Simple, '06 Evo MR build
#46
haven't been a problem ,so I won't be swapping them out. I've tried a SU COP before and I didn't notice any improvement at my power level. That is a relief because they also won't pass smog
#48
I buy a lot of paint, rust protection, prep stuff, and tools from Eastwood. This is something I bought to use on inside of the exh mani. I decided against it, since I didn't know, yet, if it would flake off and go through the turbo. I ended up testing it on the outside of the exh mani first. It comes with a hose and nozzle to reach into runners. It says good to 1800*. I've only done one autox event on it. It's been on the car for some daily driving for a few months now. So far, it looks exactly like it did when I put it on. Not even so much as discoloration or fading, though I'm sure it will sooner or later.
Since it's "reflective", I'll probably hit the side of the oil pan, next to the down pipe. I'll also try to do as much as the inside of the DP as I can.
Since it's "reflective", I'll probably hit the side of the oil pan, next to the down pipe. I'll also try to do as much as the inside of the DP as I can.
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Tommyfacekicker (Jun 24, 2019)
#50
I plan to paint the inside of the O2 housing, that way nothing will be damaged *if* it flakes. I figure if it can handle heat there, the exhaust mani should be okay. I'll report back as soon as I stop being too lazy to pull it off
For the hell of it, I'm also gonna try it on my brake calipers. The are pretty much black now.. so it can't look any worse.
For the hell of it, I'm also gonna try it on my brake calipers. The are pretty much black now.. so it can't look any worse.
#51
May 9, 2019 update:
So, the paint on the exh mani is holding up well. I still haven't tried a track day, which will be the true test... but autoX isn't even making it sweat. I think I found a winner and will be doing the inside of my downpipe and O2 housing, next time they are off. I will also do the turbine housing exterior... not quite sold on doing the inside of the exhaust mani, though that's exactly what it's made for. Stay tuned.
I sold off the 17x9.5 +38 RPFs with 255 NT01s and picked up 18x10.5 +38 PF01s with 275 NT01s. The wheels originally came with 315 NT01s, which I did a test fit for the hell of it. Bad idea. While trying to drive the car to the tire shop, I started burning the paint on the rear quarter panel, where it was resting on the tire (I hadn't finished rolling/pulling the quarter panels).
So, I had to roll the rears completely flat, then keep bring out the roller until the quarter panels "popped" and came out. The paint was thrashed, since I didn't care enough to use a heat gun. so, I touched up the paint with with primer/paint. That made it really easy to tell if anything was still rubbing. All clear.
I did take a heat gun to the rear fender liners and had to trim the bumper a bit. My friend cried because I cut up a JDM bumper. Oh noes! LOL.
This did require @Dallas J SSB rear trailing arms (see pics) and a 20mm spacer up front. I didn't need the full 20mm to clear the brakes, but I think I needed it to clear everything from lock to lock. I plan to experiment, though, since I'm still rubbing plastic somewhere; I think it's the inside fender line, next to the frame. One pic shows clearance with the 315 tire, so you can imagine how much there is with a 275.
SSB vs Stock. Worthwhile investment.
Clearance with a 315 tire. Plenty o' room.
275s before I finished rolling/pulling the rears.
Testing lock-to-lock clearance. All good.
I had to heat up the liner under the bumper bolt. It was a convex area that rubbed, and it now concave. I also had to trim the bumper cover to avoid self-clearancing LOL
Almost stock, without the numbers
The Car did awesome. Too bad the TOB popped out after about five laps, so I had to settle for second place by 0.04 seconds! Next time.
So, the paint on the exh mani is holding up well. I still haven't tried a track day, which will be the true test... but autoX isn't even making it sweat. I think I found a winner and will be doing the inside of my downpipe and O2 housing, next time they are off. I will also do the turbine housing exterior... not quite sold on doing the inside of the exhaust mani, though that's exactly what it's made for. Stay tuned.
I sold off the 17x9.5 +38 RPFs with 255 NT01s and picked up 18x10.5 +38 PF01s with 275 NT01s. The wheels originally came with 315 NT01s, which I did a test fit for the hell of it. Bad idea. While trying to drive the car to the tire shop, I started burning the paint on the rear quarter panel, where it was resting on the tire (I hadn't finished rolling/pulling the quarter panels).
So, I had to roll the rears completely flat, then keep bring out the roller until the quarter panels "popped" and came out. The paint was thrashed, since I didn't care enough to use a heat gun. so, I touched up the paint with with primer/paint. That made it really easy to tell if anything was still rubbing. All clear.
I did take a heat gun to the rear fender liners and had to trim the bumper a bit. My friend cried because I cut up a JDM bumper. Oh noes! LOL.
This did require @Dallas J SSB rear trailing arms (see pics) and a 20mm spacer up front. I didn't need the full 20mm to clear the brakes, but I think I needed it to clear everything from lock to lock. I plan to experiment, though, since I'm still rubbing plastic somewhere; I think it's the inside fender line, next to the frame. One pic shows clearance with the 315 tire, so you can imagine how much there is with a 275.
SSB vs Stock. Worthwhile investment.
Clearance with a 315 tire. Plenty o' room.
275s before I finished rolling/pulling the rears.
Testing lock-to-lock clearance. All good.
