Blkstreak

iTrader: (22)

Im pretty sure you installed it backwards.

Post a pic

buchnerj

iTrader: (19)

I started having serious surging issues with my APS at 35ish psi. I lubed it up, cleaned it all out and still, surging. I have teflon tape on the adjustment screw and have tried many different positions on the thread screw. Still issues. I bought a Tial Q Recirc BOV and we will see if this will cure any issues, but I wouldn't rely on them for to long after 35+ psi.

project_skyline

iTrader: (30)

Route the hose to the LICP.

Appauldd

iTrader: (22)

+1

nonschlont

It should be working great for you. I also recommend running a direct vacuum line from the intake manifold to it (no "T" in the line anywhere) as this will certainly make the valve more responsive.

The port coming off of the side must go to the pipe with your air filter attached. The other port will go to the pressurized upper pipe.

Think of it like this.....the boost pressure will push against the bottom of the piston inside the valve. If you have the boost pressure hitting the side of the piston, you have it installed backwards.

nonschlont

iTrader: (3)

I have it set up, just as u described. Nipple on top, side port is going to the turbo outlet pipe, (which the maf and intake are attached to) and the bottom port goes to the pipe that routes up to the UICP. I will take a pic of it when I get home.

I actually bought some fuel line and tried to run it the other way (backwards) first, and went out for a spin, and immediately came home and turned it around.

I do have a "T" in the line, (boost guage) but right at the intake mani. My mechanic says this will do absolutely nothin in terms of response, but will switch the "T" to the FPR line for me if it makes me feel better. I should just make him do it... lol I(f I knew how to get to my boost guage nipple W/ out breaking anything, (a-pillar) I would do it myself...

Like I said, it seems to be running ok, just wondering why I have to have the adj. screw out so far, or it will surge during cruising. And Im not talking about when you let off! Im talking about when accelerating, and u can feel the reversion of air, as well as hear it.

Appauldd

iTrader: (22)

Your tuner is correct about the T going to your gauge....it won't affect the BOV. I just like to have a dedicate line so that any "potential" risk is mitigated.

Adjustment is necessary. Every car is different too. Just adjust it until you get the best response. It will take a few tweeks.

Every bov will surge/flutter if you are in the wrong gear and high load. Just nature of the beast. You can minimize this with proper adjustment. You want it as loose as possible and not affect idle.

Generally speaking it needs to be set about 1 lb stronger than the psi of vacuum you have at idle.

nonschlont

iTrader: (3)

This is what I have been doing. I set it to have 2 threads out, and have been backing it out ever since. (probobly should have done it the other way around. lol) Right now its ~ 5-6 threads out, and is now running the way it should, just thought that all of the units would need the same adjustment or close. Mine is the opposite of what ive read. (almost fully out) No idle issues, or stalling, tho.

When I say surging while cruising, theres not much load, probobly under 100 (never logged it) but was just "cruising". I didnt even get to do a pull w/ it all the way tight, as the cruise to my logging spot was horrible.

Paul, school me on this 1 psi stronger than vacuum. please.

TIA

Phil

shadow1

iTrader: (38)

What was your setup before the APS BOV? When was the port work done?

nonschlont

iTrader: (3)

I have/had the stocker on before the aps. Porting, I got from reese tuning. He had the ported hotside from another customer, and just swapped it w/ mine. mil-spec TB came off his personal rs, and the int. mani. port match was done the same day, in Jan. of this year.

shadow1

iTrader: (38)

Did you have problems with the stock BOV?

nonschlont

iTrader: (3)

I was getting some kind of flutter/surging prior to full spool (~ 3000 ish rpm) and was thinking the bov was leaking... I dont think swapping the bov, completely resolved the issue. Maybe slightly less, tho.

Its as if, the car doesnt like to start spooling under 2800 anymore. If I do, I get some type of flutter/surge... Its starts to spool, then the flutter, and u can feel the car isnt hitting as hard. I believe I have a leak somewhere, just havent been able to find it...

shadow1

iTrader: (38)

You definitely need to pressure test your setup. Leaks are common.

max4rw

iTrader: (8)

yeah that sounds like a nasty boost leak, I just installed an aps dv with my injen setup and I love it! better drivability than the ix dv, dosent flutter at partial throttle like the stock one did!

Appauldd

iTrader: (22)

Here is how I adjusted my APS bov.

1) With the car running and fully warmed up you can look into the vent hole and see the piston.
2) I loosened the adjustment until I could see the piston start to move in and out slightly because of the vacuum being applied to it.
3) Once you see the piston start moving, tighten the adjustment until the piston stops moving and then tighten the adjustment about an extra 1/4 turn.

This will be the ideal setting. You want the BOV as loose as possible, but not leak at idle.

Allow me to explain a little...

When the car is under boost there is positive pressure on both sides of the piston. Thus, because the pressure is equal, the bov holds shut. As soon as you let off the gas, closing the throttle body there is instant vacuum on the back side of the piston and there is still positive pressure on the other side of the piston from the boost build up. This pressure difference violently opens the bov until the pressure is equal again.

When you are getting flutter at the bov it is most likely that it is set too tight.

Another reason for the flutter is that you may be on the surge line of the turbo. This happens most often when you are under higher loads and low rpm.