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Old Jun 6, 2009 | 08:16 AM
  #25621  
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Originally Posted by DIDYSIS
I already want a 37R or 40R If I get another turbo I am thinking of going big. Even though the 35R should be plenty
4088R ftw
Old Jun 6, 2009 | 08:18 AM
  #25622  
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Where are you guys putting your boost and wideband gauges?
Old Jun 6, 2009 | 08:23 AM
  #25623  
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From: WJ Utah
Originally Posted by k20turbo
Where are you guys putting your boost and wideband gauges?
in the car JK
Old Jun 6, 2009 | 09:12 AM
  #25624  
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From: Slc Utah aka SL,UT
Originally Posted by DIDYSIS
Well I do install them at 100 foot pounds and never had then back out or any problems with them. Normal for all the main shops is between 100-90, Just did mine right now like 5 minuted ago. 100 is perfect.
Well like I said 100 is not what your supposed to tq them at and don't be surpirsed if other ppl start chiming in the same thing, shops go by instructions or all data and nothing anywhere or on forums tells you 100
Old Jun 6, 2009 | 09:18 AM
  #25625  
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From: Slc Utah aka SL,UT
Originally Posted by ~BoOsTeR~
Put my Black ETS FMIC and EPM LICP on finally. Turbo winds up much easier. Is there a secret to getting the bumper back on without any gaps?

Removed worn upper bumper mesh, too - it was faded. Looks much better, especially w/the balck front mount. Removed the cooling panel on the hood too, looks sick, IMO.

Big cams, little turbo setup is finally taking flight, lol. All I have to do now is t belt, throw in cams, springs, retainers, valves, seats, guides, o2dump, URAD, 75mm TB, Intake Mani, Ex Mani, retune, you get the picture.

I'm leaning very heavily towards a ported BNIB Green or the Tomei right now. The Green would be much easier for me to get, but take longer - I could put it on my SEMA card. Tomei I'd have to come up with the cash, but it's cheaper and flows more and would get here sooner, I think.

What would you guys do?
I know what your aiming for in your setup and a 35r lag doesn't go in the mix

It would be very interesting to see what the tomei does if you went green route or a bbk or any other 9 based build at least you could send off your ix turbo to get some $$ knocked off..I say port whatever turbo you get on the hs a fp red would be sick of course
Old Jun 6, 2009 | 09:21 AM
  #25626  
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From: Slc Utah aka SL,UT
Didysis your setup is good man don't go with different turbo hta35r on a 2.3 ftw

Originally Posted by k20turbo
Where are you guys putting your boost and wideband gauges?
Steering column, gauge cluster or gauge pods I vote against the gauge pod
Old Jun 6, 2009 | 10:06 AM
  #25627  
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Originally Posted by wesside
Well like I said 100 is not what your supposed to tq them at and don't be surpirsed if other ppl start chiming in the same thing, shops go by instructions or all data and nothing anywhere or on forums tells you 100
Yeah, I've never heard of them going that tight. I think recommended is like 45. The ARP suggested is even lower than stock if you use their included moly grease.

I think the problem comes in when the iron block and alum head expand at different rates and there has to be a little room to give somewhere. I would fear that your head might distort over time with that much torque, but yours is a good test case, so let's see what happens and let us know.
Old Jun 6, 2009 | 10:16 AM
  #25628  
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From: Salt Lake City
Originally Posted by wesside
Didysis your setup is good man don't go with different turbo hta35r on a 2.3 ftw



Steering column, gauge cluster or gauge pods I vote against the gauge pod
Yeah I really dont like the pillar pods... guess I will look into the steering column one
Old Jun 6, 2009 | 10:23 AM
  #25629  
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From: WJ Utah
im doing a 90 supercharged convertible 5.0 cobra with Nos he is going to fail
Old Jun 6, 2009 | 10:24 AM
  #25630  
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From: Slc Utah aka SL,UT
Originally Posted by k20turbo
Yeah I really dont like the pillar pods... guess I will look into the steering column one
I've had egt & boost on my steering column for a long time...I have a oil pressure that I've needed to get out of my dresser drawer for just as long I just don't know where to put it and eventually I'll go with the the 3 gauge cluster above the a/c but I want in cf

This isn't no pod just velcro




For a wideband it would be sick to do the lancer spot (same size as the mr/rs mitsu gauges...40-42mm?)

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...ul-gauges.html

Last edited by wesside; Jun 6, 2009 at 10:27 AM.
Old Jun 6, 2009 | 10:58 AM
  #25631  
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From: Salt Lake City
Hey Wes, put your rotors on and take some pics man!
Old Jun 6, 2009 | 11:10 AM
  #25632  
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45 WHAT!!!!!!!!!!!! Normal for ARP is 80, Well you guys do what you want ill do as I want, thats the nice thing of doing it your self.


