***Official UT Chat Thread***
a clean rotor surface is going to get you a better pad transfer, right now your rotor is pretty much grooved for your pad, new pads may not get 100% contact and your not getting full potential out of your brakes
but its your choice im just giving you my advice as a mechanic
but its your choice im just giving you my advice as a mechanic
Full potential is completely pointless for how much it costs to A) have your rotors turned and B) replace your rotors earlier because you had them turned. I got plenty of "potential" and then some out of every set of pads I used, and none wore any faster than was expected.
I'm just giving you my advice as someone who pays mechanics and makes sure I don't pay them too much.
I'm just giving you my advice as someone who pays mechanics and makes sure I don't pay them too much.

Who owns a black evo with purple or blue wheels?
Last evening I separated a tire on southbound I-15, while I was sitting there this guy saw me from the northbound side & flipped around to see if I needed help. I just wanted to say thanks for going out of your way to see if another evo needed help.
With that said, it looks like I need tires, anybody got a hookup with discount tire?
Last evening I separated a tire on southbound I-15, while I was sitting there this guy saw me from the northbound side & flipped around to see if I needed help. I just wanted to say thanks for going out of your way to see if another evo needed help.
With that said, it looks like I need tires, anybody got a hookup with discount tire?
Im sure he'd give you a killer deal, he hooked me up with the new setupI just feel fortunate that there was no damage to the car or wheel.
Yeah, I'm going out of town for a week. Dropped the car off for 30k service and to have them figure out why my ABS light keeps coming on... Can't wait to have a fully functioning car ready to go.
any machine you turn rotors with it precise , taking a few MM off the rotor isnt gonna be that bad its not like he is gonna take 1/4 inch off them. It takes very little to surface them nice and smooth
and IMO 200$ for 4 rotors is pretty damn cheap for a performance car
anyway im done arguing about it, obviously everyone on here is a mechanic
and IMO 200$ for 4 rotors is pretty damn cheap for a performance car
anyway im done arguing about it, obviously everyone on here is a mechanic
I have the Redstuff pads right now and I think I have pad transfer. Got an alignment and rebalanced wheels twice and I can still feel a slight wobble above 65 mph without brakes pressed. Pad transfer?
any machine you turn rotors with it precise , taking a few MM off the rotor isnt gonna be that bad its not like he is gonna take 1/4 inch off them. It takes very little to surface them nice and smooth
and IMO 200$ for 4 rotors is pretty damn cheap for a performance car
anyway im done arguing about it, obviously everyone on here is a mechanic
and IMO 200$ for 4 rotors is pretty damn cheap for a performance car
anyway im done arguing about it, obviously everyone on here is a mechanic
I take a middle of the ground approach. I'll let a shop shave that outer lip off and let them just scuff the mid-section of the rotor. A lot of shops want to see that really pretty grit shine of a perfectly flat rotor. For myself as long as the outer lip is removed (to allow proper pad float) and the surface looks like it'll bed a new pad, one or two small grooves be dammed.
My space stuff machinery guys at work here took at look at my last rotor question and answer period and said the middle ground approach is probably 95% there.
On the brake thing also, Timmay's suggestion of going Girodisc is a good one.
Yes we love you still Timmay - what did you expect from a car enthusiast forum?
~j.
With one of the biggest issue I believe is that shops (esp in Utah) take off too much, and its hard to guarantee they won't take off too much ... and a shop not being a fully "machinist" shop really don't have a consistent machining process. The machine is suppost to make that up for you, but I know of about 50% of the machines out there have a ton of variation with them. Then there is the $3.00 bit they're suppost to replace every X rotors that they don't replace it because it "looks good" etc etc ad nasium.
I take a middle of the ground approach. I'll let a shop shave that outer lip off and let them just scuff the mid-section of the rotor. A lot of shops want to see that really pretty grit shine of a perfectly flat rotor. For myself as long as the outer lip is removed (to allow proper pad float) and the surface looks like it'll bed a new pad, one or two small grooves be dammed.
My space stuff machinery guys at work here took at look at my last rotor question and answer period and said the middle ground approach is probably 95% there.
On the brake thing also, Timmay's suggestion of going Girodisc is a good one.
Yes we love you still Timmay - what did you expect from a car enthusiast forum?
~j.
I take a middle of the ground approach. I'll let a shop shave that outer lip off and let them just scuff the mid-section of the rotor. A lot of shops want to see that really pretty grit shine of a perfectly flat rotor. For myself as long as the outer lip is removed (to allow proper pad float) and the surface looks like it'll bed a new pad, one or two small grooves be dammed.
My space stuff machinery guys at work here took at look at my last rotor question and answer period and said the middle ground approach is probably 95% there.
On the brake thing also, Timmay's suggestion of going Girodisc is a good one.
Yes we love you still Timmay - what did you expect from a car enthusiast forum?
~j.
But as mentioned. I still appreciate the all the new info. Especially on the magic pads recommendation.
Anyone know of a BBY viii in Ogden area other than Richard and Logan? Saw him and waved, but never seen him before.
also Biggie, you got relatives up in Brigham? My dad thought it was my car at first and took pictures of it and everything haha. Even one of my friends thought it was me.
also Biggie, you got relatives up in Brigham? My dad thought it was my car at first and took pictures of it and everything haha. Even one of my friends thought it was me.
What a great way to start my weekend I towed my car home today from my moms house cause she is moving, so we loaded my car on a car hauler and when we get to my house my car rolled back and hit the ramps ruined my rear bumper, broke my tail light scratched the sh** out of my car and to top it all off I had to help my brothers move too.
For all of you wondering why I didn't just drive my car home is because my own brother hit my car pulling into the driveway, anyways his insurance is taking there sweet *** time sending me money to fix it.
So does anyone have the following parts available for a EVO9 MR
front drivers side fender
drivers side headlight
front bumper
front lip
acd pump
Evo 9 tail lights
drivers side in fender well or splash guard
and anyone who knows a good body shop in the ogden area that is fair on price too
For all of you wondering why I didn't just drive my car home is because my own brother hit my car pulling into the driveway, anyways his insurance is taking there sweet *** time sending me money to fix it.
So does anyone have the following parts available for a EVO9 MR
front drivers side fender
drivers side headlight
front bumper
front lip
acd pump
Evo 9 tail lights
drivers side in fender well or splash guard
and anyone who knows a good body shop in the ogden area that is fair on price too




did you get those from V?
