Ya, i think the dealer is right (for a change ) cuz the sound went away after i drove it for a couple of days. Plus, for me it wasnt just my timing belt, it was mostly my serpentine belt

 

could be worse ive been told that some range rovers i think have the timing belt sitting at the back of the motor Mm from the fire wall so yeah that would blow >>alot

 

yeah i forget what it was but a guy was telling me a while back he had to remove engine mounts and rotate the motor a bit to change spark plugs!!

 

Mighta been a caddy with the northstar motor, or any front drivin 8 cylinder for that matter. but i seem to recall that caddys need that done. but dont hold me to that as fact.

For the most part all cars these days, with a few glimmers of hope here and there, are a massive pain in the @$$ to work on. When i was in high school i had a 72 Charger, that was a polr opposite to todays cars. Engine bay so spacious i could get in with it to work on it. Or at the very least sit on the fenders with my legs and feet in the engine bay. Now THAT was a easy car to work on. But i dont see them bringing back cars like that again. You know, 29 feet long 10 feet wide, enough room for you and most of your friends. I suppose I am drifting off topic though, hafta start a new thread called "old guys and their memories"

 

how tight should my balance belt be also the hole you are supposed to set up the oil pump shaft orientation with i can't find, if that is only for the balance shaft that belt didn't break so i just put it back where it was.

also when i turn the oil pump shaft i here a slight almost metal rubbing sound, doesn't sound real bad and its constant. is that normal or just because the pump is dry.

 

no help?

 

hmm...i typed a reply to this at work today...must not have submitted it before closing the window, lol

the balance shaft belt tension is set by the orientation of the tensioner pulley...this is for the rear balance shaft...the hole i believe you're asking about is to set the correct angle of the front balance shaft at TDC in #1 cylinder. That being said, you really need to replace both belts...

the hole to set the front balance shaft is the only bolt on the front of the block on the left side that's not the bolts for the exhaust bracket, as far as i remember...


not sure about the oil pump man...i don't remember mine rubbing...

 

ok so i got that the balance belt is adjusted by the cam type pulley but i don't know how tight to make it.

also on the timing belt tentioner pulley the one that is also on a cam where does it need to be oriented. if i have it in certain positions it hits the water pump. i will look for that hole you are talking aboutin the front. now i'm assuming the front balance shaft is also driving the oilpump because its the same shaft. nowthere is an arrow on that shaft that points to a spot on the front engine cover it looks like so why would that need to be oriented.

also do you or anyone have a diagram of the pulley identifications for when i get my head back on and have to align everything to be in sync.

the noise i'm talking about is on the lower front shaft which is the oil pump shaft and i believe a front balance shaft, it is a very faint sound but is constant almost like a scratching. plus when i spin taht shaft fast i get some faint clicking the the motor which i'm assuming is the shaft or something in the pump making noise.


also do any of you have an idea what my car would be worth it is an 04 ralliart with a RPM turbo kit, fully tuned, 40k mile engine, 75k on car, 17" light weight wheels, system, its in pretty clean shape. i know the car well because i built it, then bought it from my friend who owned it a year or so ago for my wife to drive, now she wants somethng else?

 

if you want the book, pm me

here is how the rear balance shaft belt tensioner should be aligned...


This is how you position the main timing belt tensioner pulley


Timing marks


And this is the infamous screwdriver trick, people tend to forget or not know about this step in the procedure and end up with substantial vibration, and poor performance...

 

do you know the torque specs of the rocker arm shaft bolts?

i never herd back on that manual?

 

i replied to your PM...you never gave me your email address...

i don't know the specs off hand but i seem to remember it being quite high, though be careful, as the fasteners are quite weak, i broke one and had to carefully drill and extract it with a shop vac, cause the head was already assembled...i'll check the manual when i get home, i'm at work right now

 

Just want to say thanks to everyone that posted information in this thread about how to change the timing belt.

I changed mine on Sunday at 98k km. The Stealership wanted $800 to do it. So I bought the Timing Belt from them for $90 and the Balancer belt (Timing belt B) for $50 and it took me ~4.5hr.

If you don't plan on changing the pulls, it's a good idea to clean them out and re-pack the grease because when I took mine apart most of the grease was gone.
I checked my timing belt tensioner and it appeared to still be good, so I returned the $150 part.

Everything was pretty easy, but definitely would help if you had someone to help you check the timing marks and taking off and putting the belts back on.
This was my first time doing the timing belt and I had to say it went quite smoothly.

I also changed the Drive belt at the same time which I bought an aftermarket one for $30. The stealership wanted $105...lol

So for everyone that's thinking of DIY and knows how to read a manual and follow instructions then go for it. There's enough knowledge in this thread to help you complete the task.

 

ok so i have everything together and there was no play in any of the pulleys. however when i rotat the engine clockwise the belt seems to ride on the timing gear from the cam fine but looks like it is maybe trying to work in toward the motor. when i rotate the motor counter clockwise the belt works its way out about halfway off the timing gear. not sure why this is everything looks right. my worry is that the crank position plate has little sharp edges where it meets the crank timing gear, if my belt running in the clockwise position is constantly trying to walk in it will be rubbing agains these sharp points and just destroy this belt again.

has anyone noticed thier belt moving like this when turning the motor over. if anyone has a motor out and can rotate it please do because i'm worried this will put me back to square one having to have the head rebuild again if it breaks.

 

Hey Chase87,

Not sure if you solved the problem yet, but if not then perhaps try setting all the timing marks back to TDC, then take the belt off and re-seating it. Maybe one of the gears is off a tooth.

When I did mine, I rotated it the crank until I saw TDC twice before I pulled the pin out of the tensioner and did not have a problem with the belt sliding sideways on me.

Try that and if you have any more problems feel free to message me.

 

I installed it that way now I did notice that some of the timing marks didn't seem to line up perfectly but there was nothing that could be done because the belt was tight and it would get worse going one way or the other.

Now i did talk to road race engineering and they had me check my new idler pulleys and I did and there was some play in the bearings so they told me to go get the parts from the dealer. I had purchase the cognitech stuff from one of the sites linked in the thread. Either way I returned them and got some from the dealer. Ouch.

Still havent put them back together but was looking at the new bearings and one of them has some play in it. I guess I will just install it again and see what I get. I think I may file some of those sharp points on the crank trigger play down so that they won't rub if the belt was to touch it.

This car is driving me crazy. Anyone want to buy it.