And I'm not going to argue with you lol, you know much more than I do. I was just stating the numbers I saw. My bad if I came off wanting to prove you wrong.

 

I run direzza star specs 265/35/18 on 18x9.5 +22. No rolled fenders. I'm about 56" FTG all around and only rub in the rear on hard bumps.

 

"only rub in the rear on hard bumps."

That's rubbing.

+15 would be even worse.

Btw, measuring fender to center line is a better, more accurate way.

 

this guy knows what he is talking about in general and this topic is no different.

i have that setup (265/35/18 Michelin PSS on enkei raijin 18x9.5 +15), even with -1.75* camber, i very much so had to roll my fenders. when i was on swift spec r springs it was very apparent, once on ohlins with 600# rear spring, not anymore.

the only way you wouldn't is some combination of the below:
if you are stock ride height
never put anyone in the back seat
run a crap ton of negative rear camber
run very high rear spring rates

 

Guess what.... I FIGURED THIS SOB FUELING ISSUE OUT!!!!!

I started tuning the car on 91 octane since I'm going to track it on 91 and the AFR issues where just bugging the hell out of me. Sometimes it would be lean, sometimes rich, sometimes the AFR would just stick.

Basically all the stuff I posted about before, driving me nuts, especially on the less forgiving 91 octane fuel.

On a whim I decided to rewire the power for the Zeitronix. Before I had it tapped into a power wire on the passenger side. This time I decided to use a Add A Fuse like I did with my Sportback. I ran the wire to the interior drivers side fusebox, and used the Cigarette lighter fuse position. (7.5A)

Started the car up and guess what, the gawdamn thing works perfect now. It responds to throttle changes like a proper wideband and never sticks.

Can't believe I've been so lazy not to check this simple thing. When I did a couple pulls yesterday on 91 octane I couldnt get the car to go richer than 11.8 AFR, and it would only show that a couple times.

After rewiring today. WOT now instantly drops to 10.6. Haha. Now it makes me wonder wtf AFR I was running on E85, probably pretty rich, which would ALSO explain my high IDC's.

SMH. I can be a lazy idiot sometimes. So glad I finally got this working correctly.

 

Do you do etunes?

 

glad you figured it out.

this is an interesting commentary on how companies design their wideband controllers. while zeitronix and, i suspect, aem controllers will spit out inaccurate afr values, an lc-1 would have errored out. of course the biggest gripe out the lc-1 is that it errors out.

 

I also wish that they would tell you the controllers need a strong power source. I had no idea. I thought power was power, apparently I was incorrect but electricity has never been my strong field either.

 

yeah, the heater in the wideband can pull up to 5 amps. its not a lot, but its not a little either. if the sensor can't maintain temperature, ...

 

I was quiet taken/surprised when you went for Ambit...
The NTO3+M look awesome and are proper track-wheel, coupled to great Yoko tires - you can drive to track enjoy the track, and drive back, with the same tire/wheel. Makes it for a great day without stress and hurry to mount track tires. Arrive and Drive!

 

Are you going to be at Thunderhill on March 22nd?

 

Sorry, I wasn't trying to contradict what you were saying.. Just throwing out a little "nugget", so they say.. I just recently cut the inner lip out, instead of rolling the fenders. I no longer have any rubbing issues, even with the 5mm spacer I added, all around.

 

I've been fine tuning the car on 91 octane at low boost for the track.

I have something that I'm leaning towards it being a boost leak somewhere. Wanted to post this to the forum and use you guys as a sanity check.

So here is the car on a single 3rd gear pull from 3K. Notice the WGDC numbers and the dip and noodley mid range.

http://datazap.me/u/razorlab/singleg...&zoom=886-1052

Now, take a look if I do a more normal quick stab to WOT in 3rd at around 4K:

http://datazap.me/u/razorlab/3rd4thp...-3&zoom=12-224

Crazy boost spike then immediate drop to 17psi (even with not much WGDCc) and bigger boost spike after the shift with another big boost drop.

This is text book boost leak right?

 

I used to see that kind of behavior when I was running stock exhaust. As soon as I swapped to a TBE, the wavy boost response went away.

Can't you do a boost leak test?

 

Yea I do know what you are talking about, however, did you see the second log with the 9psi+ boost swings?

http://datazap.me/u/razorlab/3rd4thp...-3&zoom=12-224

I don't work at the shop anymore so I don't have access to a compressor and other things. Makes it a little harder nowadays.