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Are you going to run an Aluminum under belly? or the OEM plastics? I'd be worried about dirt/dust getting up into the motor vents and overheating or damaging internals.
Yes, I purchased a slightly damaged carbing aluminum under-tray from a member. It is off in this pic because I'm going to drain the gearbox and T/C fluid soon.
Performed a power test over the weekend. Apparently my evo is only FWD. While on jack stands (all 4 wheels off the ground) there was a loud RPM dependent knocking noise coming from the T-case area when I applied a 12v power source to the motor. The drive-shaft was not spinning, however I was able to manually turn the driveshaft (with considerable effort) which turned the rear wheels. I spoke with Rocky at Shep Trans and decided to send my T-case off for a rebuild. I was too disheartened to take a video. Moral of the story: beware buying a used T-case from members on the forums!
this build deserves a sexier motor mount im thinking cnc aluminum.
I agree with you, but for now angle iron will suffice. When i move to install a second motor, the mounting position will change entirely. At that point the motor setup will be permanent and I will look into an aluminum mount.
Performed a power test over the weekend. Apparently my evo is only FWD. While on jack stands (all 4 wheels off the ground) there was a loud RPM dependent knocking noise coming from the T-case area when I applied a 12v power source to the motor. The drive-shaft was not spinning, however I was able to manually turn the driveshaft (with considerable effort) which turned the rear wheels. I spoke with Rocky at Shep Trans and decided to send my T-case off for a rebuild. I was too disheartened to take a video. Moral of the story: beware buying a used T-case from members on the forums!
Bad news. If you want a bad rear diff to go along with that i have one too.