ah gotcha. either way it looks useable in either situation, pending the spacer size like you said. it may be a viable option even in place of an rck, as its cheaper and the rck i just had to chuck in the garbage did not stand the test of time very well...$225 every other year for tie rods/balljoints sucks.

 

Just FYI, I got an email response back from MM about the sleeves and if they are LH thread on one end or RH on both. They said it would be unsafe to have them LH/RH which I can agree with. If the nuts broke loose or weren't tight, it could back itself all the way out at the worst or have big toe changes at best.


So basically you'll be adjusting these just as you would the standard tie rod.

 

Mustang tapers for these years is 10 or 9 degrees or whatever. Their taper won't work.


THis solution sounds great...... but it means i have to drill the spindle. I don't wanna do that

 

To drill the spindle, I would take it to a machine shop and have them ream it. That way you get a precision round hole. Drill bits don't always make the best holes in think cast pieces.

 

I finally got back up to RobiSpec on Friday and picked up these bad boys. They are fully adjustable, and all sorts of win. I will have them on tonight and snap a pic once installed. The evo is about 1 week away from being back on the road.

 

all the headaches i had trying to figure out what to do and you post that THE DAY AFTER i weld my tie rods LOL...killin me. I tried for a week to get a hold of robi...

im happy with how mine came out, the nut wound up giving me 6 more turns of engagement, but i would much rather run that new version you have...

 

Trying to convince Sean Farrah at SPL parts to make us some tie rod ends.

For those of you who aren't familiar, SPL parts hands down makes the best suspension bits in existence for Nissans. He's recently branched out to porches and the BRZ/FRS. I'll see if i can convince him to support the evo

 

Nice! My old roommate has a slew of SPL parts on his S14. They're awesome quality.

 

Yup! They are big into 240s, good quality stuff but expensive.

 

I just had a quick email exchange with Rob at RaceFab and it sounds like they recommend using their Evo X tubular arms (vs 7-9) for track/race applications, but he didn't tell me what the width difference was compared to OEM 8/9 arms. They also offer a 30mm roll center/bumpsteer correction kit with longer tie rod ends to go along with their arms, which is almost an inch more correction that the Whiteline kit offers, as I understand it.

 

If that's the kit that I saw, I certainly wouldn't run that 20mm dia steel dowel that long. Haven't done any math on it, but its a significant increase in cantilever from stock both for itself to bend and to apply torque to the hub itself (though the latter is probably fine).


Then adding the same length to the steering arm seems like a great way to have a springy vague steering. Again, haven't actually run numbers but gut says its not a great way to go.

 

Here's the pic he sent to me...It's a little different than what's on the website.

 

That doesn't look too terrible. The shoulder is significantly bigger than the major diameter of the taper. I wonder if the steering arm can really handle that extra leverage though.

 

Anyone have a good idea on realistic steering forces? I cant seem to rationalize that one to myself completely.


I'm sure the scrub radius and caster angle have something to do with the force on the steering arm but have no basis for what is a realistic force to start the math.

 

With the tie rod disconnected, I can turn the tire by hand (grabbing the tire). I know that useless, but what the car is sitting it doesn't take much.


I wouldn't be concerned about just steering, at least not as much as bouncing the car off of curbs.