My Evo 8 Experience
#16
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
#17
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
So this may sound like a NooB question, but i need answers. Im not talking about Anti-Lag but Every Evo in my area makes those nasty Pops n Bangs in between shifts as well as coming down from a high RPM. My car doesnt do that at all.... WTF am i missing? Does it have anything to do with the Wastegate & Dump?
My STi was loud AF & backfired hella loud, but the Evo doesnt & honestly i miss it haha
My STi was loud AF & backfired hella loud, but the Evo doesnt & honestly i miss it haha
#18
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (12)
So this may sound like a NooB question, but i need answers. Im not talking about Anti-Lag but Every Evo in my area makes those nasty Pops n Bangs in between shifts as well as coming down from a high RPM. My car doesnt do that at all.... WTF am i missing? Does it have anything to do with the Wastegate & Dump?
My STi was loud AF & backfired hella loud, but the Evo doesnt & honestly i miss it haha
My STi was loud AF & backfired hella loud, but the Evo doesnt & honestly i miss it haha
A lot of that has to do with the fuel map in the tune. Some people ask their tuners to add features like pops, bangs, and fireballs in between shifts just for show. Some believe it's rice, others think it's cool. My opinion on the matter is that it's unnecessary and can't prolong the life of anything. Some exotics do it from factory though!
#19
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The ignition fuse is the top, left 10a in this picture.
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WelDun1 (Oct 11, 2020)
#20
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
You're going to want to replace your stock 10a ignition fuse with a 15a or you'll eventually go to start the car and nothing will happen. It happened to me when I first installed my cop and it freaked me out. The stock coils don't draw as much power as the individual Denso coils, so it'll eventually blow if it's not upgraded. All of my cop kits and systems come with a replacement 15a fuse because of that reason. Just a heads up. Good job with your cop build. That's the cheapest way I've ever seen it done
The ignition fuse is the top, left 10a in this picture.
The ignition fuse is the top, left 10a in this picture.
I guess I was happy with the results for being my first attempt, but I will definitely be making another harness and another plate.
About the fuse, thank you for sharing that info. I'm going out to replace the fuse in a minute.
#21
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
A lot of that has to do with the fuel map in the tune. Some people ask their tuners to add features like pops, bangs, and fireballs in between shifts just for show. Some believe it's rice, others think it's cool. My opinion on the matter is that it's unnecessary and can't prolong the life of anything. Some exotics do it from factory though!
But Yeah I kinda figured that much. My AFR is on point whether @idle, cruising or WOT. So it's definitely not getting extra fuel. My STi ran pretty rich. English has my Evo dialed in except the tune is pretty damn aggressive. I'm always mixing in a few gallons of Sunoco 110 to stop all pings n Knock. On avg I run 96oct.
I'm hoping it'll sound a little better when I put my 02 Dump on & maybe even a straight pipe axleback.
#22
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Hey thanx for all the info! I've watched all ur videos and actually watched ur "How To" when making my harness. I had a helluva time getting the 2 wires to fit in 1 pin. They wouldn't click in cuz I think I used 1 size too big of wire, so I ended up just hard wiring the leads from the denso plugs to the engine harness. Another mistake I made was with the mounting holes. I didn't clock the coils enough so the connectors wouldn't plug in bcuz they hit the valve cover... so I had to redrill new holes.
I guess I was happy with the results for being my first attempt, but I will definitely be making another harness and another plate.
About the fuse, thank you for sharing that info. I'm going out to replace the fuse in a minute.
I guess I was happy with the results for being my first attempt, but I will definitely be making another harness and another plate.
About the fuse, thank you for sharing that info. I'm going out to replace the fuse in a minute.
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WelDun1 (Oct 11, 2020)
#23
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
Ignition fuse
So after talking to JD Customs about swapping out the 10a ign fuse to a 15a, I went to swap it out and it had already been swapped. So I'm wondering if the person who owned the car before the person who I bought it from had a COP kit installed and took it off when he sold it. I know the guy who sold it to me didn't do it bcuz he was uhh how can I say this nicely...car challenged! So yeah... I didn't have to swap it.
