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Water-Meth Q&A (Labonte)

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Old Nov 30, 2009 | 05:37 AM
  #106  
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From: Western Slope
What size vacuum line is used on the vc-25. My kit stopped working last night and when I checked my vc25 the vacuum line just pulled right off.
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Old Nov 30, 2009 | 04:23 PM
  #107  
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From: freedom,pa
Originally Posted by Team Scream
Good question, any answer to this?????????
its all digital, they use a flowmeter and the gauge is digital. Top notch stuff.
no delay and works fantastic
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Old Dec 5, 2009 | 07:58 AM
  #108  
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From: AL
I've got an install type question. Instead of tapping into a 12v+ wire for the pump and all controllers, would it be better to run a relay setup with a 12v coming straight off the battery? It seems that a pump would draw a bit of power from whatever source you tap into. This would ensure the pump gets all the power it demands, and doesn't rob it from other components of the car.
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Old Dec 5, 2009 | 09:28 PM
  #109  
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From: Rockford, IL
Originally Posted by Psquared
I've got an install type question. Instead of tapping into a 12v+ wire for the pump and all controllers, would it be better to run a relay setup with a 12v coming straight off the battery? It seems that a pump would draw a bit of power from whatever source you tap into. This would ensure the pump gets all the power it demands, and doesn't rob it from other components of the car.
Peak current draw from the pumps is about 10amps. Average is about 4 amps. Nothing wrong with going to the battery with a relay to power the system if you can't find an available circuit.
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Old Dec 5, 2009 | 09:29 PM
  #110  
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From: Rockford, IL
Originally Posted by tweaker41
What size vacuum line is used on the vc-25. My kit stopped working last night and when I checked my vc25 the vacuum line just pulled right off.
5/16" ID on the hose to connect to the VC-25. Use a ty wrap or hose clip for higher boost applications to keep hose attached.
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Old Dec 5, 2009 | 09:44 PM
  #111  
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From: Rockford, IL
Originally Posted by Team Scream
Good question, any answer to this?????????
All Labonte manufactured VC controllers were updated sometime ago using the latest in automotive electronics. The stage II controllers, VC-25, VC-100, VC-MAF and VC-100, now all have a second 12 volt output channel to direct drive the fluid control solenoid or activate a NOS relay. This gives your instant response for the solenoid and locks pressurized fluid in the line like an accumulator. In the old days with shurflo pumps, you used to be able to control the solenoid with the pump signal line. This is no longer possible with the newer 250psi pumps due to how fast they activate. Without a solenoid control signal the 250 pump will make too much pressure and lock the solenoid shut until you are at almost full boost when connected to the pump signal - not good. So direct drive is a must for consistent performance.

In addition to the second channel, the controller electronics have been upgraded with multiple levels of protection and fault detection for shorts, revers battery, automotive transients, bad ground and other protection making them the most reliable and easy to install with only 4 wires to connect. Connect it to your spark plug wire if you want, it will take it. To stand behind our reliability claim all vc controllers now have a 2 year warranty.

Last edited by Labonte MotorSports; Dec 5, 2009 at 09:47 PM.
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Old Dec 6, 2009 | 07:24 AM
  #112  
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From: AL
Thanks for the response. I can locate a bunch of 12+ sources. I just feel better knowing it's got a direct line with max amperage available through a relay and not robbing it from some other 12v device like the ecu or fuse panel. Thanks again!
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Old Dec 9, 2009 | 10:30 AM
  #113  
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From: so cal
Originally Posted by Psquared
I've got an install type question. Instead of tapping into a 12v+ wire for the pump and all controllers, would it be better to run a relay setup with a 12v coming straight off the battery? It seems that a pump would draw a bit of power from whatever source you tap into. This would ensure the pump gets all the power it demands, and doesn't rob it from other components of the car.
make sure you don't try to put a relay between the controller and pump. regular relays don't respond to pwm.

btw glad to hear the lms controllers have been upgraded. that old snow junk was very 1978-ish technology.
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Old Dec 9, 2009 | 04:50 PM
  #114  
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From: AL
Yup. The relay is for the RED 12v wire going into the controller, not the green wire out to the pump.
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Old Dec 10, 2009 | 08:14 AM
  #115  
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From: so cal
Oh, okay. Good call. Using relays is always a good idea IMO.
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Old Dec 13, 2009 | 11:43 AM
  #116  
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From: AL
A question for Labonte. I was about to install the relay setup then it dawned on me that running a 12v line from the battery is not regulated. I metered the relay setup and it's seeing 14+ volts with the car running. I know the pump is a 12 volt pump, can it handle the extra voltage? I know it will work, but may get hotter than it should and may not last as long. Maybe I'll just tap a wire after all.
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Old Dec 13, 2009 | 03:47 PM
  #117  
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From: Jville, NC
^ You are such a techie.
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Old Dec 14, 2009 | 04:02 PM
  #118  
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From: Rockford, IL
Originally Posted by Psquared
A question for Labonte. I was about to install the relay setup then it dawned on me that running a 12v line from the battery is not regulated. I metered the relay setup and it's seeing 14+ volts with the car running. I know the pump is a 12 volt pump, can it handle the extra voltage? I know it will work, but may get hotter than it should and may not last as long. Maybe I'll just tap a wire after all.
Voltage regulator is in your alternator. You can run the battery to relay then into our controller. Our controller regulates voltage to pump and has internal fuse also.
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