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Okay so here's how my splitter is set up. Two cables in the front, adjustable with turn buckles (think I'm going to change it over to rods this winter). The cables are fastened around my tubular crash bar.
Two brackets to connect to the frame rails. Driver side goes straight to the frame rail, passenger side connects to oil cooler bracket that's connected to the frame rail. Bolt on the bottom goes through the splitter and the bumper cover before threading into the nut clip on the bracket.
The last two attachments are 3" side aluminum tabs that are bolted to the rear of the splitter on one end and to the east west bolt hole locations in the subframe on the other. Couldn't really get a great pic of them without jacking the car up. Ignore the spacer under the bolt head, I'm not running the east west brace right now, they're just there to help it clear the downpipe normally.
Lol it's a ****ty pic. It's alumalite, very very beat up alumalite. Might make a new one this winter if I can get a sheet cheap enough.
Ah. I was viewing from my phone an saw the scrapes LOL.
I was gonna use alumalite, but the local guy shot his price up to an absurd amount. I've been following links from other members here, but can't seem to find they deals they did. I'll keep looking, though.
Ah. I was viewing from my phone an saw the scrapes LOL.
I was gonna use alumalite, but the local guy shot his price up to an absurd amount. I've been following links from other members here, but can't seem to find they deals they did. I'll keep looking, though.
Mine comes off in a matter of minutes using race ramps, four bolts that are run through holes in the crossmember, and three in the rad support, I welded a nut over the holes to accept the bolts.
I've got another big question for this Aero thread...
How are you measuring and proving that your aero is working? How many lbs of down-force (straights, corners), on the front versus the rear? The research I've done shows that just copying others without analysis can make a car worse, especially in balance.
Therefore I see the answer as on-car datalogging. This doesn't require modeling, CFD, wind tunnels etc. Proves that in application on your vehicle that the aero package "works".
Sensors:
1. Linear pots and using spring rates to calculate down-force would be a cheaper way to measure, but I'm not sure it'll give you the resolution required, especially for mild cars.
2. Load cells - A better option that I've seen in very high end builds would be load cells on the shocks (works for our Macpherson suspension), but I'm not finding anything off the shelf.
I've got another big question for this Aero thread...
How are you measuring and proving that your aero is working? How many lbs of down-force (straights, corners), on the front versus the rear? The research I've done shows that just copying others without analysis can make a car worse, especially in balance.
Therefore I see the answer as on-car datalogging. This doesn't require modeling, CFD, wind tunnels etc. Proves that in application on your vehicle that the aero package "works".
Sensors:
1. Linear pots and using spring rates to calculate down-force would be a cheaper way to measure, but I'm not sure it'll give you the resolution required, especially for mild cars.
2. Load cells - A better option that I've seen in very high end builds would be load cells on the shocks (works for our Macpherson suspension), but I'm not finding anything off the shelf.
And what data-logging rate is required?
That all would be nice, but me personally cannot afford it right now. I base it on straight speeds for measuring drag, max lateral g's and lap times for increase in grip that I attribute to my aero as I have not changed my suspension setup from miller in Utah in 2014. Only variables I'm changing are my aero. I would also like to point out that virtual dyno can effectively measure decrease in drag as one run made without aero followed up by a second with it on effects the dyno numbers LOL.
What are pros and cons of linear shock pots vs laser ride height sensors? Andrew Brilliant tried explaining to me why he preferred the shock pots but I didn't really follow. As related to measuring ride height for aero and suspension setup.
What are pros and cons of linear shock pots vs laser ride height sensors? Andrew Brilliant tried explaining to me why he preferred the shock pots but I didn't really follow. As related to measuring ride height for aero and suspension setup.
I certainly cannot provide an Andrew Brilliant level analysis, but here's what I can guess from research.
Shock Pots
+ Cheaper
+ Durable and weather resistant
+ Well documented (standard) suspension measurement
- Mechanical Wear and interference
- Response rate
- Precision
Laser Ride
+ High data rates
+ No mechanical interference
+ Highly Precise
- Expensive
- Optical -> Less durable, needs to stay clean
- Not much documentation (high end race teams)
I certainly cannot provide an Andrew Brilliant level analysis, but here's what I can guess from research.
Shock Pots
+ Cheaper
+ Durable and weather resistant
+ Well documented (standard) suspension measurement
- Mechanical Wear and interference
- Response rate
- Precision
Laser Ride
+ High data rates
+ No mechanical interference
+ Highly Precise
- Expensive
- Optical -> Less durable, needs to stay clean
- Not much documentation (high end race teams)
Good info/comparison. I believe the price of the laser stuff has come down to a reasonable amount lately. But yes probably still a fair amount more than the shock pots.
What at I am wondering - what's the difference between the data gained from each that may make one or the other more useful for testing/tuning aero and suspension setup? The laser directly measures the ride height of each of the 4 corners, but that's all it does right? The shock pots measures the shock travel, which can be mathed out to equate to a wheel height, which can be correlated to a ride height, correct?
