2004 ralliart timing belt replacement
okay, I appreciate all of your help CrAnSwIcK. I am just having the worst of luck with this. I purchased the timing belt and the water pump, but can't seem to find anyone to install it without ripping me off. I am going to try again on Monday.I may not need the link for the tensioner anymore. I've called multiple places and heard different things at each place. "Oh you need or should get this too..." seriously, that annoys me. I'm ready to pay in cash for this job and no one can seem to complete this for me.
Here is a familiarization pic from my DIY timing belt job. It's one of the easier timing belts to do because it has only one cam.
1. water pump MD979395
2. timing tensioner pulley MN137247
3. timing idler pulley MN137248
4. timing auto tensioner MR984375
5. timing tensioner pivot arm (pushed by auto tensioner and carries tensioner pulley)
6. crank position sensor and plug
7. crank
8. timing belt MR994968
9. oil pump
10. balance shaft
11. balance belt MR984778
12. balance belt tensioner pulley MD352473
Replace the original OEM timing belt and pulleys between 60k and 80k miles.
Do not let an aftermarket timing belt or pulleys go more than 60k miles.
Always replace the water pump. It does not run off the timing belt, but failure has been known to torque it into the path of the timing belt.
Always replace the timing tensioner and idler pulleys.
The auto tensioner may be reused once if it passes inspection.
Always replace the balance belt and tensioner pulley.
1. water pump MD979395
2. timing tensioner pulley MN137247
3. timing idler pulley MN137248
4. timing auto tensioner MR984375
5. timing tensioner pivot arm (pushed by auto tensioner and carries tensioner pulley)
6. crank position sensor and plug
7. crank
8. timing belt MR994968
9. oil pump
10. balance shaft
11. balance belt MR984778
12. balance belt tensioner pulley MD352473
Replace the original OEM timing belt and pulleys between 60k and 80k miles.
Do not let an aftermarket timing belt or pulleys go more than 60k miles.
Always replace the water pump. It does not run off the timing belt, but failure has been known to torque it into the path of the timing belt.
Always replace the timing tensioner and idler pulleys.
The auto tensioner may be reused once if it passes inspection.
Always replace the balance belt and tensioner pulley.
Is this all OEM part numbers and did you replace all of the listed parts when you did yours? And was it diffucult i currently have 114k and need to get this dona ASAP
Ryan
to anyone interested her is a pretty good video i found for a timing belt change on the 2.4l motor and im pretty sure its the same mivec one in our ralliarts
Replace timing belt on a Mitsubishi Eclipse 2.4L 2006
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FVlwJpyH-uA
Replace timing belt on a Mitsubishi Eclipse 2.4L 2006
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FVlwJpyH-uA
Newbie
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
From: Brunswick, MD
So I just replaced my timing belt and balance belt and now when I go above 3k rpm my motor gets way louder, feels like there is less power and vibrates (sounds like there is a pulley loose or something). I pulled everything back off and nothing looks abnormal.. Everything is tight and secure. Does anyone know how tight the timing belt/ balance belts should be? The old balance belt was fairly loose.. Not like falling off loose but it had some slack, I adjusted the tensioner pulley so that the new belt is nice and tight.
The new timing belt was extremely tight even before installing the tensioner.. I was barely able to push it onto the cam gear. Does anyone have any input?
Thanks.
The new timing belt was extremely tight even before installing the tensioner.. I was barely able to push it onto the cam gear. Does anyone have any input?
Thanks.
make sure all the timing marks line up, when they do check if the front balance shaft is not out of phase...see below
also, make sure the rear balance shaft is a half notch before it's timing mark...
The car runs though, so that's good and means you're probably not too bad...check the front balance shaft like in the picture and let me know
also, make sure the rear balance shaft is a half notch before it's timing mark...
The car runs though, so that's good and means you're probably not too bad...check the front balance shaft like in the picture and let me know
hey man few questions for you, im trying to avoid a 400$ OEM water pump think GMB is any good or suggestions of aftermarket ones? also belts pulleys i see alot of conti and muzimo belts as well as ntm bearings any suggestions?
Thanks bud
Thanks bud
Part number is MD979395
that's the old part number, it's been superceded by 1300A066, but mitsubishiparts.net auto corrects superceded part numbers...
yeah it's less than $200...your price is what a mitsu dealer in canada would charge...grab your ankles and bite on a rope if you're buying parts from them...
an aftermarket pump would probably work, but it is going to cost about as much as OEM from mitsubishiparts.net. And as far as longetivity, i would go OEM given the pain in the *** it would be to change it, when you're not due for a timing belt servive...
OFF TOPIC!
I just got all the parts i need to do a timing belt service on my ES, the 4G94 so far has been MUCH cheaper to maintain
yeah it's less than $200...your price is what a mitsu dealer in canada would charge...grab your ankles and bite on a rope if you're buying parts from them...
an aftermarket pump would probably work, but it is going to cost about as much as OEM from mitsubishiparts.net. And as far as longetivity, i would go OEM given the pain in the *** it would be to change it, when you're not due for a timing belt servive...
OFF TOPIC!
I just got all the parts i need to do a timing belt service on my ES, the 4G94 so far has been MUCH cheaper to maintain
Last edited by CrAnSwIcK; Nov 18, 2011 at 06:08 PM.
Newbie
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
From: Brunswick, MD
Do you have any guidance as to where this plug is? I'm assuming it is under the timing cover? Also there are two balance shafts?? I'm only seeing one in the top left. Also, every time I've pulled th timing cover off (this is the fifth time) the oil pump sprocket hasn't been in line with it's timing mark when I find tdc but everything else does. Is this normal?
make sure all the timing marks line up, when they do check if the front balance shaft is not out of phase...see below
also, make sure the rear balance shaft is a half notch before it's timing mark...
The car runs though, so that's good and means you're probably not too bad...check the front balance shaft like in the picture and let me know
also, make sure the rear balance shaft is a half notch before it's timing mark...
The car runs though, so that's good and means you're probably not too bad...check the front balance shaft like in the picture and let me know
^^^
That plug is actually more close to being under the header towards the front of the motor.
And about the oil pump sprocket being off, I was clueless as to why it was off too when my auto tensioner was replaced recently, but it was lined up properly before I ever cranked the motor.
That plug is actually more close to being under the header towards the front of the motor.
And about the oil pump sprocket being off, I was clueless as to why it was off too when my auto tensioner was replaced recently, but it was lined up properly before I ever cranked the motor.
if it was all lined up when you put it on, it should line up eventually...trying turning the motor by hand 5 or 6 times or until they all line up. once they are all lined up, that when you pull the bolt out and stick the screwdriver in, it should go in all they way if it's a normal size screwdriver. If it doesn't, the front balance shaft is out of phase 180 degrees and needs to be timed over again...the bolt is on the front lower portion of the block directly in line with the oil pump sprocket, and the oil pump sprocket drives the front balance shaft...hope that clears things up 