Kyoo's Crash & Rebuild Thread
i can't open the hood as stated.
i can get this (https://www.maperformance.com/produc...nt=7590823427&) and connect the air tank to the intercooler, and watch for bubbles that way?
i can get this (https://www.maperformance.com/produc...nt=7590823427&) and connect the air tank to the intercooler, and watch for bubbles that way?
If its really jammed on just get the grinder out and cut that part of the hood off haha its going in the bin anyway.
That boost tester is fine but it goes onto the intake of your turbo not the intercooler. you may need a silicone adapter to go onto the intake of your intercooler. you then give it like 30psi and listen for leaks ( or spray soapy water if you want to)
Soapy water wont work under vacuum so wasting ur time there. Boost testers are a really important part of your pre track servicing anyway. need to check for any small leaks from clamps etc..
Back in 2005 I bought your car. Not literally your car but a car that had been crashed and the damage was very similar to yours but worse. I have learned a lot of hard lessons since then, and I don't want to see anyone else have to go through that unnecessarily.
Here is the thing about body shops, They want the work. They will tell you, the insurance company, etc what ever they need to to get the job. Underbid to get the job then request supplementals later. That's just how the industry works. Depending on what under the hood looks like and how off (if at all) the frame is it could easily be cheaper to buy a roller vs. fixing, with potentially a better outcome. The body shop wants to make money, and the better informed you are about the condition of your car going in the less likely you will be taken advantage of.
Back in 2005 I bought your car. Not literally your car but a car that had been crashed and the damage was very similar to yours but worse. I have learned a lot of hard lessons since then, and I don't want to see anyone else have to go through that unnecessarily.
Back in 2005 I bought your car. Not literally your car but a car that had been crashed and the damage was very similar to yours but worse. I have learned a lot of hard lessons since then, and I don't want to see anyone else have to go through that unnecessarily.
they basically said, it could be potentially be another 2g looking under the hood to see what all is bent, but that they doubted it - given no buckling, etc. i'm not totally trusting of the conditions of rollers either, and for me in my position, may be more headache than it's worth.
Well considering what I just told you, I personally wouldn't put a lot of confidence in that quote. Especially considering they haven't even looked under the hood, let alone measured it. That cost could explode if they have to drop the front assembly and straighten it on a frame jig. Or worst case (IMO) they just don't even fix it properly to keep the cost in your budget. I'm not trying to scare you or anything, but I would have it very carefully checked over and get a clear and comprehensive estimate before agreeing to have any work performed. A second opinion would also be very valuable.
My advice would be to find out who the local Porsche dealer uses and go there. If they estimate something scary it is what it is, but at least you will know. IMO its going to be the most trustworthy and then you can make informed decisions.
Last edited by Biggiesacks; Oct 22, 2019 at 01:33 PM.
this is good advice. if youve already been told 11 - 13k id be budgeting at least 15k.
When u can buy a roller for 7k its a no brainer in my opinion. you could buy a roller. pay somebody to do the conversion and probably still have change leftover.
Just do ur due diligence when u buy the roller. take a body expert/panelbeater with you who can check for dodgy repairs etc its not too hard. Alot of the time rollers are around because it was simply cheaper to part out a highly modified car than it was to try sell as is and theres nothing wrong with the body
You really need to take a step back and look at your options a bit more logically. i feel your being really emotive about the whole thing and it may just cause a whole new level of pain in the long run for you.
I have to agree with really thinking this through before committing to a course of action. I wonder what the car is worth as is if you pulled off the fancier parts and put on stock parts in their place? You might have to be without an Evo while you save up money to get another one, but it may be the better option if you don’t have the know-how, space and time to go the roller route.
i guess if u had the time space and know-how i would - i have none of those three. I work full time and go to school 5 hours away every Friday-Saturday getting home late Saturday night. either i pay someone to swap everything into a roller or i pay to fix the car. most of the cost is in parts that need to be replaced - ie labor and paint right now is about 4k, parts are around 8 - parts don't change from picking up a roller, so labor to fix just becomes labor to swap?
Parts to swap onto a roller is waaaay less than 8k. The point of buying a roller is you use the drivetrain parts required from your car. Labor would obviously depend on how much needs to be swapped.
i guess if u had the time space and know-how i would - i have none of those three. I work full time and go to school 5 hours away every Friday-Saturday getting home late Saturday night. either i pay someone to swap everything into a roller or i pay to fix the car. most of the cost is in parts that need to be replaced - ie labor and paint right now is about 4k, parts are around 8 - parts don't change from picking up a roller, so labor to fix just becomes labor to swap?
The roller route is better, but perhaps too much for your situation.