#24
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
Its definitely been a long time since i have posted on this forum. Mainly in part bc i've been so busy, but i have also been getting help from a few locals.
So... where to start!?! First of all, the kid that i bought it from lied about everything he said that was done to the car.
The main Parts that It was s'pose to have and didn't was:1000cc, Walbro 255, 264 Cams.
Since i didnt know how to identify Stock injectors i didnt know what to look for, but I had to take his word on the pump & cams, and since he just had it tuned at English i just believed him.
But besides all of that, My Evo has given me nothing but problems.
I have dubbed the car "Worse Case Scenario" and you'll understand why by the end of this post.
I have had to fix every common issue that Evo 8/9s have. Everything From :
>Sunroof motor bolts coming loose
>Sunroof re-initiation
>Water came in through wire harness on driver side kick panel and shorted out the entire car.
I had to cut the wires at the connectors and then hardwire them together. The only fixis to use silicone to seal the grommet better
Then theres the clutch issue. I had a Exedy Twin HD which is a great clutch for a 4-500whp Evo. And mine only makes 400whp So the very 1st time i decide to launch the car it was awesome. 2hrs later tho, the clutch pedal went to the floor and i thought the clip popped off, but when i took it to English they told me that the clutch needed to be rebuilt. It only had 12k on it I ended up buying an ACT single until i could rebuild it myself, so they boxed it up and it wasn't until the next summer when i took it out of the box and to my surprise the clutch was perfectly fine. The TOB broke which is what the problem was and besides that the disks needed to be replaced. So i guess that's what they call "needing a rebuild" these days?!
FFWD a year, i start to hear a "tick tick tick" noise in 1st gear. soon after I get rear-ended(a completely different story all together) and the noise immediately gets worse. I take it into English and they say "Well,we have bad news. 1st gear broke a tooth & the tranny isnt rebuildable" ... Wtf u mean cant be rebuilt? they said that its possible that the broken tooth went through the rest of the gears and could've cracked them. This is a freshly rebuilt tranny with 22k miles that i bought from them, Because when i bought my car it didn't have a tranny. English wouldn't take any responsibility bc the tranny didnt come outta my car when they rebuilt it and they sold it to me as a "Good Used" tranny. So instead of just replacing 1st gear, i had to find a new tranny. WORSE CASE SCENARIO.
My recent adventure happened a few weeks ago. I was driving home from Taco Bell at 1am and 1 mile from my house the motor cuts off but i have electric power, all lights still on etc... i try popping the clutch and nothing happens. so i had to get towed home. I ran diagnostics and it was the crankshaft position sensor which explains the symptoms. I ordered the sensor and sent it to English for them to do it bc they were already doing my clutch..Again! i told them what happened and they said its possible that it jumped time and bent a valve but agreed it was more than likely the sensor if what i told them is what happened,
I get a call back 2hrs later and they say "I have bad news"...Again. The balance shaft belt broke, the crankshaft plate bent, and they wouldn't know if it jumped tim eor bent valves until they can get the valve cover off. 2 weeks go by and i finally call them back and Miles was quick to say those all too familiar words again... Bad News! It was The Worse Case Scenario.
Soooo Thats where im at right now with everything. Something that has me scratching my head though, Miles quoted me $3500 for the head rebuild and thats w/o Springs/Retainers.
What i dont understand is that on their site it says that their street build is $1800.
English Racing - Mitsubishi Evolution 8/9 - STREET - Cylinder Head
Includes:
So where is the other $1700 coming from? removal & installation? That just doesnt sound right. I have about $5k to throw at this problem. So i have to make it work. I need to get my clutch done as well which is $170, plus they charge $750 just for labor...smh and then i need a Timing kit which is about $450 w/ pump
PARTS LABOR
$1700- Head ???
$170- clutch $750
$450- timing ???
$2320 + $
So... where to start!?! First of all, the kid that i bought it from lied about everything he said that was done to the car.
The main Parts that It was s'pose to have and didn't was:1000cc, Walbro 255, 264 Cams.
Since i didnt know how to identify Stock injectors i didnt know what to look for, but I had to take his word on the pump & cams, and since he just had it tuned at English i just believed him.
But besides all of that, My Evo has given me nothing but problems.
