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I made a bracket that bolted to the bottom and to the chassis to stabilize it. Definitely wouldnt rely on just those two top bolts to support that dynamic load.
I made a bracket that bolted to the bottom and to the chassis to stabilize it. Definitely wouldnt rely on just those two top bolts to support that dynamic load.
Did you mount in the same rough location? Would you share an pictures?
Mine is on driver side because I didn't want the heat of the muffler to mess with it, there's a ton more space, and the evap line is the same size as the ACD factory line. I just used that line to run the fluid forward instead of running a new line. Much cleaner
Yeah I'm concerned about heat too. You may have convinced me. Frankly I only wanted to put it on passenger side because it seemed logical that it was the lighter side. But frankly I dont know for sure.
Looking good! If youre not concerned about corosion then that is absolutely a good stealth spot and nice to keep the weight out back and down low. But for me getting it off the front was part of why I wanted mine relocated but the other motivator was keeping it protected from the elements.
As far as flaring the lines, Im not sure the HF kit will be up to the task of producing a good flare for that size line. Not bashing HF but from my experience with the bare bones tubing flare kits, I tired using one I rented from AZ just bc it was zero risk and the flare no matter how many times I tried it, it never came out satisfactory.
The process is simple but it never worked for me. Id imagine the HF quality is right on par with the kit at AZ. Luckily one of my buddies had a similar kit in terns of style that he picked up off a tool truck years ago and wow what a difference. The first flare I did with it came out perfect.
There are some really nice kits out there but it was hard for me to justify the price for a couple silly flares. But you gotta do what you gotta do to get the job done. If you're willing to spend the money the Eastwood kit is supposedly really nice. The best one is by far the Mastercool hydraulic kind but its something like $400.
If I owned one I'd ship it out to you to borrow but unfortunately I do not so sorry!
Boy were u right... Been practicing on the OE ACD line without a vice, since ive got to do the evap line while its on the car. With the Harbor Freight kit, I have had 0 successful flares and even broke a wing nut on it...
Went out and bought a Ridgid model 345. First attempt I got what appears to be a perfect flare. So almost ready to finish relocation.
My TRE transfercase arrived. Looks like a piece of art like all Jons other work!
AND today I found a DC sport Ti front strut bar, finally. Cant wait to get it.
Been super busy at work. Drove down to Missouri for a night for work. 625 miles of driving in 24hrs And have 13hr shifts the next couple days. Good news is itll pay for the tcase and parts Ive ordered.
Thank you! Everytime I get something done, I find something new to do. Still have so much work ahead of me. Haven't even started on the motor yet but am gathering parts.
Cant wait to receive this bar. I get that its just a strut bar, and the stock one works just fine. But I love titanium, and its so light. Will weight the stock bar, vs both front and back DC ones once I get it.
Yeah I'm concerned about heat too. You may have convinced me. Frankly I only wanted to put it on passenger side because it seemed logical that it was the lighter side. But frankly I dont know for sure.
Cross weighting our cars show the driver's side is actually lighter. With or without driver, I don't remember.
I really wish I had scales to figure this out as I go. The driver side(with driver in the car), plus seat, column, logically to me is heavier...
I'm told it's because the engine is far to the passenger side. I suppose the exhaust kinda is and a few other parts.
Someone posted pics from their scales, but I don't know which thread it was.
Dont mistake corner load with corner weight (mass). One is a function of how hard and unbalanced the springs are pushing and the other is based off actual CG placement. You cant get real corner weight without a dynamic test.
Physics of this is lost on most. Think about it this way, you can make any corner look way over loaded by just extending it. Setting anything specifically even doesn't fix this either because no combination of cross or side weight is actually even in mass.
Really, the best you can do is left vs right and front vs rear without finding car center of mass. Thats just not a realistic thing to look for so you have to make assumptions. We obviously know driver is a huge offset and engine is another.
Got the front strut bar. Amazingly light and solid built. The rear one is actually heavier. But front + rear is still 3lbs lighter than JUST the OE front steel bar.
Also got my Evospec (EvoDan) light weight idler pulley. Comes with titanium hardware and a ceramic bearing.
