Kyoo's Crash & Rebuild Thread
my current undertray can just be separate from it, no?
Originally Posted by kyoo
but i mean, does the lip have to? i assume there are se guys out there that run with no undertray
my current undertray can just be separate from it, no?
my current undertray can just be separate from it, no?
if u press down on the hood to take the load off the catch you should be able to flick the tag to the left and it should pop. if its really jammed up then yea just undo those 3 bolts. id say the hood is just pressing up which is loading up the release hook so u cant get it off. if you put some pressure down on the hood it should be loose enough.
Good luck on your repairs! Glad your choosing to bring her back to life instead of going the roller route. I'll definitely stay tuned to your thread since I'm going to be trying to doing the same thing in January! Big up props.
On the topic of the SE lip, the evo IX front bumper bolts up to the SE lip and GSR lip the same and you can run either lip without an undertray if all you are doing is streeting the car. I did this for years. However, since this is a track car, I would highly advise either getting a front splitter or keeping the undertray for aero just as Sean mentioned.
Damn those exams...I don't think I will EVER go back for my masters. I was one of the guys that became successful only after kicking and screaming through college. It was really painful for me and I hated it. My younger brother just finished up too and I couldn't be more proud of him.
On the topic of the SE lip, the evo IX front bumper bolts up to the SE lip and GSR lip the same and you can run either lip without an undertray if all you are doing is streeting the car. I did this for years. However, since this is a track car, I would highly advise either getting a front splitter or keeping the undertray for aero just as Sean mentioned.
On the topic of the SE lip, the evo IX front bumper bolts up to the SE lip and GSR lip the same and you can run either lip without an undertray if all you are doing is streeting the car. I did this for years. However, since this is a track car, I would highly advise either getting a front splitter or keeping the undertray for aero just as Sean mentioned.
i'm running the undertray for aero, so i will go with the gsr lip. i'm sure the aero from se lip is marginal at best. the pieces you need to link the lip to the undertray is not worth it
if u press down on the hood to take the load off the catch you should be able to flick the tag to the left and it should pop. if its really jammed up then yea just undo those 3 bolts. id say the hood is just pressing up which is loading up the release hook so u cant get it off. if you put some pressure down on the hood it should be loose enough.
FWIW, the chicago shop is basically guaranteeing the labor, paint labor, and paint supplies to be about 2,700. this includes all pulls, however far off it is (not just up to 5-10mm from the other shop, and then more $ if more needed). however far off it is, they will pull it to spec. unless something catastrophic happened under there, that's what the cost will be. that's a pretty damn solid quote. includes stuff like burping the coolant, whatever else supplementary work that it requires. it also includese the qp work, welding in, bondo to smooth over and paint blend for the rear pass door & the qp.
what that leaves is the parts. I'm at about 3500 for the parts, which is mostly the hood, fenders, bumper, and misc **** that the bumper needs, lip etc. then i am getting new headlights, new rear bumper, hid module, and driver's side cv axle (prob), so about 6k in parts, 3k in labor & paint. still haven't gotten to the car to look at anything or test out the cv, but that's roughly where i'm at.
Last edited by kyoo; Oct 28, 2019 at 01:12 PM.
that's what i was thinking about actually. a constant reminder of what i did.
FWIW, the chicago shop is basically guaranteeing the labor, paint labor, and paint supplies to be about 2,700. this includes all pulls, however far off it is (not just up to 5-10mm from the other shop, and then more $ if more needed). however far off it is, they will pull it to spec. unless something catastrophic happened under there, that's what the cost will be. that's a pretty damn solid quote. includes stuff like burping the coolant, whatever else supplementary work that it requires. it also includese the qp work, welding in, bondo to smooth over and paint blend for the rear pass door & the qp.
what that leaves is the parts. I'm at about 3500 for the parts, which is mostly the hood, fenders, bumper, and misc **** that the bumper needs, lip etc. then i am getting new headlights, new rear bumper, hid module, and driver's side cv axle (prob), so about 6k in parts, 3k in labor & paint. still haven't gotten to the car to look at anything or test out the cv, but that's roughly where i'm at.
FWIW, the chicago shop is basically guaranteeing the labor, paint labor, and paint supplies to be about 2,700. this includes all pulls, however far off it is (not just up to 5-10mm from the other shop, and then more $ if more needed). however far off it is, they will pull it to spec. unless something catastrophic happened under there, that's what the cost will be. that's a pretty damn solid quote. includes stuff like burping the coolant, whatever else supplementary work that it requires. it also includese the qp work, welding in, bondo to smooth over and paint blend for the rear pass door & the qp.
what that leaves is the parts. I'm at about 3500 for the parts, which is mostly the hood, fenders, bumper, and misc **** that the bumper needs, lip etc. then i am getting new headlights, new rear bumper, hid module, and driver's side cv axle (prob), so about 6k in parts, 3k in labor & paint. still haven't gotten to the car to look at anything or test out the cv, but that's roughly where i'm at.
Nice that sounds like a much better quote then the guys with the porsche demo car haha. Just on the burping of coolant, evos dont need burping u just start em up haha









