The Ultimate 2009 Ralliart Thread mega merge
people will always want top of the line stuff, since the X has brembos, more hp, ayc, sawc, recaro stock, different susp. components, stiffer chassis, and a wider body than the RA
Yeah, thats different, sti's have an extra gear to offer and for some time had an extra .5 of displacement too, also a hoel new drivetrain setup. This thing I'd conider a base for building something out of, once this comes out, move over evo X.
Exactly. I think most people who will buy Ralliarts would PREFER an Evo if cash were no object. The Ralliart is just going to help Mitsubishi retain the customers who want an Evo but can't or won't spend the money for one. Your Ralliart customers are likely to be the people who would have wound up in an MS3, SRT-4 or WRX a year or two ago. They may lose a few sales to people who bought the Evo because Mitsubishi didn't offer a step-down model with a turbo and AWD, but in the long run, the Ralliart should enhance Mitsubishi's bottom line.
Last edited by hibby; Jan 27, 2008 at 11:30 AM.
I was wondering how you guys think the new RA will behave with the SST? Do you think we might see this transmission shift even faster than the SST in the evo because of it having less power to hurt things? Just a thought.
I don't expect that to be the case. (My $0.02)
i'm most likely going to trade in my '08 lancer gts when the new RA comes out... i'm wondering if anyone can give me an estimate on how much my trade in will be worth since kbb doesn't show '08s yet....
I got the pretty much all the options except for the FAST key, and it'll have prolly around 20,000 miles. can anybody give me just a rough estimate....
I know its kinda OT, but it sort of pertains to the subject
I got the pretty much all the options except for the FAST key, and it'll have prolly around 20,000 miles. can anybody give me just a rough estimate....
I know its kinda OT, but it sort of pertains to the subject
Exactly. I think most people who will buy Ralliarts would PREFER an Evo if cash were no object. The Ralliart is just going to help Mitsubishi retain the customers who want an Evo but can't or won't spend the money for one. Your Ralliart customers are likely to be the people who would have wound up in an MS3, SRT-4 or WRX a year or two ago. They may lose a few sales to people who bought the Evo because Mitsubishi didn't offer a step-down model with a turbo and AWD, but in the long run, the Ralliart should enhance Mitsubishi's bottom line.
I personaly would:
- not buy an evo (not that I couldn't)
- not buy and SST Ralliart (if they would offer a 5 or 6 MT deal is done!)
- most likely end up with a MS3
i'm most likely going to trade in my '08 lancer gts when the new RA comes out... i'm wondering if anyone can give me an estimate on how much my trade in will be worth since kbb doesn't show '08s yet....
I got the pretty much all the options except for the FAST key, and it'll have prolly around 20,000 miles. can anybody give me just a rough estimate....
I know its kinda OT, but it sort of pertains to the subject
I got the pretty much all the options except for the FAST key, and it'll have prolly around 20,000 miles. can anybody give me just a rough estimate....
I know its kinda OT, but it sort of pertains to the subject
Working at a dealership, I can tell you KBB trade-in isn't much of a factor when you try to get rid of the car. We use something entirely different, and I'm told most other dealerships do too.
So how exactly do dealerships measure the value?
I used to sell cars and KBB actually is a very good indicator for the following reasons:
1. KBB and NADA pull average pricing from these auction databasis and update it accordingly.
2. Most used car managers readily use KBB by itself (when lazy) although incorrectly. For example, KBB has an option to select the condition of your vehicle. Let's say you pick "Fair" (KBB states to use this condition for a vehicle in good working order but may need some work on body or new tires and accounts for these conditions in its final assessment of your vehicle's value). What happens is the used car manager will also pick fair but subtracts from this value for the cost of work to recondition which KBB as stated already accounts for this cost. They will also say that it'll cost them $500 - $800 to replace let's say tires when it'll cost them much less to do.
My suggestion is to do your research, KBB, NADA, edmunds, etc. Look at where they hit your car at. Use that information as a basis to come up with an honest value that you feel your car is worth and stick to your guns with it. Always go towards the end of the month too, salesmen and managers are more willing to get the sale to meet their goals for the month.
The other sources used typically are NADA. They will also compare it to similar vehicles at auctions (basically what they can buy your car for from a different source.
I used to sell cars and KBB actually is a very good indicator for the following reasons:
1. KBB and NADA pull average pricing from these auction databasis and update it accordingly.
2. Most used car managers readily use KBB by itself (when lazy) although incorrectly. For example, KBB has an option to select the condition of your vehicle. Let's say you pick "Fair" (KBB states to use this condition for a vehicle in good working order but may need some work on body or new tires and accounts for these conditions in its final assessment of your vehicle's value). What happens is the used car manager will also pick fair but subtracts from this value for the cost of work to recondition which KBB as stated already accounts for this cost. They will also say that it'll cost them $500 - $800 to replace let's say tires when it'll cost them much less to do.
My suggestion is to do your research, KBB, NADA, edmunds, etc. Look at where they hit your car at. Use that information as a basis to come up with an honest value that you feel your car is worth and stick to your guns with it. Always go towards the end of the month too, salesmen and managers are more willing to get the sale to meet their goals for the month.
I used to sell cars and KBB actually is a very good indicator for the following reasons:
1. KBB and NADA pull average pricing from these auction databasis and update it accordingly.
2. Most used car managers readily use KBB by itself (when lazy) although incorrectly. For example, KBB has an option to select the condition of your vehicle. Let's say you pick "Fair" (KBB states to use this condition for a vehicle in good working order but may need some work on body or new tires and accounts for these conditions in its final assessment of your vehicle's value). What happens is the used car manager will also pick fair but subtracts from this value for the cost of work to recondition which KBB as stated already accounts for this cost. They will also say that it'll cost them $500 - $800 to replace let's say tires when it'll cost them much less to do.
My suggestion is to do your research, KBB, NADA, edmunds, etc. Look at where they hit your car at. Use that information as a basis to come up with an honest value that you feel your car is worth and stick to your guns with it. Always go towards the end of the month too, salesmen and managers are more willing to get the sale to meet their goals for the month.







