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4G64 Long Rod 2.2L Build

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Old May 27, 2009 | 04:45 PM
  #76  
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very nice build. I wish I had the knowledge, *****, and money to do this.
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Old May 27, 2009 | 05:07 PM
  #77  
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Originally Posted by Mark S
Looking at the pictures of the crank you have kept the standard style oil drillings and not the straight shot oil feed to the main bearings,
Why have you done this as it will restrict the oil flow to the main bearings at high rpm unlike the straight shot.

Mark
sorry for not getting back to you regarding your question i miss it..

The reason why i don't use straight shot oiling is do to centrifical force and oiling inconsistancies in the rod bearings when straight shot drilling is used on the mains . For years we have had this issue with EJ crankshafts spinning rod bearings do to there straight shot oiling..
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Old May 27, 2009 | 06:09 PM
  #78  
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Originally Posted by Import Junky
very nice build. I wish I had the knowledge, *****, and money to do this.
I guess I have the *****, not sure about the rest though.
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Old May 28, 2009 | 01:47 PM
  #79  
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Originally Posted by GregGSC
sorry for not getting back to you regarding your question i miss it..

The reason why i don't use straight shot oiling is do to centrifical force and oiling inconsistancies in the rod bearings when straight shot drilling is used on the mains . For years we have had this issue with EJ crankshafts spinning rod bearings do to there straight shot oiling..
Mark do you use straight shot oiling on your 2.2 cranks? GregGSC, Mark has been doing 2.2 custom stroker kits for a long time now with great success. Just an FYI on his background.
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Old May 30, 2009 | 04:40 PM
  #80  
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The motor is almost buttoned up. I'm just waiting for the tensioner pulley and a degree wheel so that I can time the cams. After that, it will be ready to go back in the car. I bought all stainless hardware from the local hardware store. $20 well spent IMHO.
Attached Thumbnails 4G64 Long Rod 2.2L Build-100_1601.jpg   4G64 Long Rod 2.2L Build-100_1602.jpg  
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Old May 31, 2009 | 09:28 AM
  #81  
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Originally Posted by dsevo
The motor is almost buttoned up. I'm just waiting for the tensioner pulley and a degree wheel so that I can time the cams. After that, it will be ready to go back in the car. I bought all stainless hardware from the local hardware store. $20 well spent IMHO.
If yuo bought a degree wheel set you will most likely need a dial guage tip extension and also will need to fab up a bracket which bolts on to the head and creates a base for the magnetic base.
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Old May 31, 2009 | 09:46 AM
  #82  
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Originally Posted by crcain
If yuo bought a degree wheel set you will most likely need a dial guage tip extension and also will need to fab up a bracket which bolts on to the head and creates a base for the magnetic base.
Yeah, that won't be a problem. Thanks.
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Old Jun 4, 2009 | 08:05 AM
  #83  
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I received my Spec Super Twin yesterday, and its even more beautiful in person, lol. I wish it wasn't hidden and I could look at it all the time. Anyways, Adam from MAP is the shiz and has been taking really good care of me. FP is lagging on the turbo hot sides, so he is having them send the turbo to me and he found a hot side somewhere else and is having it coated for me so I get everything faster. Now that is customer service!
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Old Jun 4, 2009 | 08:28 AM
  #84  
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Originally Posted by dsevo
I have been busy and forgot to update this. I got my block back from the machine shop and am putting it together. I'm a little concerned about the crank thrust because I have .007-.008 in. of thrust. The Mitsu manual says .009 in. is the installation limit, but I would think being lower would be better. Anyone have any experience with this?
Did you ever get an answer or clarification on this?
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Old Jun 4, 2009 | 04:26 PM
  #85  
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From: Kailua, HI
Originally Posted by GPTourer
Did you ever get an answer or clarification on this?
I spoke with a few people, and they all told me the crank thrust is within spec and not to worry about it, so thats what I'm doing.


Originally Posted by thientran
what type of piston and crank are those
I am using an Eagle 94mm crank and custom Wiseco pistons.


I also degreed the cams today, and they were pretty far out. I wasn't all that surprised because I had read that Revolver didn't have very good QC. Anyways I ended up setting the cam gears at -12,+1 which makes them straight up. When I ran them before I just ran them, which probably explains why I only had 5 in/hg of vacuum at idle. They had way too much overlap that way.

Last edited by dsevo; Jun 4, 2009 at 04:33 PM.
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Old Jun 4, 2009 | 04:46 PM
  #86  
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Here's a few pictures of the progress. I had to paint the trany mount because my battery f'd up a while ago and the acid burt the paint off of it. I didn't want any bare metal, so I just masked it off and painted it black.

I also dropped the manifold off to get coated, and it should be ready tomorrow or Monday.

Lastly I pulled the front bumper, stock intercooler and intercooler sprayer. Btw, the sprayer is WAY too heavy for what it is and where its located. I will be running a duct from the bumper to where the air filter is.

Oh, and 1 car apartment garage for FTW, lol.
Attached Thumbnails 4G64 Long Rod 2.2L Build-100_1603.jpg   4G64 Long Rod 2.2L Build-100_1604.jpg   4G64 Long Rod 2.2L Build-100_1605.jpg  
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Old Jun 4, 2009 | 06:19 PM
  #87  
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Lookin' good. Are you running Revolvers?
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Old Jun 4, 2009 | 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by crcain
Lookin' good. Are you running Revolvers?
Yes. I know there are more popular cams now, but I really liked them when I ran them before, and they weren't even timed right, lol. They have an aggressive idle, but other than that, I thought they were a really nice running cam. If they don't make the power I want, I will switch them out for the latest/greatest down the road, but I tend to think I will be happy with them.
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Old Jun 4, 2009 | 06:55 PM
  #89  
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From: digging for oil
nice work dsevo
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Old Jun 4, 2009 | 06:57 PM
  #90  
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Originally Posted by crcain
Lookin' good.
Originally Posted by apagan01
nice work dsevo
Thanks guys. Tell me that when it actually runs though.
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