MIL.SPEC lightweight 2.3 MR build
#271
Newbie
UPDATE:
So, um, like building a car is like working through therapy (or so I'm going to guess). LOT OF ISSUES.
First off, I can't believe the last post I have in this thread is over 4 years old.
Second, **** HAPPENS, MAN. Like COVID upending your life. I live in freaking Oklahoma, now.
Third, about 2 years ago (April 2022), everything finally got installed and put together. I happend to be in LA and with the car at KT Motoring when it got cranked over. That was exciting. THEN...
At some point (awhile later) a cam gear slipped and car bent a valve. Head was pulled. Valve was fixed. Car was put back together. THEN...
Car was restarted and made a funny noise. Car was turned off, engine diagnosed, and weird wear showed up on the thrust bearings. Enter NEW CRANKSHAFT.
Then, I got a text this week and was sent this...(video attached).
So, she's alive. EIGHT years after I started this thread. And over 1.5 years since car was first started up. So, I'll say two things:
1) Life is weird.
2) I'm excited to get her back and tuned, and then getting a Speed Density FlexFuel E85 tune from John Bradley.
I'm actually tempted to sell the FP Red and get the Art Gennari 57mm turbo, since it fits the Red turbine housing (It's essentially a Zephyr that can attach to an MHI housing). Push an extra 25 - 40 whp and be done with it without being tempted by the FP Black.
Also, since I don't have to deal with CARB anymore (no smog in Oklahoma), I am pretty sure I'll throw on a Magnus intake manifold.
Think that's it. Thanks to everyone that has been a part of the rollercoaster of a thread lol
So, um, like building a car is like working through therapy (or so I'm going to guess). LOT OF ISSUES.
First off, I can't believe the last post I have in this thread is over 4 years old.
Second, **** HAPPENS, MAN. Like COVID upending your life. I live in freaking Oklahoma, now.
Third, about 2 years ago (April 2022), everything finally got installed and put together. I happend to be in LA and with the car at KT Motoring when it got cranked over. That was exciting. THEN...
At some point (awhile later) a cam gear slipped and car bent a valve. Head was pulled. Valve was fixed. Car was put back together. THEN...
Car was restarted and made a funny noise. Car was turned off, engine diagnosed, and weird wear showed up on the thrust bearings. Enter NEW CRANKSHAFT.
Then, I got a text this week and was sent this...(video attached).
So, she's alive. EIGHT years after I started this thread. And over 1.5 years since car was first started up. So, I'll say two things:
1) Life is weird.
2) I'm excited to get her back and tuned, and then getting a Speed Density FlexFuel E85 tune from John Bradley.
I'm actually tempted to sell the FP Red and get the Art Gennari 57mm turbo, since it fits the Red turbine housing (It's essentially a Zephyr that can attach to an MHI housing). Push an extra 25 - 40 whp and be done with it without being tempted by the FP Black.
Also, since I don't have to deal with CARB anymore (no smog in Oklahoma), I am pretty sure I'll throw on a Magnus intake manifold.
Think that's it. Thanks to everyone that has been a part of the rollercoaster of a thread lol
The following users liked this post:
MIL.SPEC Erik (Jan 11, 2024)
#273
Newbie
Thanks.
Yeah, so many new parts lol. Yesterday I was like, "There's a 57mm MHI bolt on that is 65#/min vs 61#/min HTZ Red????" I NEED lolol
I feel like there should be a support group for car builds. Obviously mine is probably WAY longer than most, but so much can happen. In hindsight, I may have opted for a much simpler build than what I did (not that I regret anything).
Like, I'm not worried about the MAF sensor and other little things with the car right now. Just want it running (which it is) and tuned (which it is not yet) so I can get the break in miles in and worry about 4" intake, speed density, etc, etc.
I do hope that it revs quick with all the lightening/friction mods I've done, but time will tell. Running is better than perfect lol
Yeah, so many new parts lol. Yesterday I was like, "There's a 57mm MHI bolt on that is 65#/min vs 61#/min HTZ Red????" I NEED lolol
I feel like there should be a support group for car builds. Obviously mine is probably WAY longer than most, but so much can happen. In hindsight, I may have opted for a much simpler build than what I did (not that I regret anything).
Like, I'm not worried about the MAF sensor and other little things with the car right now. Just want it running (which it is) and tuned (which it is not yet) so I can get the break in miles in and worry about 4" intake, speed density, etc, etc.