I have dubbed the car "Worse Case Scenario" and you'll understand why by the end of this post.
I have had to fix every common issue that Evo 8/9s have. Everything From :
>Sunroof motor bolts coming loose
>Sunroof re-initiation
>Water came in through wire harness on driver side kick panel and shorted out the entire car.
I had to cut the wires at the connectors and then hardwire them together. The only fixis to use silicone to seal the grommet better
Then theres the clutch issue. I had a Exedy Twin HD which is a great clutch for a 4-500whp Evo. And mine only makes 400whp So the very 1st time i decide to launch the car it was awesome. 2hrs later tho, the clutch pedal went to the floor and i thought the clip popped off, but when i took it to English they told me that the clutch needed to be rebuilt. It only had 12k on it I ended up buying an ACT single until i could rebuild it myself, so they boxed it up and it wasn't until the next summer when i took it out of the box and to my surprise the clutch was perfectly fine. The TOB broke which is what the problem was and besides that the disks needed to be replaced. So i guess that's what they call "needing a rebuild" these days?!
FFWD a year, i start to hear a "tick tick tick" noise in 1st gear. soon after I get rear-ended(a completely different story all together) and the noise immediately gets worse. I take it into English and they say "Well,we have bad news. 1st gear broke a tooth & the tranny isnt rebuildable" ... Wtf u mean cant be rebuilt? they said that its possible that the broken tooth went through the rest of the gears and could've cracked them. This is a freshly rebuilt tranny with 22k miles that i bought from them, Because when i bought my car it didn't have a tranny. English wouldn't take any responsibility bc the tranny didnt come outta my car when they rebuilt it and they sold it to me as a "Good Used" tranny. So instead of just replacing 1st gear, i had to find a new tranny. WORSE CASE SCENARIO.
My recent adventure happened a few weeks ago. I was driving home from Taco Bell at 1am and 1 mile from my house the motor cuts off but i have electric power, all lights still on etc... i try popping the clutch and nothing happens. so i had to get towed home. I ran diagnostics and it was the crankshaft position sensor which explains the symptoms. I ordered the sensor and sent it to English for them to do it bc they were already doing my clutch..Again! i told them what happened and they said its possible that it jumped time and bent a valve but agreed it was more than likely the sensor if what i told them is what happened,
I get a call back 2hrs later and they say "I have bad news"...Again. The balance shaft belt broke, the crankshaft plate bent, and they wouldn't know if it jumped tim eor bent valves until they can get the valve cover off. 2 weeks go by and i finally call them back and Miles was quick to say those all too familiar words again... Bad News! It was The Worse Case Scenario.
Soooo Thats where im at right now with everything. Something that has me scratching my head though, Miles quoted me $3500 for the head rebuild and thats w/o Springs/Retainers.
What i dont understand is that on their site it says that their street build is $1800.
English Racing - Mitsubishi Evolution 8/9 - STREET - Cylinder Head
Includes:
- GSC STD Intake Valves
- GSC STD Exhaust Valves - Super Alloy
- GSC Valve Stem Seals
- Machine Work
- Head Assembly with above parts
So where is the other $1700 coming from? removal & installation? That just doesnt sound right. I have about $5k to throw at this problem. So i have to make it work. I need to get my clutch done as well which is $170, plus they charge $750 just for labor...smh and then i need a Timing kit which is about $450 w/ pump
PARTS LABOR
$1700- Head ???
$170- clutch $750
$450- timing ???
$2320 + $
#25
EvoM Community Team Leader
I would just ask them for a breakdown of their estimate. They might have some cushion built in, better to estimate high and come in low than the opposite. You start getting into old cars and there are potentially a lot of misc. things you want/need to do while your in there. Old coolant hoses need replacing, cracked failed 0-rings (see boost leaks) etc. Then there are all the gaskets you need to replace. Timing cover gasket set ~$75, head gasket ~$85, Exhaust Manifold Gasket ~$30, Intake manifold gasket ~$16, thermostat housing gasket ~$7, camshafts seals ~$30 (both) and on and on.... Best bet is to ask for a breakdown of the estimate.
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Oct 24, 2004 08:00 AM