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Old Oct 25, 2019 | 10:00 AM
  #121  
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Its so the undertray bolts to the SE lip because you remove the stock lower valance that the undertray currently attaches to.
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Old Oct 25, 2019 | 10:07 AM
  #122  
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Originally Posted by letsgetthisdone
Its so the undertray bolts to the SE lip because you remove the stock lower valance that the undertray currently attaches to.
but i mean, does the lip have to? i assume there are se guys out there that run with no undertray

my current undertray can just be separate from it, no?
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Old Oct 25, 2019 | 10:35 AM
  #123  
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Originally Posted by kyoo
but i mean, does the lip have to? i assume there are se guys out there that run with no undertray

my current undertray can just be separate from it, no?
If the under-tray can't bolt up to the lip, you can't run it. So you either need those extension pieces for the SE lip, or you don't run the under-tray. For aero, I wouldn't run without the under-tray.
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Old Oct 27, 2019 | 11:53 AM
  #124  
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this is the current status of the hood. just unbolt the latch then?


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Old Oct 27, 2019 | 02:41 PM
  #125  
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if u press down on the hood to take the load off the catch you should be able to flick the tag to the left and it should pop. if its really jammed up then yea just undo those 3 bolts. id say the hood is just pressing up which is loading up the release hook so u cant get it off. if you put some pressure down on the hood it should be loose enough.
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Old Oct 27, 2019 | 05:52 PM
  #126  
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Good luck on your repairs! Glad your choosing to bring her back to life instead of going the roller route. I'll definitely stay tuned to your thread since I'm going to be trying to doing the same thing in January! Big up props.
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Old Oct 27, 2019 | 06:37 PM
  #127  
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thanks. i didn't get a chance to go to the car today, and i've got exams next weekend so i'll shoot for next sunday
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Old Oct 28, 2019 | 10:57 AM
  #128  
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Originally Posted by kyoo
thanks. i didn't get a chance to go to the car today, and i've got exams next weekend so i'll shoot for next sunday
Damn those exams...I don't think I will EVER go back for my masters. I was one of the guys that became successful only after kicking and screaming through college. It was really painful for me and I hated it. My younger brother just finished up too and I couldn't be more proud of him.

On the topic of the SE lip, the evo IX front bumper bolts up to the SE lip and GSR lip the same and you can run either lip without an undertray if all you are doing is streeting the car. I did this for years. However, since this is a track car, I would highly advise either getting a front splitter or keeping the undertray for aero just as Sean mentioned.
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Old Oct 28, 2019 | 12:06 PM
  #129  
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Originally Posted by Pal215
Damn those exams...I don't think I will EVER go back for my masters. I was one of the guys that became successful only after kicking and screaming through college. It was really painful for me and I hated it. My younger brother just finished up too and I couldn't be more proud of him.

On the topic of the SE lip, the evo IX front bumper bolts up to the SE lip and GSR lip the same and you can run either lip without an undertray if all you are doing is streeting the car. I did this for years. However, since this is a track car, I would highly advise either getting a front splitter or keeping the undertray for aero just as Sean mentioned.
it's brutal, booth is one of the top schools in the nation for mbas so the competition is rough.

i'm running the undertray for aero, so i will go with the gsr lip. i'm sure the aero from se lip is marginal at best. the pieces you need to link the lip to the undertray is not worth it
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Old Oct 28, 2019 | 12:19 PM
  #130  
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Originally Posted by bee-raddd
if u press down on the hood to take the load off the catch you should be able to flick the tag to the left and it should pop. if its really jammed up then yea just undo those 3 bolts. id say the hood is just pressing up which is loading up the release hook so u cant get it off. if you put some pressure down on the hood it should be loose enough.
My thoughts exactly, I really think revealing the pressure on the hood by pushing down will allow it to release. Otherwise pop the 3 bolts off and call it a day. Just keep in mind if you remove it, might not be able to get it latched back down. But hey hood is trash anyway so at that point pop the 4 bolts off and remove the hood.
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Old Oct 28, 2019 | 12:37 PM
  #131  
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yea - i tried when i first tried to open the hood, but i'll try to push it down harder
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Old Oct 28, 2019 | 12:42 PM
  #132  
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nothing an angle grinder cant open
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Old Oct 28, 2019 | 12:49 PM
  #133  
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No need. If pushing down doesnt releave enough just zip off the 3 bolts. This is literally a 30 second affair. Broken hood will make some cool garage wall art too IMO!
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Old Oct 28, 2019 | 12:58 PM
  #134  
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Originally Posted by heel2toe
No need. If pushing down doesnt releave enough just zip off the 3 bolts. This is literally a 30 second affair. Broken hood will make some cool garage wall art too IMO!
that's what i was thinking about actually. a constant reminder of what i did.

FWIW, the chicago shop is basically guaranteeing the labor, paint labor, and paint supplies to be about 2,700. this includes all pulls, however far off it is (not just up to 5-10mm from the other shop, and then more $ if more needed). however far off it is, they will pull it to spec. unless something catastrophic happened under there, that's what the cost will be. that's a pretty damn solid quote. includes stuff like burping the coolant, whatever else supplementary work that it requires. it also includese the qp work, welding in, bondo to smooth over and paint blend for the rear pass door & the qp.

what that leaves is the parts. I'm at about 3500 for the parts, which is mostly the hood, fenders, bumper, and misc **** that the bumper needs, lip etc. then i am getting new headlights, new rear bumper, hid module, and driver's side cv axle (prob), so about 6k in parts, 3k in labor & paint. still haven't gotten to the car to look at anything or test out the cv, but that's roughly where i'm at.

Last edited by kyoo; Oct 28, 2019 at 01:12 PM.
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Old Oct 29, 2019 | 11:01 AM
  #135  
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Originally Posted by kyoo
that's what i was thinking about actually. a constant reminder of what i did.

FWIW, the chicago shop is basically guaranteeing the labor, paint labor, and paint supplies to be about 2,700. this includes all pulls, however far off it is (not just up to 5-10mm from the other shop, and then more $ if more needed). however far off it is, they will pull it to spec. unless something catastrophic happened under there, that's what the cost will be. that's a pretty damn solid quote. includes stuff like burping the coolant, whatever else supplementary work that it requires. it also includese the qp work, welding in, bondo to smooth over and paint blend for the rear pass door & the qp.

what that leaves is the parts. I'm at about 3500 for the parts, which is mostly the hood, fenders, bumper, and misc **** that the bumper needs, lip etc. then i am getting new headlights, new rear bumper, hid module, and driver's side cv axle (prob), so about 6k in parts, 3k in labor & paint. still haven't gotten to the car to look at anything or test out the cv, but that's roughly where i'm at.

Nice that sounds like a much better quote then the guys with the porsche demo car haha. Just on the burping of coolant, evos dont need burping u just start em up haha
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