where do you get your car alignment done at? what is the symptoms of the car not liking to start when its warm? I ended up running a switch directly to my starter bec my starter wasn't getting a solid 12v when it gets hot.

 

According to Jon @ TRE, it's $12k for EVERYTHING. As opposed to $15k for most others plus the shifter... plus the display... plus... I still need to confirm I understood his "everything" correctly.. but without cash in hand, I'm not getting much response.

I do my own alignments. I took the car to a shop yesterday and they confirmed I was just "really close". They measure to 0.000, so I'd say my method is good enough. I only need to find a way to do my camber. I have a gauge, but no way, yet, to be sure I'm flat on the wheel. Every way I've tried has given me inconsistent results.
Not starting when it's warm: I have to turn the key then open the TB a bit while it's cranking. Kinda like old carb'd cars It then sputters and slowly building RPM. It's a bit embarrassing when I do it in front of people, but oh well.

 

On my Bug, I pop the wheels off, put jack stands under the arms to simulate ride height, and use the camber gauge on the rotor. I actually do my whole alignment with no wheels on. Just have to make sure the car is sitting flat side to side and all should be good.

 

Your warm starts and drivability concerns are all tune issue that your tuner should be able to iron out...

 

I have a set of hub stands I can borrow, but they are across town. It takes longer to pick up/return than use, so I've just been lazy about it LOL. They work really well, especially for camber. I may be able to use jack stands.... I never really looked to see if there was a spot to use. If it's safe, I wouldn't mind.

I've mentioned it a couple times and but never really got an answer. To be honest, I just got tired of bringing it up. I've seen others with the exact same problem, but no solutions posted. I'd like it fixed, but not worth the trouble it's been, so far. Also, I think the "three point turn" thing is new. I don't remember it doing that before. I'm chalking it up to the same tank of e-85 sitting in the fuel system for quite a while with very little driving (since nothing else has changed). I wanna run a tank of pump gas through it, then see how she does.

 

I'm doing them in batches of 3, currently at 2 orders and potentially got a 3rd this morning if the guy emails me. Once I get his order I'll be contacting for deposits and get the ball rolling on them.

 

Yessshhhhhhhhh! Is there any videos out of it in action going through the gears?

 

Possibly.


Additional update: I've loving the transmission. It took forever to get mileage on the car for break in. Once it was broken in, I swapped fluids and now it feels golden. I'm using a euro/JDM/somethingotherthanUS transmission shifter assemblier thingy since mine got damaged. It required modification of one of the shifter bushings because the post it mounts to is shorter than on the US part.




The mechanism that goes into the trans is a bit different, for some reason, but still works. It also has a much smaller weight on the lever arm. Because of that, I *assume*, the trans has a much different feel than I'm used to. I can feel a "click" as I go into each gear, like I'm doing all the work. It's hard to explain. It's sort of like going from a heavily-weighted shift knob to delrin...? Anyway, I can feel and actually hear a "click" from the shift lever as I go into gear, as opposed to just moving the lever and having it "fall" into gear. It's very definitive and satisfying. I bought an extra shift mechanism, just in case it's the reason for the difference and (god forbid) I bend another.

The rear diff should be broken in by now and fluid is changed. It's still noisy as hell, but I don't care because race car. I love all the mechanical noises. It still chatters like crazy while making slow, tight turns, whines, and I love every bit of it. The sight glass that was accidentally installed is pretty cool, but not necessary - if anyone is every curious. The thing locks like a *****, though. I love it. Oversteer is just a tap of the gas pedal away. This diff and my small turbo = instant sideways action, any time I want, at any speed.

The paint on the brake calipers and exhaust mani is still holding. I think I found a winner. I will confirm after my HPDE @ WSIR on the Aug/Sept 31/1.

 

Be careful with your sequential/dog box aspriations. They are racecar parts, and they wear like racecar parts. When driven hard parts typically need replaced at a shorter interval than a synchro box. The dog engagement teeth tend to wear "surprisingly" fast compared to how a properly shifted and maintained synchro box wears out the synchros.

 

Good point! I haven't looked into seeing what the long-term effects will be, yet. I'm still $12k away from my goal The car doesn't get driven much, but it does get driven hard. From what I've seen (also haven't dug too deep), rebuilds on a sequential look easier than a standard trans, though I'm sure the cost is a lot more. I know a sequential will be a huge investment of money, time, and effort, so I'll have to be 110% serious that I want to deal with all that. If it's going to be done on a regular basis, I need to see if it's something I can learn to do on my own. That would be kinda fun.

 

Rebuilding a a dog box/sequential is no easier or harder than a synchro box.

 

Service intervals for the Shift sequential. And it does NOT come with a lever.

 

932 mile refreshes. See what I was saying. You spend $15k on the box. And then every 1000 miles spend another $2k on refreshing it. That service interval is likely on the extreme side to ensure absolute reliability in a racecar, and you could likely push it to 4-5x that interval, but a synchro box that is treated well lasts wayyyy longer.

 

Those are track miles, so rebuild results may vary. They told me those miles only count at full load. 1,000 miles would be 454 laps at my local track. That's 56 sessions, or about 14ish track days. I'd be looking at a rebuild every two years. Worth it? I dunno.... it would have to be a LOT of fun to justify the cost. Especially considering I'll probably never have to have my 5spd opened up again.
Also, I hope to do more than 6 events per year... so that would reduce time between rebuilds

 

Why do you even want a sequential? They're cool but the reality of it is they're one of the worst cost/performance mods you can do.