FPR will give you an accurate reading, but that's not a great place to tap because any boost leaks in your line to your gauge could reduce fuel pressure and lean things out. Also, you really really don't want that line to be strained or bent funny such that it pops off the manifold. That would cause an immediate and sudden loss of fuel pressure. You can tap your boost gauge off the BOV line.

 

yeah i realize that, thats one reason y i want to switch it around. i do realize that i can tap off my bov vacume line but i dont like how i would have to run hose around to the oposite side of my engine bay. thats y i was wondering if anyone knew where i could get a direct reading off my manifold.

edit. i found where to tap off from. i went out to my car and looked. thanks guys.

 

The FPR is the absolute worste place to tap anything into!! Do not do that. If the boost gauge or any of the extra lines you use develop a leak you could very well blow your engine.

There are atleast 2 other ports on the intake to tap into. The BOV line is the easiest.

David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com

 

yeah im just realizing that now. all the installs i have ever seen done here in stickys and by other tuners themselves have used that spot. i will be changing it if not tonight this weekend. someone should address that on the stickys about taping into the FPR's. thanks. any coments about the boost creep problems i have been having.

 

Correct me if i'm wrong, but is that not what Mitsu uses as the source for their boost gauge?

 

Other shops, tuners, Mitsubishi whoever is going it, it's the wrong place and the most dangerous spot you could tap into. WE do NOT ever use that port or line. As a matter of fact you would be more likely to see us eliminate the FPR selonoid on a car and run a hose directly from the intake to the FPR and then use some type of clamp on each end of the hose. Zip ties actually work really well, as hokey as that might seem.

Boost creep. I don't think it is creep that you are having. I think it is a matter of either the actuator being too much for the boost you are trying to hit OR the actuator not being tight enough to immediately hit the boost you are trying to run.

I can modify an EVO8 actuator to work on the EVO9 turbo. For those of you that would like to have a stock actuator to put on the car instead of the high boost actuator you can send yours in and for $25 I will modify it and send it back. Shipping included. Call first and get an RA# before sending it in.

David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com

 

Good news is...........for me anyway. I was on the dyno with my RS again. I was looking at the logs and was noticing that the intake air temps were "broken". I got out of the car and checked the sensor and it was apparently fine. Weird. Got back in and looked at the logs again and then saw that the temps were in fact moving, just not during a run. This was odd as I remembered the air temps increasing in a 3rd gear pull with the 20g on the car at high boost. The pulls I was doing the boost was hitting 28 psi on and the air temps would start at 50 degrees and end at 50 degrees. NO change at all. I went back and looked at some old logs and found temps increases from before. I then pulled the inlet off the turbo to see what exactly I had on the car, found it is the current 20g-9-5 bladed wheel. Interesting. Interesting enough in fact that I put the normal Mitsubishi style 20G wheel'd turbo back on the car. Guess what, AIT's went back up. They climbed every pull by 4-5 degrees on a single 3rd gear run. HP stayed about the same as before, spool up was about the same etc. The turbos are close but the IAT's are pretty amazing. It shows how much more efficient the 20g-9-5 wheel is.

I have the 20g-9-5 back on the car again and have sent the other turbo to FP to have the wheel upgraded to the 5 bladed wheel.

With this bit of information I think come summer time and longer, hotter pulls that the difference in air temps between these two wheels is going to become very important.

I will upgrade anyone with our 20g-9 6 bladed wheel to our 5 bladed wheel for absolutely free. I'll even cover the shipping. There are only 7 of you out there. If you'd like to take me up on the offer just call and we'll have you drop ship the turbo and get it taken care of for you.

David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com

 

so ur saying that the 20g-9-5 is running cooler than the 20g-9-6? thats is sweet. FP did a great job with this turbo, so far no complaints. very pleased, just need to get that damn bolt out and get that test pipe on and see if it makes a big difference or not. i think i will stay with the high boost actuator for when i run race gas. thanks again

 

Yes, the 5 bladed FP wheel is making less heat than the Mitsubishi style 6 bladed 20G wheel that TC is selling.

David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com

 

I gave you a PM about this Dave. Hopefully we can work something out before I put my evo back together

 

I'll check my PM's. Did you get your intercooler back?

David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com

 

Yeah man.. fits like a glove. I think I sent you a PM on that too but I could be doing something wrong

 

Dave,

Pm me the info i need to get this done i haven't been on the boards active for a few weeks. I am one of the seven with a 6 blade 20g-9 turbo.

 

question about that other 20g thread..... u say ur RS is making 410whp while utilizing your version of the TD05H 20G?

is that the 20g-9-5 turbo u are talking about, or did i miss something?

 

Whats your take on the advantages of the EVO 9 compressor housing (beyond alleviating surge with the previous 6 blade wheel) on pump gas applications with this turbo.

I'm presently considering upgrading my current WR-8 with the IX housing and was interested to see if the positive pump gas results seen with the 20g-9 6 blade wheel were replicated with the new 5 blade 20g-9s. Early on, the 20g 6 blade wheel was generally presented to be more effective at lower boost levels than the WR 5 blade wheel.


Back when the WR-8 was released the main argument against it was that backpressure on the exhaust side of the turbo negated the gains in efficiency on the Compressor side. Would it be safe to say that the evo 8 compressor cover itself was an equal restriction early on with this wheel?
Also, in matching a cam setup with this turbo in a pump gas application would you recommend a cam with more lift or more duration. i.e. Tomei 260 procams over HKS 272s.

Any input would be appreciated.