Originally Posted by eficker
Yeah, I've never heard of them going that tight. I think recommended is like 45. The ARP suggested is even lower than stock if you use their included moly grease.

I think the problem comes in when the iron block and alum head expand at different rates and there has to be a little room to give somewhere. I would fear that your head might distort over time with that much torque, but yours is a good test case, so let's see what happens and let us know.

Last edited by DIDYSIS; Jun 6, 2009 at 11:19 AM.
Old Jun 6, 2009 | 11:19 AM
  #25633  
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From: Utah, SLC
Originally Posted by wesside
Well you got the ported turbo still

Between my friend and I is what I said some stuff is in vegas storage unit.

I also have a evo 8 head, stock cams..my friend has a evo 8 block and head as well
haha Ya and I still need to take it apart

Originally Posted by ~BoOsTeR~
Put my Black ETS FMIC and EPM LICP on finally. Turbo winds up much easier. Is there a secret to getting the bumper back on without any gaps?

Removed worn upper bumper mesh, too - it was faded. Looks much better, especially w/the balck front mount. Removed the cooling panel on the hood too, looks sick, IMO.

Big cams, little turbo setup is finally taking flight, lol. All I have to do now is t belt, throw in cams, springs, retainers, valves, seats, guides, o2dump, URAD, 75mm TB, Intake Mani, Ex Mani, retune, you get the picture.

I'm leaning very heavily towards a ported BNIB Green or the Tomei right now. The Green would be much easier for me to get, but take longer - I could put it on my SEMA card. Tomei I'd have to come up with the cash, but it's cheaper and flows more and would get here sooner, I think.

What would you guys do?
Want to See pics and on the Build thats sick what you are doing and as far as the turbo I would like to see someone with the Tomei since no one really has them. The Green everyone has around here JK but both are good turbos. I think Tomei > green right now.

Originally Posted by DIDYSIS
FP RED or HTA35R or just stock 9 turbo My vote 35R

Bumper, just wiggle it and hold it tight while doing the bolts. They are already gaped a little, look at all the cars.
I say HTA35R man They are amazing on 2.3 I would also like to see what a FP Red would do on a 2.3 tho because thats what I wanted to try But if you need just a regular 35R I know someone that has one

Originally Posted by DIDYSIS
I already want a 37R or 40R If I get another turbo I am thinking of going big. Even though the 35R should be plenty
haha HTA35R have made well into the 700's WHP Biggest I would go on a street car thats kind of a DD would be a 37R I think there is a HTA 37R too

Originally Posted by DIDYSIS
SATURDAY I WIN, Putting the Evo together after finally getting parts
Dude we where up till like 2:20 last night playing COD how did you wake up so early I was up at 8:20 since my brother work me up

Originally Posted by wesside
Didysis your setup is good man don't go with different turbo hta35r on a 2.3 ftw

Steering column, gauge cluster or gauge pods I vote against the gauge pod
Ya man HYA all the Way +1 on my vote

Yep thats what I have too or in the Center where the Radio goes Not a fan of Pillar pods in Evos anyway

Originally Posted by k20turbo
Yeah I really dont like the pillar pods... guess I will look into the steering column one
I have a Perrin one and I like it







Originally Posted by wesside
I've had egt & boost on my steering column for a long time...I have a oil pressure that I've needed to get out of my dresser drawer for just as long I just don't know where to put it and eventually I'll go with the the 3 gauge cluster above the a/c but I want in cf

For a wideband it would be sick to do the lancer spot (same size as the mr/rs mitsu gauges...40-42mm?)

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...ul-gauges.html
Ya I have Boost and EGT too. I have my Wideban in a different place

Wes that Is a cool mod that guy did to his Stock gauge cluster I would like to do that too if I knew what I was doing
Old Jun 6, 2009 | 01:46 PM
  #25634  
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From: SL,UT
Stereo is sold, btw. And I lose!
Old Jun 6, 2009 | 01:48 PM
  #25635  
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From: South Jordan, UT
Originally Posted by DIDYSIS
45 WHAT!!!!!!!!!!!! Normal for ARP is 80, Well you guys do what you want ill do as I want, thats the nice thing of doing it your self.
I hope you used L19's with that torque setting (they don't stretch) regular ARP head studs stretch. You are supposed to run the stud down hand tight the maybe a quarter turn past, maximum. Then install the washer and lube the nut, run the nut down, and torque to 90ft lbs.



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