CrAnSwIcK

iTrader: (5)

go to a DOT 4...if tracking, spirited back road cruising, (or breaking the speed limit), you would want maybe a racing DOT 4.

rzrxn

iTrader: (1)

i dont do any of the above but i still use DOT4 just because thats what i was recommended when i first joined EvoM.
my car has been good to me and i really want to return the favour but im just so tight with my finances right now.
especially as im planning to buy some courses this coming May.

Ralliart367

Instead of making a new post ima just reply on this one and hope the correct people find it
I bled the clutch, there wasn't much air in it but there was a little it didn't make much a difference, so I tried to adjust the pedal the way jacks transmission shows to, and that didn't fix the problem either. When I push the fork arm into the slave more then usual and let it push out the pin doesn't follow the arm fast at all, it takes about 2 minutes for it to fully get in and get pressure on the fork arm again which seems strange because my dads 98 mirage follows even when you push it towards the slave more then its used to.
So it seems now I'm starting to get a synchro grind 1st to 2nd, I have amsoil in the transmission and its the right stuff, I might change it again just to see if it helps. I had a Megan racing short shifter in it but I decided just to swap back to the stock one just in case that was it. Even though I had the problem before it. Swapped them and when I was putting the original shifter in I noticed something in the linkage to the left of the bigger bolt fell out and it was soft and black. It put a lot of slack into the shifter when in gear it could wiggle around a good bit more. It shifted same as before though and I'm still getting synchro grind 1st to 2nd. I'm looking into a rebuild at this point and just sending it off to Shepard or something and having everything replaced. If anyone has any tips or knows anything that I can try to help or anywhere better to rebuild it, or knows the problem and think they can help please chime in. I feel as though I'm killing my transmission every time I drive it.
When sitting still all gears shift smooth as butter, but when moving 1st-2nd will always feel a spinning and sometimes a grind even when you try and shift it to the cars liking, 2nd to 3rd is always butter and 3rd to forth you feel a little resistance but not a grind its more in the linkage I believe and 4th to 5th is always perfect.


Edit: also used dot 4 fluid and bleed the brakes then clutch. All new fluids. Old fluid was pitch black never seen fluid so bad before

Ralliart367

The part in the linkage I'm referring to is the first picture on this post
It has a circle around it
My spring sits right unlike his but I guess the black thing that fell out was a silencer for the metal on the bolt or a bushing on the linkage, could that be the culprit? I doubt it myself but just wondering if I'm fine without that
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/la...lp-w-pics.html

RallyartRob

iTrader: (2)

were you having problems before amsoil?? and if so did it get worse after you put amsoil in?? the delay in the slave coming back out is ok i noticed that when i bleed my system as well, as for still have bad feeling i bet you have the same problem i did, lots of built up dirt in the system went into the master and eventually damaged teh piston so brake fluid would blow buy, get a new master off rockauto first either the Ra or the evo8 will fit, the evo8 has no access door or bleeder but u wont need them, also it will change you clutch grab point to really low to the floor but its nice when u get use to it i did it last year and love it. So i suggest get the master and oem trans oil and then see if your still having problems.

Ralliart367

the amsoil didnt hurt it or help it. just checked it a couple minutes ago to make sure it wasnt black or brown or sliver by taking the fill bolt off and dipping a cue tip down in it and it was at the correct level and still looked the orignal color.

and also for the master cylinder mine feels like it operates correctly unless the pin in the slave is supposed to follow the fork arm better once pushed in farther then normal, its not a floppy pedal it just feels light compared to when i got the car it was super hard the mechanic said when he changed the clutch the old ones "fingers" were stiff causing it to feel harder then supposed to, but im getting full movement out the slave fully disengaugeing and engaging.

i had someone else drive my car last night to get another opinon and they said it felt like it was in the linkage and not the gears themself, its not a grinding really but you can feel spinning and it feels as though it should grind but it doesnt. to me it feels like the synchro is spining when im trying to get it into gear which i dont think is supposed to be the case, but once i get it past a certain point it feels good again.

xmaster19

iTrader: (1)

Pushing the slave piston in with your hand seems to push air inside the system, JTCB had the same problem and had to re-bleed the thing. You can also try moving the boot around to see if any fluid is found there, which could point out a failed slave.

rzrxn

iTrader: (1)

hi all! long time no talk! haven't been on for a while as i've been busy with work and trying to register for school. finally got some time and just thought i would chime in on this.

