I'm jealous of your stable of cars. Whats up with the 1g? Is it going to hitting the track anytime soon?

 

Looking great Warren! Did you use dt or dtm connectors? Your plugs look much larger than mine and I think the pins are different. The pins from my 55 cannon plug are the same as the rest of my stuff.

 

Can you provide a part number for the plug you used and which turret was needed for the plug? Thanks

 

Excellent job man! The wiring came out perfect. Where did you end up mounting the fuse boxes though? Did not see any pictures of them?

 

The 1g needs to be taken apart and I need to freshen up the engine, also the car uses an afc for tuning, so I want to convert the car over to an evo engine harness and ecu control, or move to a haltech, so with that large of a project, I would forsee it making a pass maybe early next season.

Yesterday Jeremy and I did a little tuning on the colt, we hit 37 psi with the 18g ( yeah a little much), we are really close to finding MBT on the car. Aaron the car is completely useless at that power level on the street, blowing the street tires in third gear

Thanks Matt, I used the dt Connectors for anything with deutsch connections. The pins were between 18ga and 22ga, vs 20ga to 26ga of the amphenol connection. I tell you after using these types of connections, I won't go to anything else in the future. I really need to source a place that sells the OEM pins and connectors for the sensor sides, that way when I make another harness, everything will be brand new.

thats really an open ended question, As some turrets are different based on vintage of the tool you are using. I would suggest to you that you go on DMC website as it will help you understand what pin size for turret selection. They simplify things on there. Remember the turret is specific to what GAUGE of wire you are using and consequently just make sure the turret size is for that pin./

thanks, the fuse boxes are located between the heater control and the side of the glove box, that way I still have the functionality of my glove box. However, in that location, I can't put the cover on for the big fuse box.

 

Thats an even better spot than where they come from the factory. Any fuse box you can keep in the cab is way better than out in the elements. Alot nicer than some others I've seen too trying to mount it in the driver fender or some other shady spots. Got any pics of it?

 

Time for some sticky street tires, lol.

 

wow that C.O.P. setup is bad *** man. great job. can we get a full engine bay shot?

 

I took your advice (its now 420am) and did some reading. Basically its the same setup as yours (minus the narrow wall mount flange vs your jam nut). I didnt see if you had to tackle the issue of shielded wires (o2 & knock) that I will with my evo, but if so Im curious as to how you properly handle them with mil-spec connectors.

Here is my purchase list in case anyone wants to spare themselves hours of endless research:
MS3476L22-55P Circular MIL Spec Connector 55P Size 22 Plug Male Pins MIL-DTL-26482 II Matrix
MS3470L22-55S Circular MIL Spec Connector WALL MNT REC NARROW FLANGE SKT 55P SZ 20
M85049/60-1N22 Circular MIL Spec Strain Reliefs & Adapters BACKSHELL SHR BOOT ADPTR ST NIC SZ 22
M22520/1-01 DMC AF8, qualified to MIL-DTL-22520/1*, M22520/1-01 Standard Adjustable Crimp Tool
M22520/1-02 DMC TH1A Turret

Sadly the backshells were backordered and hopefully I didnt order any of the wrong parts lol

 

Interested in your feedback on the Magnus filter...

 

I will see if I can get some pics of it



I will try and get some engine shots showing it , thanks dan, I am considering buying your coil protectors and modifying them to my needs. Will let you know.

I will try to answer your question in a separate post in a few

Any thing that Marco MAKES IS BADASS, thats all I can really say its annodized and you know I am the biggest annodized junkie around

 

Those part numbers look correct to me, only difference I had was using a JAM nut recepticle versus the wall mount like you have... it is alot of reading isn't it, but now you can read a 12 digit military code and know exactly what that connection is

What I did with the sheilded wires, is stripped back the sheilding section and ran that as close as possible to the connection, then I soldered some wire to the sheilded part and sent that to a groundwire. that way, the signal wire ( o2 or knock) had adequate grounding and sheilding if that makes sense.

here is a picture that found online that illustrates what I did, except I did it at the firewall. Hopefully that helps you

 

Great thanks for that. I guess I messed up because while I have 36 or so wires that will fit the size 20 contacts I still have 16 or so that would require something larger, what appears to be up to a size 12 contact.

How were you able to keep all the wires at 20-24AWG? Problem is that there isnt a connector that can offer me the proper ratio of contact sizes within the MIL-DTL-26482 Series 2 Matrix connectors. I certainly dont want to buy another turret and get rid of these connectors either

 

That's a ridiculous amount of work...that I will never do. haha

 

Well I had all the same contacts in the shells that I used. the 14 ga wire will fit without a problem in the 20 contact. However the 12 ga ones are a challenge. What I did for those , is split that wire into Two EQUIVALENT gage wires. I use the term equivalent, as you simply can't use two 20ga wires to substiture one 12 ga wire. If memory serves me right I used two 14ga wires that then tied into the 12ga. Now There are two contacts supplied for the one 12ga wire. Repeat the process for the other side of the connector

clear as mud ?