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Old Oct 24, 2017, 04:14 PM
  #886  
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Originally Posted by Erik@MIL.SPEC
Question unrelated to all your motor gremlins.

How effective is the inconel shielding at reducing underhood temps?

Is it noticeable? Enquiring minds want to know ��
I'd like to know as well. I had originally planned to send my hot bits to Swaintech for a coating. Wonder how these heat shields compare and also if they are heavy.
Old Oct 24, 2017, 04:30 PM
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Not sure the best way to measure effectiveness for you guys. It doesn't seem crazy hot after driving the car around town. True test is whenever I make it back to the track.

The shielding itself is very light. If you have ever held a piece of OEM inconel shielding (like on the Evo X firewall or on the chassis above the exhaust), it's basically the same.
Old Oct 24, 2017, 08:57 PM
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Originally Posted by razorlab
Currently E79. It's in the log.

It was knocking off idle when leaving from a stop, normal driving around town with throttle inputs, WOT, etc. Was driving me crazy.

I basically had ignition timing lower than 91 oct pump gas, on E79.

that does sound like mechanical noise and not knock... When I did the GSC S2 install Aaron told me to adjust the knock tables to get rid of phantom knock.. Glad it seems to be working out for you too..
Old Oct 24, 2017, 09:25 PM
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Originally Posted by kikiturbo
that does sound like mechanical noise and not knock... When I did the GSC S2 install Aaron told me to adjust the knock tables to get rid of phantom knock.. Glad it seems to be working out for you too..
How much did you end up adjusting them?
Old Oct 25, 2017, 12:16 AM
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I left my laptop at home, I will take a look when I get back..
Old Oct 26, 2017, 08:34 AM
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Oil feed fitting at the turbo (the one that was loose) is now officially leaking. Coated the center cartridge housing, luckily I smelled it and checked before it had a chance to catch on fire.

Car is now garaged until the shop that put it together gets back from his Europe trip. :-/

Good side is now I have a bunch of time so I can swap the intake manifold and throttle body and install the secondary knock sensor.
Old Oct 26, 2017, 11:26 AM
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That sucks man. I don't think I would have the patience to let the car sit lol
Old Oct 26, 2017, 12:41 PM
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Originally Posted by letsgetthisdone
That sucks man. I don't think I would have the patience to let the car sit lol
Tell me about it. This last year with this damn thing has tested my patience in ways I didn't know where possible.

It's also SUPER frustrating that I can't just unscrew the damn fitting or simply tighten it.

I was actually to the point of brainstorming last night how I could dremel cut the L part off enough to allow the fitting to turn without getting any shavings into the turbo. lol.

If I didn't have the luxury of having a second fun car I probably would have gone postal by now.
Old Oct 26, 2017, 12:44 PM
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shove some grease in it and cut it LOL. Get a straight fitting, and a line with a 90* swivel.
Old Oct 26, 2017, 12:45 PM
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Originally Posted by letsgetthisdone
shove some grease in it and cut it LOL.
LOL, that is EXACTLY what I was brainstorming. lmao.
Old Oct 26, 2017, 01:43 PM
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It would work. Use a grease needle to make sure it gets fully filled up.
Old Oct 26, 2017, 01:56 PM
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As far as turning the knock sensitivity up, Its needed as the engine goes farther from the way Mitsubishi built it. Aftermarket pistons/rods/cams are going to change harmonics.

Can you stick it on the dyno on low smoothing and run the timing up/down to see what it likes. If you needed to test the sensor/real knock you could purposely knock it at low boost if you wanted to.

It would save alot of time and you would have a clear answer on the engines performance. Its alot easier to see exactly whats happening on a dyno vs road logs and ecuflashsums.

Last edited by Abacus; Oct 26, 2017 at 03:40 PM.
Old Oct 27, 2017, 06:30 AM
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Originally Posted by letsgetthisdone
It would work. Use a grease needle to make sure it gets fully filled up.
The fitting would heat up enough to make the grease flow. JB Weld or something more resistant to heat should work though.
Old Oct 27, 2017, 09:11 AM
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Originally Posted by mrfred
The fitting would heat up enough to make the grease flow. JB Weld or something more resistant to heat should work though.
I'd be weary of accidently shooting JB Weld into my turbos center cartridge. Lol.

There has to be hi-temp grease that wouldn't start to flow at dremel cutting temp?

I haven't yet checked to see if I can even fit my dremel into the area anyway...
Old Oct 27, 2017, 09:14 AM
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Originally Posted by mrfred
The fitting would heat up enough to make the grease flow. JB Weld or something more resistant to heat should work though.
The oil inlet has a large area to fill after the fitting. If it were to fill completely, some of the grease getting hot enough to flow wouldn't be an issue.


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