 PM.
it has been a long time since i posted. its not that i am not doing anything it is just that i am upset with delays and other BS which is holding me back. so its like a lost interest. anyways while waiting on some parts i had my CNC'ed seat bases completed. at the shootout i made some new friends. one guy lives 10 minutes from me. i have known about him for a long time but never really got to know him until the shootout. when we got back home we hung out a few times and i was allowed to look at his 1G talon. which he totally restored and built 98% of the car him self. i really liked his work so i asked him if he would help me finish my seat bases. the guy who built them is very busy with GTR stuff and other projects i felt i should just finish it my self. Kurt came over a dozen times to take measurements and test fit each piece as it was made. here are some pics. everything was finalized and bolted together with Titanium hardware. the pics below are for the passenger seat. the driver seat has a 5 point harness so is basically the same as the passenger side without the seat belt setup.









after many months of waiting my custom made one off Full-Race manifold is here. i am going to make this short. initially we wanted to make it out of inconel material. but the cost of the material was over 2K and that did not include building the manifold. my budget did not allow for a 2K manifold. so we went with big runner SCH-5 runners, custom casted head flange and the manifold was sent to headgames to be ported and smoothed out. i only have these pics. this manifold is 5lbs lighter then my small runner SCH-40 setup.



its pretty much installed and completed i just haven't taken any pics.
also ill get some finished pics up of the catch cans, rims/tires, and some other stuff. for the few who have been following this i am sorry for the long delay.









after many months of waiting my custom made one off Full-Race manifold is here. i am going to make this short. initially we wanted to make it out of inconel material. but the cost of the material was over 2K and that did not include building the manifold. my budget did not allow for a 2K manifold. so we went with big runner SCH-5 runners, custom casted head flange and the manifold was sent to headgames to be ported and smoothed out. i only have these pics. this manifold is 5lbs lighter then my small runner SCH-40 setup.



its pretty much installed and completed i just haven't taken any pics.
also ill get some finished pics up of the catch cans, rims/tires, and some other stuff. for the few who have been following this i am sorry for the long delay.
i can not wait to get this installed. by friend Mike wrapped this for me. it came out amazing. i may do a few other things.

and here is a teaser pic of the rear rims and tire.

and here is a teaser pic of the rear rims and tire.


