Nice numbers!

So are headers and an O2 housing worthwhile mods? My IX was about 253hp on a DynoDynamics dyno after a tune with a buschur turbo back and 100 octane. How does it affect the power band? Is it an overall improvement or does it sacrifice the low end for the high end?

I'd like to have Jake tune my car this year if I'm in the area.

 

they both aid in spool slightly, and help extend the powerband up top.

helping the car breathe better fattens the entire powerband.

dave's tune and parts made for a very very fast and potent car.

cb

 

So I ran the WDCR Test n' Tune today with the Evo on my bone stock suspension and stock tires and wheels. Came in 3rd place just a bit over a second out of first. The power was frikkin' H-U-G-E. We couldn't stop smiling after running the car today. Very, very, very fast car. Many people told me that the only cars that were faster coming out of the turns were the Z06's and the ASP cars that ran today. Many PROPS to my tuning sponsor CBRD. If you want a very powerful and very safe tune give my brotha Chad Block a call.

I think once we get the KW suspension on from GT WORX and get used to driving with so much HP the car will definately be a contendor for any events in the Mid-Atlantic area and NE Division. I'm satisfied with the power development so far.

 

Dave Mac, Congrats on your time and your car is definitely fast. Mike N. is talking about getting an Evo just to keep up with you!

I have a question: My RE-01 was completely torched after yesterdays Autox school and today's run. I am running 17x8 245/40/17 with -2.0 front and -1.0 rear camber. Will it be helpful if I go to 17x9 with the same tire setup? Is 18x8.5 legal is STU and could that be better? Thanks in advance.

I think your car got the M3/STI guys concerned...

 

I'd recommend that you go with the 17x9's. The reason is you want as much tire on the ground as possible. The 9" wheels will push more of the outer edge down and give you a better contact patch to work with. The 18's will have more rotational mass since there is more metal farther away from the center of the hub and will slow accelleration and braking response slightly. You'll need a little more negative camber too, maybe another .5 up front.

 

well done Dave,

can't wait to see those coilovers and bits go on!!!

guys I would recommend this..

a tire pyrometer.... get one, you cant beat it...

cb

 

I'll add a prop to Chad's statement about the pyro. It is the BEST tool to determine how much negative camber that you need. Basically you take temps across the contact patch from outside about 1" in, center and inner edge about 1" in. This will tell you where your tire is hottest. If the outside edge is hottest then you definately need more negative camber. For autocrossing you want the inside edge about 5-10deg hotter than the outside and center. The idea is that by making the temp more even across the tire's contact patch you are using ALL of the tire's available grip. It will also help you determine tire inflation pressures as well. For example, if the center of your tire is hottest you have too much air in your tires, if the center is too low then you don't have enough. These are just some very basic temperature variations to look at. Talk to your local tire/tuning guru to get the best information about your car.

 

"5-10 degrees hotter", why?

 

I concur with the question, when I see 5-10 degrees hotter that tells me one of two things, either you're turning in too quickly and overheating the inside edge or you're running too much negative camber.

 

I've just found that that seems to work well. Think about it this way, it is the part of the tire that is in contact with the ground MOST of the time. The outside edge is only in contact during high grip turning like transitions and sweepers. The center is usually in full contact but is not worked as much as the inner edge simply due to physics. That said, when the tire is being fully used in a turn the temperature will be even actoss the contact patch since tire temperatures vary during a run. When the car is running straight the inside will have the greatest contact pressure and will retain more heat. That is the idea behind the temperature ideas that I posted.

I also stated at the end of my message to consult your local tire guru as well.

 

actually dave is correct....

if you are running the proper amount of camber you will always see a tiny bit more heat on the inside edge because of the tire rolling when it is unladen not being in a corner....

the only way to truly check the temps is to beat the living crap out of it, and test as soon as possible. The tricky part is, if you are setting up for the most "time affecting" portion of a circuit, and it's on the farthest side of the track from the pits, you tend to lose the temps generated on that portion... which is where your temps may not look "even" accross the tread surface, but it may be working effectively in that section.

we used the temp probes that you stick into the tread on the alms cars, as they gave more consistent readings... but they take a little more work to use...

i did lots of tire development/testing for goodyear, dunlop, avon, and a few others... and learned many things...

cb

 

I've also noticed with rear tire temps since autox involves lots of transitions and a "bit" of sliding (maybe more like exagerated yaw) the temp patterns are odd. I have yet to see a traditional hotter inside to cooler outside. I am seeing alot of hotter outside. Problem is in tuning for rotation and fast transitions adding too much camber hurts, and if you want camber then you're forced to run more spring/shock/bar/toe which can be detrimental to a consistently fast car.

 

kekek-

I was primairly referencing the front tires. The rear heat will vary based upon your setup. Some people run much less negative camber so they will show higher outside rear temps and still have a very fast car. I don't suspect that the Evo needs much more than -1 to -1.5 camber in the rear but that may change once I actually get the coilovers on my car and start testing.

 

Dave,
I understand. I was just pointing that out. Another friend of mine made the same observation about rear temps, even though he has a very fast SM Civic. For the fronts the traditional 5-15 hotter inside most def applies.

Another little tidbit. Individual tire temps (micro) are great for tire pressure/camber/toe. Temp averaging however will tell you what the entire chassis (macro) is doing. Front/Rear, Left/Right, Diagonals all give the bigger picture and can be helpful in choosing spring rates. Figuring out what all the numbers mean is the tricky part.

<--- Still trying to make heads or tails of the tricky part. So many variables your head spins.

 

I agree with Dave Mack and CRBD that the temp should be a couple more degrees hotter from Inside/middle/outside because not only because of the neg camber that causes the inside to consitently see higher loads but also because the outer edge gets to see more air(from the side) and cools down better than the inside . The only thing I would add is that autocross r-compound seems to build heat from outside/in due to the amount of time spent cornering as opposed to road race tires that gets their heat from inside out (friction caused by load of rotating tires) and my point is that measuring temp on the tires is better accomplished (for autocross) using laser reading that reads outside temp then a probe that goes inside of the tire. Again as stated by the other guys you ned to beat the living out of the tire and take the reading as soon as possible because fast cooling autocross tires will negate your effort if not done in matters of seconds.