2004 ralliart timing belt replacement
Jan 5, 2011, 04:21 AM
#62
this kit , and depending on your waterpump. Most say it looks good when doing the timing belt but for me personally , I'm replacing mine just just be on the safe side. Reasoning behind it being ... 1)The pump is 5 years old, looks can be deceiving it my look good and be working fine but internally there may be bearing about to go bad,etc 2) I'm in a tropical climate and with humidity adn heat it's hell on any cars cooling system 3) it's right there and open to get done with the timing belt, if I don't and it does go bad I'll have to have all done again anyway, so in total it for my piece of mind. 
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sk...%26+Drivetrain
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sk...%26+Drivetrain
Jan 5, 2011, 08:07 AM
#63
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sweet thanks for the information! I saw that someone people said they are replacing the auto tensioner, is that the same thing as the TB tensioner in that kit?
Jan 8, 2011, 06:34 AM
#64
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Just thought i'd jump in here and say...I emailed the mitsubishi dealership here for a quote on some service, one thing being the timing belt. Parts were quoted at 265.27 and the labour was quoted at 3.5 hours for 307.00. So 572.27 in total.
I'm not gonna try and do it myself, but i'm taking my car up to a garage close to me to get a free estimate on some work.
I'm not gonna try and do it myself, but i'm taking my car up to a garage close to me to get a free estimate on some work.
Jan 8, 2011, 12:55 PM
#65
Just thought i'd jump in here and say...I emailed the mitsubishi dealership here for a quote on some service, one thing being the timing belt. Parts were quoted at 265.27 and the labour was quoted at 3.5 hours for 307.00. So 572.27 in total.
I'm not gonna try and do it myself, but i'm taking my car up to a garage close to me to get a free estimate on some work.
I'm not gonna try and do it myself, but i'm taking my car up to a garage close to me to get a free estimate on some work.
Jan 8, 2011, 08:31 PM
#66
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my dealership told me it would be 420 for install and parts, but 200 of that was just parts, is that $80 kit everything the dealer would put on besides the water pump? also is there an auto tensioner [B]and[B] a timing belt tensioner? Or is that the same thing, because that kit doesn't include an auto tensioner? Thanks in advance guys.
Jan 8, 2011, 09:43 PM
#68
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Here is a familiarization pic from my DIY timing belt job. It's one of the easier timing belts to do because it has only one cam.
1. water pump MD979395
2. timing tensioner pulley MN137247
3. timing idler pulley MN137248
4. timing auto tensioner MR984375
5. timing tensioner pivot arm (pushed by auto tensioner and carries tensioner pulley)
6. crank position sensor and plug
7. crank
8. timing belt MR994968
9. oil pump
10. balance shaft
11. balance belt MR984778
12. balance belt tensioner pulley MD352473
Replace the original OEM timing belt and pulleys between 60k and 80k miles.
Do not let an aftermarket timing belt or pulleys go more than 60k miles.
Always replace the water pump. It does not run off the timing belt, but failure has been known to torque it into the path of the timing belt.
Always replace the timing tensioner and idler pulleys.
The auto tensioner may be reused once if it passes inspection.
Always replace the balance belt and tensioner pulley.
1. water pump MD979395
2. timing tensioner pulley MN137247
3. timing idler pulley MN137248
4. timing auto tensioner MR984375
5. timing tensioner pivot arm (pushed by auto tensioner and carries tensioner pulley)
6. crank position sensor and plug
7. crank
8. timing belt MR994968
9. oil pump
10. balance shaft
11. balance belt MR984778
12. balance belt tensioner pulley MD352473
Replace the original OEM timing belt and pulleys between 60k and 80k miles.
Do not let an aftermarket timing belt or pulleys go more than 60k miles.
Always replace the water pump. It does not run off the timing belt, but failure has been known to torque it into the path of the timing belt.
Always replace the timing tensioner and idler pulleys.
The auto tensioner may be reused once if it passes inspection.
Always replace the balance belt and tensioner pulley.
Last edited by samdog; Jan 9, 2011 at 03:27 PM.
Jan 9, 2011, 08:02 AM
#70
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Yea thanks for being so helpful guys! I'm a noob when it comes to this.
So let me clarify to make sure i order all that i need.
1. The ContiTech Timing belt kit which comes with
-Timing belt
-Balance Shaft belt
-Idler
-Timing Belt Tensioner
-Balance Shaft Tensioner
2. The Timing Belt Auto Tensioner
-Part # MR984375
3. Water Pump
-Part # MD979395
Is this list correct? Thanks!
So let me clarify to make sure i order all that i need.
1. The ContiTech Timing belt kit which comes with
-Timing belt
-Balance Shaft belt
-Idler
-Timing Belt Tensioner
-Balance Shaft Tensioner
2. The Timing Belt Auto Tensioner
-Part # MR984375
3. Water Pump
-Part # MD979395
Is this list correct? Thanks!
Jan 9, 2011, 04:08 PM
#71
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Yep, looks like you got it all.
Just a note; I ordered the timing kit from Autozone and the idler pulley was too thick -- it didn't fit under the timing cover. I think it was the kit for a 2.4 L in the Outlander. They double-checked and it was the only kit they had. I had to return it and order OEM.
The OEM idler pulley looks like this and is 35 mm thick. A few more mm will strike the timing cover.
Also, the Haynes Manual #68035 "Mitsubishi Galant, 1994 thru 2003" has a good procedure for the 2.4 L SOHC engine, timing belt. It's not identical to the Ralliart version, but it's close enough with all the important stuff.
Just a note; I ordered the timing kit from Autozone and the idler pulley was too thick -- it didn't fit under the timing cover. I think it was the kit for a 2.4 L in the Outlander. They double-checked and it was the only kit they had. I had to return it and order OEM.
The OEM idler pulley looks like this and is 35 mm thick. A few more mm will strike the timing cover.
Also, the Haynes Manual #68035 "Mitsubishi Galant, 1994 thru 2003" has a good procedure for the 2.4 L SOHC engine, timing belt. It's not identical to the Ralliart version, but it's close enough with all the important stuff.
Jan 9, 2011, 05:30 PM
#72
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This is a Harbor Freight engine support bar for about $50. It's way better than jacking the engine up by the oil pan. Rotate the winged levers for precise control of engine height and no risk of damage to the pan.
