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The paint I used on the calipers and exhaust manifold have held up to numerous autox days and an HDPE at Sonoma and look just as good as the day I painted them. I'm ordering extra cans right now
The paint I used on the calipers and exhaust manifold have held up to numerous autox days and an HDPE at Sonoma and look just as good as the day I painted them. I'm ordering extra cans right now
What paint did you end up using? I'm thinking I want to go this route rather than do a full caliper rebuild and powder coating.
What paint did you end up using? I'm thinking I want to go this route rather than do a full caliper rebuild and powder coating.
This stuff:
Originally Posted by kaj
Almost forgot! Since the IX calipers are coming off soon, I decided to paint my Brownbos with the same paint as the exhaust mani. I just did the top/outside for looks and testing purposes. Yeah.. the back side is still brown LOL
It's a flat/rough finish... so cleaning them is a bit of a hassle, but the paint has held up to a mountain drive that cooked a set of OEM pads and an AutoX event (only reached the top of 3rd gear). So far, so good. I plan to test it on the X calipers at the track. If it continues to hold, I'll paint them properly. I'll have to stick them in the oven after painting (requires 200*f to cure) then finish the rebuild. Ghetto mods FTW.
Originally Posted by kaj
I buy a lot of paint, rust protection, prep stuff, and tools from Eastwood. This is something I bought to use on inside of the exh mani. I decided against it, since I didn't know, yet, if it would flake off and go through the turbo. I ended up testing it on the outside of the exh mani first. It comes with a hose and nozzle to reach into runners. It says good to 1800*. I've only done one autox event on it. It's been on the car for some daily driving for a few months now. So far, it looks exactly like it did when I put it on. Not even so much as discoloration or fading, though I'm sure it will sooner or later.
Since it's "reflective", I'll probably hit the side of the oil pan, next to the down pipe. I'll also try to do as much as the inside of the DP as I can.
Yesterday, I finally installed the Evo X brakes I've had laying around, forever. I thought it would be a LOT harder, particularly reaming out the uprights for the larger bolts. It would seem that going from 12mm to 14mm really isn't that bad, as it took about eight seconds Buying a quality reamer was well worth it. That sucker cut though the uprights like butter. I feel ducting my old brakes would have been the "better" option. I'd be running lighter brakes and smaller wheels and tires... but I couldn't find a way to duct around my ACD pump. So.. X brakes it is.
New rings are being ordered from Coleman, hardware from RB.
Separate update: I ditched the 3" harness in favor of 2". The 3" would bind up in my lap and affect my moving around the pedals. Short people problems The smaller harness fits me much better and works with my HANS. The car is a lot more comfortable to drive, now.
Next project. Gonna get back to it tomorrow. Almost done cutting, then will figure or mounting solutions. Kinda getting excited, though it means I will have to rebalance aero with the rear wing.
also hoping I can make it work with the OEM lip still on the bumper.
PA offered to make me a birch splitter for a fair price, but I'm kinda having fun shaping this one. I do plan to use their support rods, but right now I'm working on the mounts to the chassis. Lots of good ideas on this forum, I just forgot to save all the threads to my favorites
Quite. A 400whp evo should be able to do 145-150 on the main straight and 130-135 on other straights.
Originally Posted by kaj
I'd probably be upgrading pads at that point.
BWRP's straights are much shorter, so 43s work great.
yea i found that out the hard way. pretty much exactly what i was doing on the main straights at RA. it's also my first time on a track with E85, first time going over even 120 on a track. 120 and under, I think the ST43s are perfect. If I go back to RA, I think I will need 47s