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RS master cylinder, proportioning valves, and lines
This kit will delete the ABS unit and free up some space against the firewall for my 12V battery. Upon inspecting the brake lines (which are OEM with 144k miles), I noticed a few wear spots. That will not do, so I got some SS braided lines as well. I also ordered some rebuilt calipers from detective coating in a similar silver/black color scheme. Given the history of this vehicle, I thought it best to not cut corners on the brake system.
A contrast of textures. Using only iron for the mount would have allowed for welds instead of hardware, but to keep it lightweight I used a combination of aluminum and iron.
Firewall looking bare with ABS deleted. RS master cylinder and lines installed. Couldn't find tq specs for proportioning valves
Looks awesome, I cant believe how bare the engine bay is.
One question. Are you not concerned with the motor shifting at all? I noticed the controller mount is rigidly fixed to the rad support.
Thanks for the kind words! Also, a great question for which I don't have a definitive answer
I've been contemplating the motor's potential to pitch in a maximum acceleration scenario. The moment of inertia of the rotor in this motor is much less than the rotating assembly in a 4G63, however there will be some movement under load. The amount is difficult to calculate. I suspect the torque solution mounts will mitigate that somewhat, but once street testing commences, I intend to measure the torque load at each bolt with plasti-guage. The passenger side motor mount will be replaced with a beefier unit, when my MIG welder arrives.
I'm also not entirely certain I will keep this controller. I haven't even load tested it yet and there is the possibility that I will go with a more powerful unit when I add a second motor. Switching controllers would require an entirely new mount and if I reach that point with this build, I'll consider a mount CNCd out of aluminum; one capable of being bolted to a single frame rail.
im loving this build, and i was gong to make the same comment as PAdutch. i think what he is telling you is that by having the tranny connected directly to your brand new radiator support. you will indeed end up with a damaged radiator support. there is no longer a rubber insulated connection between the chassis and the drivetraine. also the electric motor may not create much harmonics i guarantee you the evo tranny/tcase does.
Hmm, good point about the tranny. I just decided to scrap the OEM fuse box and my intended solution will require a modification to the controller mount. Perhaps I need to get back to the drawing board and design a new one from scratch.
My suggestion is to remove the mount from the transmission, and send it straight down to the engine mount. You could stay mounted to the rad support as long as you mount to the frame section by the forward engine mount. That would still allow you to have 3 mounting points for the controller while avoiding contact with the motor/tranny.
Extensive bracket arrangement including 4 mounting points and 2 retention bar anchor points.
Painted and installed. It supports 4 100Ah LiFePO4 cells secured by a non-conductive plastic retention bar. Barely visible underneath is an engine harness block off plate I fabricated on the firewall, also painted black.
I can't wait to see this thing cruising around Raleigh, because obviously we won't hear it, haha. So many people are going to lose their mind when you pop the hood...
My front sub frame has some damage and distortion. I'm not sure if it's from the collision or just the result of abuse and 144k rough miles. I've been on the lookout for a replacement and one just happened to pop up on ebay recently. I grabbed it.
Yanked the old unit out.
New one arrived, needs some cleaning.
After noticing some bent metal on the old subframe, I also purchased a new rear tranny mount base, peace of mind really.
I thought it's time to address all the bushings in the subframe. Steering rack, sway bar, control arm, ball joints and tie rod ends are all being replaced with whiteline or energy suspension offerings.
Last edited by electron bom; Jun 14, 2016 at 05:49 AM.
I'm surprised that you didn't go with the Whiteline KCA400M bushing for the rear pivot of the front control arm. They are a much better choice. I believe that the urethane pivots like what you have get destroyed pretty quickly.
