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Is the paint job they quoted you to respray replacement panels or the whole car? Because that seems cheap for a full car and if it's not a full car you'll likely notice the respray pretty easily. If any of the metal underneath the fenders is bent you're looking at more labor. Did they talk to you about how they would go about fixing the rear quarter? If they're grafting on a new panel it's likely not OEM.
$7k seems extremely optimistic unless you're just paying them to paint and fix the metal, and not reassemble the car.
Is the paint job they quoted you to respray replacement panels or the whole car? Because that seems cheap for a full car and if it's not a full car you'll likely notice the respray pretty easily. If any of the metal underneath the fenders is bent you're looking at more labor. Did they talk to you about how they would go about fixing the rear quarter? If they're grafting on a new panel it's likely not OEM.
$7k seems extremely optimistic unless you're just paying them to paint and fix the metal, and not reassemble the car.
it's to respray the replacement panels - namely the bumper (found one in white), hood (found one in white), and fenders (found in white). then, cutting and welding in a new oem quarter panel, and painting probably the whole section there. they're ordering the quarter panel piece from mitsubishi with the provided part number, so it's oem.
the bumper will still need a respray but it's not going to be too bad. they've got a porsche boxster on site that they challenge people to find/see where they cut and welded and repainted - it was impossible for me where they did it or the difference in paint.
white may be tricky but they said they've got good paint matching stuff. i've got the jdm white bumper and evo 8's wicked white wing on the trunk, and couldn't tell the difference in whites from either of those, despite the paint living different lives. so i'm not worried about the hood or fenders matching, or the front bumper respray. i have the breakdown of costs from their quote in a previous post. but again quickly - 3.7k in parts 2k in labor to pull replace etc, 1.5k in paint labor, which will go down given the parts i've found are all wicked white, and paint supplies of 800, which will also go down. plus misc this and that.
i am expecting that it will cost more once they open it up, but not by too much - they obviously have incentives to quote low but the guy seemed pretty certain it wouldn't be too much given nothing buckled
Best of luck to you! Sucks to see something like this happen. And then the car gets locked up in body shop jail.... Hopefully it doesnt take them a year to get it done. I'm on the side of keep it and fix it.
Have you tried looking for OEM quarter panels?
Ive been looking for months and have had no luck.
They have been discontinued like everything else. So unless you can find dead stock somewhere, or someone that purchased and never used.
My vote is for the roller.
Surely dropping both cars off to a reputable shop, and having the drivetrains swapped would equal to be quite a bit less than what’s needed to get your chassis back in shape.
Have you tried looking for OEM quarter panels?
Ive been looking for months and have had no luck.
They have been discontinued like everything else. So unless you can find dead stock somewhere, or someone that purchased and never used.
My vote is for the roller.
Surely dropping both cars off to a reputable shop, and having the drivetrains swapped would equal to be quite a bit less than what’s needed to get your chassis back in shape.
They're out there new - I was able to get a quote for new (MN16046) - they may have changed from MR16046.
FWIW, one of the forum members that works at an auto shop reached out - located in Chicago suburbs, have the same capabilities etc., and is willing to do the work for way less. Of course, costs can always balloon, but I'm hoping they can get close to what they're saying. at the least, they're going to do the work at a lower hourly rate for me than the original shop, esp given it will be out of pocket for me. FWIW, links to the website for both shops below
What's your location Kyoo? I have quite a few spare parts from my original 9 that I tried repairing like you did (with worse damage though), that I wouldn't mind getting rid of. Spare fenders, hood, JDM 8 MR headlights, and other misc things.
What's your location Kyoo? I have quite a few spare parts from my original 9 that I tried repairing like you did (with worse damage though), that I wouldn't mind getting rid of. Spare fenders, hood, JDM 8 MR headlights, and other misc things.
midwest here. i've pretty much lined up everything i need parts-wise, but appreciate it. you got the new white car right?
midwest here. i've pretty much lined up everything i need parts-wise, but appreciate it. you got the new white car right?
Yep, honestly wish I went that route from the get go personally. Trying to bring my red car back to life cost me much more out of pocket versus having just bought another chassis from the beginning.
Yep, honestly wish I went that route from the get go personally. Trying to bring my red car back to life cost me much more out of pocket versus having just bought another chassis from the beginning.
plus, white is the fastest color! i used to have tb gsr and used to irk me at night thinking about how badly i wanted a white mr
Originally Posted by deylag
Another point I would like to add is that if OP repairs his Evo out of pocket it remains a clean title Evo IX.
5-7k out of pocket is a hard financial hit for a student. I would try to take out a personal loan or finance it some other way.
i guess clean title would matter for resale to third party but if i posted here i would certainly disclose, plus it's public given i made a thread about it. wouldnt be like, never raced, no accidents!
i'm also working full time. the money is unexpected and sucks but is affordable, especially if i space it out. i'm just making sure i'm not overlooking something major, while keeping it simple and economical
why exactly you need the 3 undertray pieces to use the SE lip on a non-SE bumper? seems like the lip and the bumper and the undertray would be independent, but the STM site is saying you need those 3 undertray additions to mount the lip?