^^^THAT^^^

i was inspecting my slave cylinder yesterday and i squeezed the crap out of the boot that surrounds the piston and guess what i found...FLUID! i let it drip on some white paper and it's BLACK in colour. i was like "DAAAYUM!"

so i think i'll be ordering a new clutch slave from ROCKAUTO and while i'm at it, i'll grab a few more parts that i might need.

hopefully when i replace the slave (w/some help from Crans) i can put together a detailed HOW-TO because i know i LOOOVE reading "dem guides"

sorry for thread-hack but i've been seeing so much transmission failures on RAs here in the forums that it's getting crazy

see you guys later!

RallyartRob

iTrader: (2)

i dont think its so much failures as dirt getting into the clutch system. My engine bay is pretty clean and i noticed alot of sand and things built up around the master, i also noticed when you remove the resevoir cap that the inside was kind of dirty maybe letting dirt into the system.

Your in scarbs right?? let me know if crans isnt available i may be able to give you a hand as im in that area regularly

rzrxn

iTrader: (1)

yeah i'm a scarboroughnian and DAT HELP would be amazing! crans just pm'd me a parts list for my trans rebuild and my subtotal is...*drum roll* $428.54 DAMN!

when you're down here, just give me a call and we can meet up for sure

thanks again for the offer bro! looking forward to some RA overhauls in the future! plus you gotta show me your RA too! i love checking out other RAs

take care man! cheers

CrAnSwIcK

iTrader: (5)

that's all new bearings and seals, plus 2nd gear synchro...the reason the cost is so high is that a new 2nd gear is $138. and i threw the synchro sleeve in there as well because the way your second gear is grinding it's likely the sleeve may have some damage as well. really it's not too bad, for a transmission overhaul...i would just hate to skip on the second gear, and then realise we need it and have to take the transmission out twice.

rzrxn

iTrader: (1)

that's exactly what i was thinking too! i remember you warned me about that already because we wouldn't want to crack it open and have to wait for a part that we need but didn't order. i'm also happy with the price and it's close to the estimate that you gave me a while back. that's way better than $2000+ at a random trans shop. plus i get to learn everything as it will be a DIY project. oh man i'm getting so excited about this. TRAMP (my RA's name--named by my girlfriend lol) has been needing this overhaul for a while now. everything else about her is perfect in my eyes. well my stereo is still out but it's all good for now.

summer is coming and im hoping everything goes smoothly before winter comes back to haunt us lol.

thanks so much again for all the help!

you guys are amazing

xmaster19

iTrader: (1)

The black grime is the brake fluid eating the seal. It does the same on the CMC.

The slave doesn't have to be changed, only the piston inside. If you are a junkyard kind of guy, 92-96 2.0L FS-DE Mazda Mx6 have a better designed piston. Been using it for about a year without any problems, whatsoever. I'm pretty sure I used the RA rod but still get the Mx6 one with it, just in case. The difference in design doesn't do anything, the rod is still placed at the same spot. I used a Mazda piston because I used to have tons of 15+ years old Mazdas and never had to change any, when the RA one fails after less than 10 years. Still happy with my choice. Also cost about 5$.

The slave is basically a metal cylinder with a few holes in it. Unless your break something in it while swapping the piston, you don't have to change the whole thing.

Details can be found here :

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/04...intensive.html

I only cleaned mine with a bit of brake cleaner and some blue towels, then carefully put the new piston back in.

Hope this helps.