Decided to remove, clean, paint some brackets which were covered in salt and rusting. I couldn't stand the crust and want to preserve these parts best I can. Bolts still look ugly but I'm not replacing all of these suckers. But I did replace the one in the 1st image that was rusted to **** on the main wiring bulk head.

fuel line brackets, ABS module bracket, relay panel bracket, misc wiring bracket.

Completely a time suck but I had fun. Also cleaned the bay a little

Before:








After:

 

Cleaned up what was left of the deadening. Took far longer than the dry ice step. Used Goofoff. Next gotta remove shifter and cables to put in 5spd parts.

 

Looking super great

 

Thank you!

More boring updates. Disassembled 5spd shifter, cleaned it, re-greased etc. Installed it along with the new OEM 5spd cables. Using an AMS shift knob for now.

Also picked up RS rear window regulators, on the hunt for the front set next.

 

Are the RS regulators lighter? I didn't notice much difference.

 

Prob not themselves, but the motors, wiring, window buttons etc should shave a few.

 

Only about 1lb per side in the rear lost. Plus the wiring, clips etc. Ill take it. Still looking for fronts. I admit I also justt think its cool haha

 

Did EGR delete, still need to tap the head and install plug. Also remove charcoal canister.

 

Was able to get the LSD, BR billet side mounts, and BR mustache bar installed.

Took me 2 weeks because my first attempt last week yeilded my first real casualty so far on this build. The alum diff mount that bolts up to the unibody got effed. I managed to damage the threads where the lsd side mounts bolt up. So i bought 1 used, it arrived monday.

Completely removed rear subframe and install was far easier than my first attempt. This was still a pretty difficult task though, made worse by my initial failure. Feel much better now to see it all buttoned up and torqued to spec.

Only foot note is I had to notch the mustache bar beacuse the TRE fill plug/sight glass relocation interfered. Would not have been able to remove the fill plug without it. Bench grinder, dremel did the job. Then a few shots of gloss black engine paint on the now exposed metal.

 

Also picked up a really clean ACD pump from a guy in UT. Only paid 200bucks for it. No corrosion and has about 50k on it. Either as a spare, or relocate this one. Not sure yet.

 

It's a shame all those parts will have to get dirty, one day.

 

I like the engine bay brackets redone in black. It's a small change that really makes everything cleaner.

You could also have the bolts vibration polished to remove any surface rust.

I want to anodize the brake lines black but I am not sure if that's possible. The last ditch effort will be to spray paint them black. That would take ages.

 

Do you have any shots of your rear fenders (up close)? How much negative camber out back will you be running?

I'm in the process of pulling my fenders now. I actually bought adjustable lower LCA's to run a bit more camber than probably necessary at -3.0 (mainly for autox). I feel like I still have a long ways to go for pulling...

 

Its not so much for looks as removing salt and corrosion. But it does look pretty until it gets dirty again.

I also finally got a bench grinder with a wire wheel in the garage. So i just clean up bolts with that now.

This isnt a street car anymore, so it should stay relatively clean. And after seeing what 1/2 a winter has done, bet ur *** this car will never see snowy roads again.

 

Ill try and get some today. But the wheels are off the car and my alignment is all messed up. Im hoping i can get away with only -1.5 in the rear without rub under track load. But im a long ways out.