finalizing frame

Evo is being sent to a local body shop so that my frame repair efforts can be checked by professionals. After mock installing the motor and tranny, I'm ready to fabricate one of the motor mounts. I want to be sure everything is square first. The body shop isn't giving me a timeline, so in the interim I will focus my efforts on other smaller sub-projects.

Things I hope to finish before the Evo is returned to me:

-Order clutch slave cylinder and braided line.
-Order front motor mount.
-Clean up drive-shaft.
-Order drive-shaft flange bolts.
-Clean up Transfer case.
-Order replacement bolts for transfer case.
-Receive correct transmission spacer from machinist.

Once these tasks are complete and the Evo is returned to me, I will mount the entire power-train and change all transmission fluids. At that point, the motor should turn the wheels if I apply a voltage from one of my Lithium packs.

 

Awesome!

Subscribed..

 

Will you dyno this ?

 

I will dyno the setup eventually.

I just discovered that the motor I purchased doesn't have the internal components that the seller said it had. I bought the motor used and took him at his word, unfortunately. Instead of being able to run 280V, this motor will only run about 160-180V safely. I'm not interested in pushing this motor at all. I will install it for now, but after the Evo is complete and a few test runs have been made, I will swap it out for the 280V motor (which should put down some nice numbers).

 

Miscellaneous items

This bracket will serve as a piece connecting the motor to the passenger side motor mount.




Started cleaning the transfer case, there are many layers of oxidation to clear away



Not completely finished, but it is getting better

 

This is amazing man. I am floored and in awe. Congratulations!


A few things I was thinking about as I read:

1) All those worried about the drivetrain grenading itself because of 400+ ft-lbs of torque don't quite understand what it is that is killer about torque numbers. Without going into too much detail, your fear is a result of a combustion engines measured max peak torque. If you accelerate too low in the rpm in a high gear, then you are actually generating far more torque than that dyno measured number, and that's what leads to problems. Where-as, in this scenario, the torque is the measured output from the motor at that rpm. The drivetrain should handle that without any issues.

2) Something I don't think anyone has thought of. But when he is done he will not need to use the clutch to start. The only purpose/function of the clutch will be to change gears (which he could do while stopped), but he can start without needing to slip the clutch. I'm not quite sure OP even thought of this as he mentioned being worried about the noise a twin disc carbon plate clutch makes. This is clutch chatter that only occurs when disengaged, and isn't a concern on an electric vehicle when the clutch will hardly ever be disengaged.

 

Thanks for the kind words.

I'm actually using a single disc clutch at the moment. The twin disc I spoke of earlier was in regards to a previous car I owned, which was a turbocharged ICE. You are correct: a zero rpm idle means I don't have to shift into neutral to remain stationary, which is why many EV converts just leave their transmission in 3rd or 4th gear (for comfort) and rarely shift. Coasting to a stop while in gear won't stall the electric motor like it would an ICE.

Consider a similar scenario for both a 4g63t powered Evo and a Warp 11 powered Evo (with out any slew effect).

Scenario 1: Spirited street driving a 4g63t powered Evo making 400ftlbs peak torque, 1st-2nd gear
You casually pull away from a stop. You slip the clutch at 800rpm and then go WOT. At 800rpm, the 4g63t is making less than 100ftlbs. Then, as you accelerate and the rpm increases, the motor gradually produces more and more torque until you hit your peak output at ~3500-4000rpm (depending on displacement, turbo, cams, fuel etc). If you have a nice tune, you can hold most of that torque until about 6000-7000rpm where you shift into 2nd and then slow down so you don't get a ticket.

Scenario 2: Spirited street driving a Warp 11 powered Evo making 400ftlbs peak torque, 1st-2nd gear
You casually pull away from a stop. You don't rev to 800rpm and you don't slip the clutch because your motor is electric and its 'idling' even though its not turning. You're already in gear while sitting at a stop. Your foot off the clutch pedal, no noise is coming from the engine bay and your tach reads 0 rpm. You depress the accelerator and immediately achieve peak torque output as you catapult forward. If you have a well cooled motor and controller, you can hold most of that torque until about 5000rpm where you shift into the next gear and blah blah blah.

Here is a dyno of a small electric motor. The torque curve is almost exactly backwards of what you'd expect from a turbocharged ICE.





The unique aspect of a Warp 11 motor is that: you can have all the instant power of a 2-step, high boost launch, but at zero rpm. All of this adrenaline comes with relatively little noise too, just some whooshing of your cooing fan.

 

Very nice work man!.... curious how are you controlling all of this? trq filter...etc

 

Here is the DC motor controller I intend to use, a Manzanita Zilla 1-K HV. It has a peak power output somewhere in the neighborhood of 300kW which is about 400hp. It is capable of delivering 1000A current to the motor at an efficiency rate of +98%

 

So can you adjust or tune the response and power delivery ?

 

Wow.
I just read the entire thread at work..This is quite the build!!
If I was anywhere near SC, I would have loved to come check this out, but I guess pictures and videos will have to suffice.
Good luck on the rest of the build electron, I am glad she is in great hands

 

That is what I was wondering as well, if he has full access to the sw.
That would be very cool if he is!.... at that point he can filter the trq however he wants and won't have a concern launching from 0 rpm.

 

The Zilla connects to my laptop and I will have full control over motor voltage and current. I can supply the motor with anywhere from 12-180Volts and 1-1000amps. Current determines motor torque output and Voltage determines motor rpm.
However, the idea is to make as much power as possible

 

Fiending for an update.. lol

 

update

Evo is still at the body shop, but I've been told it could be on the machine as early as last week. I met with the shop foreman to talk about my plans for the car and he was extremely insightful albeit very busy.

I have started load testing the LEAF modules to discern their exact capacity. So far things look great.