I do hope that it revs quick with all the lightening/friction mods I've done, but time will tell. Running is better than perfect lol
#274
Evolved Member
iTrader: (20)
Yes..and no. If I could pick between a ct9a built with the newest parts vs one built with "old new" parts. Id pick the old one. Cars just seem to do better when modified with parts made and designed for that era. period correct isn't just a term for aesthetics. Plus with the exception of engine management systems I don't really see the major advance in engine/turbocharger engineering in the last 10-15 years things sort of hit a peak back then and just got more efficient since then is all.
#275
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (3)
Yes..and no. If I could pick between a ct9a built with the newest parts vs one built with "old new" parts. Id pick the old one. Cars just seem to do better when modified with parts made and designed for that era. period correct isn't just a term for aesthetics. Plus with the exception of engine management systems I don't really see the major advance in engine/turbocharger engineering in the last 10-15 years things sort of hit a peak back then and just got more efficient since then is all.
#277
Newbie
Well, I bought it used on the forums (OEM 4G64 crank) and had a bunch of **** done to it. (meaning a bunch of different hands touched it).
Sent it to some super-flakey crankshaft shop in SoCal to make sure it was true and balanced, etc. Then, I sent it to FFWD Motorsports to have them machine the counterweights and lighten it and balanced (their Vader crank..BTW I just checked and they don't offer the service anymore). I then had a top level machine shop check the work, and they said it needed to be balanced more.
Long story short, I don't know.
UPDATE: The leak they were chasing in the video I attached ended up being the oil pump was leaking from the case (shop said that was a new one). It was a brand new pump, BTW. Swapped with new pump and leak went away.
Also, seals on the FP Red seemed to be bad (smoke in the exhaust), so turbo is being sent back to FP. (Shop swapped in Evo 9 turbo and smoke went away).
I swear, either something is seriously wrong somewhere or I've had an inordinate amount of gremlins to deal with lol
Oh well, at this point, things seem to be good. Once we get the turbo back from FP, engine will get broken in.
Sent it to some super-flakey crankshaft shop in SoCal to make sure it was true and balanced, etc. Then, I sent it to FFWD Motorsports to have them machine the counterweights and lighten it and balanced (their Vader crank..BTW I just checked and they don't offer the service anymore). I then had a top level machine shop check the work, and they said it needed to be balanced more.
Long story short, I don't know.
UPDATE: The leak they were chasing in the video I attached ended up being the oil pump was leaking from the case (shop said that was a new one). It was a brand new pump, BTW. Swapped with new pump and leak went away.
Also, seals on the FP Red seemed to be bad (smoke in the exhaust), so turbo is being sent back to FP. (Shop swapped in Evo 9 turbo and smoke went away).
I swear, either something is seriously wrong somewhere or I've had an inordinate amount of gremlins to deal with lol
Oh well, at this point, things seem to be good. Once we get the turbo back from FP, engine will get broken in.
#278
Newbie
I hate to disagee with you on that but I am going to lol. I mean there are better quality, better material parts like rods and pistons that make a difference in the way cars will react to them. Hell even clutch stuff has come a long way and those are major parts of the car. I would never ever, ever buy ACT anything 10 years ago but now with them changing a bunch of stuff and making their clutches better I now have one in the car and I push it a ton and for the most part it holds. I mean it handles 875 or something like that tq, but to the flywheel where I am making that at the wheels and does it slip? yeah it does but only for a split second and even with organic discs. That is the kinda stuff I am talking about. I would never do that with any organic clutch 10 years ago.
In my car, the rods a billet and the pistons are billet. Hopefully that's "good enough." Aby had them design the piston tops according to his spec with proper dish.
At this point, I just want to drive the damn thing lol
#279
Evolved Member
iTrader: (3)
Sorry was just asking, wasn't sure if you thought when you jump timing it hurt the crank.
Also I get sticking with your turbo and not wanting to go down a rabbit hole. I have an FP black and I could make more power with it but I just don't really feel like doing a double pump and doing all that comes with it.
Also I get sticking with your turbo and not wanting to go down a rabbit hole. I have an FP black and I could make more power with it but I just don't really feel like doing a double pump and doing all that comes with it.
#281
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (3)
After thinking about it, I think I'm just going to keep the FP Red. I don't need to go down another parts rabbit hole, especially since those new issues crept up.
In my car, the rods a billet and the pistons are billet. Hopefully that's "good enough." Aby had them design the piston tops according to his spec with proper dish.
At this point, I just want to drive the damn thing lol
In my car, the rods a billet and the pistons are billet. Hopefully that's "good enough." Aby had them design the piston tops according to his spec with proper dish.
At this point, I just want to drive the damn thing lol
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