MIL.SPEC lightweight 2.3 MR build
cool pistons Eric !!! and nice build too..
did you get the blanket back? do you think it will fit the newer s/s FP housing with the waste gate outlet? i have a green...been looking for something that i can maybe try and fit on it...
did you get the blanket back? do you think it will fit the newer s/s FP housing with the waste gate outlet? i have a green...been looking for something that i can maybe try and fit on it...
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This is only for the OEM MHI housing. If you'd want one for the new FP housing, they'd need a turbo to use as a template.
Last edited by Erik@MIL.SPEC; Aug 9, 2015 at 11:03 PM.
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The title of this post is "can't leave well enough alone."
This is what happens when parts sit around in my office too long waiting on everything to get ready for assembly.
Saw a video on WPC vs micro polished. It ended up costing me $175 lol
Here's the damn video:
Here's the crank with the official little sticker on it:

Windage tray and rods will be back from Swain soon with an oil shedding coating. Just waiting on the head before she is ready to be put together.
This is what happens when parts sit around in my office too long waiting on everything to get ready for assembly.
Saw a video on WPC vs micro polished. It ended up costing me $175 lol
Here's the damn video:
Here's the crank with the official little sticker on it:

Windage tray and rods will be back from Swain soon with an oil shedding coating. Just waiting on the head before she is ready to be put together.
Last edited by Erik@MIL.SPEC; Aug 21, 2015 at 07:16 PM.
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Oil galleries cleaned and tapped? Yes
Oil holes chamfered? Yes
Nitriding? Yes
Cryotreated? Yes
Lightened? Yes
Oil Shedding Coating? Yes
WPC treatment? Yes
I'll take a pic of some of the additional parts this weekend I've gotten this weekend.
-Erik
Last edited by Erik@MIL.SPEC; Aug 21, 2015 at 07:28 PM.
That crank has had more work done than Caitlyn Jenner.
Oil galleries cleaned and tapped? Yes
Oil holes chamfered? Yes
Nitriding? Yes
Cryotreated? Yes
Lightened? Yes
Oil Shedding Coating? Yes
WPC treatment? Yes
I'll take a pic of some of the additional parts this weekend I've gotten this weekend.
-Erik
Oil galleries cleaned and tapped? Yes
Oil holes chamfered? Yes
Nitriding? Yes
Cryotreated? Yes
Lightened? Yes
Oil Shedding Coating? Yes
WPC treatment? Yes
I'll take a pic of some of the additional parts this weekend I've gotten this weekend.
-Erik
So after all the work done to the crank, if you don't mind sharing, how much have you spent on it?
Keep coming with the updates!
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You may have created the best of all worlds crankshaft. Can't wait to see it get put to use. Love the thought process that you are using on this build.
So after all the work done to the crank, if you don't mind sharing, how much have you spent on it?
Keep coming with the updates!
So after all the work done to the crank, if you don't mind sharing, how much have you spent on it?
Keep coming with the updates!
I never like to add up the costs of things, but here you go:
4G64 Crank: Like $300 or so on Ebay.
BASIC CLEAN UP: Chamfered oil holes, galleries cleaned and tapped, initial balanced, journals micropolished and crank nitrided: FREE (This highly-regarded crankshaft shop had my crank for over 6 months, messed up one of the taps and had to re-thread it, and didn't even supply me with an invoice after I finally got the crank back. I asked for an invoice 3 times. So I said to myself, "F-it, I'm not chasing you for money that I owe you. If you want it, you know where to find me." They still haven't asked for anything.
FFWD BUTCHERING: Lightening and balancing to within .1 ounce/inches of tolerance. Oil-shedding coating and cryotreating. $680 + $75 for cryo. TOTAL: $775
WPC: Had the journals WPC treated. (I get a discount because of MIL.SPEC). $175 including shipping.
TOTAL: $1250
So, from my point of view, I got a fully massaged/treated crank that's almost 1/3 the cost of a Winberg crank. And the 4 pounds I give up on the Winberg I can get back other places, like with a lightened flywheel.
If I were doing a huge turbo build, I would probably start with a billet crank to reduce potential flex. But since this crank is balanced to a high degree and because the rotating assembly is over 2 pounds lighter than stock, I am less concerned about flex especially since I probably won't be over 600whp.
Last edited by Erik@MIL.SPEC; Aug 23, 2015 at 11:06 AM.
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Ok, did my first "cost cutting" measure on this build. I am replacing a lot of the OEM parts with new since I had 175,000 miles on the original engine. I was looking at how much each pulley would cost if I used OEM, and it made me sad. So, here is a quick summary of the Gates replacement parts I used:
OEM-style accessory belt: Gates # 270 K060705 $23.79
Idler pulley: Gates # 270 36415 $22.79
Tensioner pulley: Gates # 270 38005 $13.75
Timing idler pulley: Gates # 270 T42017 $19.48
Balance shaft belt tensioner: Gates # 270 T41038 $18.58
Total from Rock Auto for all this including shipping? $105.05
For the timing belt, I'll be using the OEM Kevlar Belt for Evo 9's and for the balance shaft belt, I'll be using a belt from Cosworth.
So, hopefully that helps someone save a little money on their build. It might be the ONLY thing I've saved money on with this build lol.
OEM-style accessory belt: Gates # 270 K060705 $23.79
Idler pulley: Gates # 270 36415 $22.79
Tensioner pulley: Gates # 270 38005 $13.75
Timing idler pulley: Gates # 270 T42017 $19.48
Balance shaft belt tensioner: Gates # 270 T41038 $18.58
Total from Rock Auto for all this including shipping? $105.05
For the timing belt, I'll be using the OEM Kevlar Belt for Evo 9's and for the balance shaft belt, I'll be using a belt from Cosworth.
So, hopefully that helps someone save a little money on their build. It might be the ONLY thing I've saved money on with this build lol.
Love this thread man, keep posting!
I'm glad you posted about your cost savings on the timing belt parts. I have always been neurotic on my DSMs / evo's and only used OEM EVERYTHING for timing belt jobs. And on my evo 8, oem parts are over $500! Do you think there is any danger in using these aftermarket parts instead? I am in no way doubting your decision or trying to cause a problem. I'm just really curious. I could save myself a bunch of money next time!
I'm glad you posted about your cost savings on the timing belt parts. I have always been neurotic on my DSMs / evo's and only used OEM EVERYTHING for timing belt jobs. And on my evo 8, oem parts are over $500! Do you think there is any danger in using these aftermarket parts instead? I am in no way doubting your decision or trying to cause a problem. I'm just really curious. I could save myself a bunch of money next time!
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Love this thread man, keep posting!
I'm glad you posted about your cost savings on the timing belt parts. I have always been neurotic on my DSMs / evo's and only used OEM EVERYTHING for timing belt jobs. And on my evo 8, oem parts are over $500! Do you think there is any danger in using these aftermarket parts instead? I am in no way doubting your decision or trying to cause a problem. I'm just really curious. I could save myself a bunch of money next time!
I'm glad you posted about your cost savings on the timing belt parts. I have always been neurotic on my DSMs / evo's and only used OEM EVERYTHING for timing belt jobs. And on my evo 8, oem parts are over $500! Do you think there is any danger in using these aftermarket parts instead? I am in no way doubting your decision or trying to cause a problem. I'm just really curious. I could save myself a bunch of money next time!
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From what I understand, the OEM Mitsubishi parts are probably made by Gates. However, there were two things I did buy that were OEM...the Evo 9 kevlar-backed belt and the OEM timing belt tensioner. THe Gates tensioner is only $80, but I spent an extra $40 on OEM just in case 