I had to heat up the liner under the bumper bolt. It was a convex area that rubbed, and it now concave. I also had to trim the bumper cover to avoid self-clearancing LOL
Almost stock, without the numbers
The Car did awesome. Too bad the TOB popped out after about five laps, so I had to settle for second place by 0.04 seconds! Next time.
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SoSoEVO (May 10, 2019)
#52
Almost forgot! Since the IX calipers are coming off soon, I decided to paint my Brownbos with the same paint as the exhaust mani. I just did the top/outside for looks and testing purposes. Yeah.. the back side is still brown LOL
It's a flat/rough finish... so cleaning them is a bit of a hassle, but the paint has held up to a mountain drive that cooked a set of OEM pads and an AutoX event (only reached the top of 3rd gear). So far, so good. I plan to test it on the X calipers at the track. If it continues to hold, I'll paint them properly. I'll have to stick them in the oven after painting (requires 200*f to cure) then finish the rebuild. Ghetto mods FTW.
It's a flat/rough finish... so cleaning them is a bit of a hassle, but the paint has held up to a mountain drive that cooked a set of OEM pads and an AutoX event (only reached the top of 3rd gear). So far, so good. I plan to test it on the X calipers at the track. If it continues to hold, I'll paint them properly. I'll have to stick them in the oven after painting (requires 200*f to cure) then finish the rebuild. Ghetto mods FTW.
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Tommyfacekicker (Jun 24, 2019)
#53
Evolved Member
iTrader: (23)
Nice these trailing arms are giving a great amount of clearance. I am surprised that you can run these wide tires and only need to trim the JDM rear bumper that small amount.
People have been cutting away more metal and plastic out to relocate the rear bumper mounting point to fit wheels that are less wide.
People have been cutting away more metal and plastic out to relocate the rear bumper mounting point to fit wheels that are less wide.
#54
Nice these trailing arms are giving a great amount of clearance. I am surprised that you can run these wide tires and only need to trim the JDM rear bumper that small amount.
People have been cutting away more metal and plastic out to relocate the rear bumper mounting point to fit wheels that are less wide.
People have been cutting away more metal and plastic out to relocate the rear bumper mounting point to fit wheels that are less wide.
And yeah: those trailing arms are awesome. My only other option would have been to go with a +15 wheel and some time of flare/Foltex rear.
Last edited by kaj; Aug 15, 2019 at 08:41 AM.
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kaj (May 10, 2019)
#57
Evolving Member
do you ever bring your car out to any events in town? you are very knowledgeable. its a very clean car.
#58
I pretty much only take it to FCG get togethers. I also do Cars N Coffee and other organized events, but I always park it off in parking lots, never in the "show" section. There's nothing "car show" about mine, it's not much to look at When people come up to look at my car, I can almost hear them thinking, ".......oh".
None of the work I've put into the car can really be seen by popping the hood, so meh. It sure is fun to drive, though!
#59
Update:
I was having trouble, for some reason, getting rear toe set to zero. I bought a set of ebay toe arms which turned out to not fit (the spherical end was too wide and didn't fit the subframe). When I went back to the work bench, I noticed the toe arm has an offset bushing and mine was set all the way in, keeping me from bringing the toe in as much as I needed. I flipped it around and BAM. Perfect toe. I'm still running 3* front camber and 2* rear. I'm still waiting on a pyrometer so I can be scientific about my camber settings instead of just running what everyone else runs.
The paint on the brakes is still holding up. No discoloration or bubbling/raising/peeling. I ordered another can to do the X calipers. They will be going on as soon as I find some 18" wheels to daily.
I'm still tired of the the lifter tick.
The car still doesn't like starting when warm. It also doesn't like when I'm on/off the gas for three point turns (wants to die) but eh well, on both of these. The car runs great while giving it gas
Awaiting a splitter from @ayoustin and then hopefully, by the end of the year, front and rear uprights (and possibly brake rotor hats???) from SSB https://www.ssb-designs.com/ @Dallas J
After that, I plan to probably swap out my ASTs for Ohlins then start saving for the one, last, big purchase: https://www.xshiftgearboxes.com/race...-7-9-x-6-speed
I was having trouble, for some reason, getting rear toe set to zero. I bought a set of ebay toe arms which turned out to not fit (the spherical end was too wide and didn't fit the subframe). When I went back to the work bench, I noticed the toe arm has an offset bushing and mine was set all the way in, keeping me from bringing the toe in as much as I needed. I flipped it around and BAM. Perfect toe. I'm still running 3* front camber and 2* rear. I'm still waiting on a pyrometer so I can be scientific about my camber settings instead of just running what everyone else runs.
The paint on the brakes is still holding up. No discoloration or bubbling/raising/peeling. I ordered another can to do the X calipers. They will be going on as soon as I find some 18" wheels to daily.
I'm still tired of the the lifter tick.
The car still doesn't like starting when warm. It also doesn't like when I'm on/off the gas for three point turns (wants to die) but eh well, on both of these. The car runs great while giving it gas
Awaiting a splitter from @ayoustin and then hopefully, by the end of the year, front and rear uprights (and possibly brake rotor hats???) from SSB https://www.ssb-designs.com/ @Dallas J
After that, I plan to probably swap out my ASTs for Ohlins then start saving for the one, last, big purchase: https://www.xshiftgearboxes.com/race...-7-9-x-6-speed
The following 2 users liked this post by kaj:
SoSoEVO (Aug 15, 2019),
Tommyfacekicker (Aug 15, 2019)